Stillen Air to Air setup

thangcu35

Vertical will have higher flow, less psi drop, but doesnt cool air temp as effective as horizontal. It is more suitable for efficient compressor running lower boost. If heat is the major factor robbing power in the tune, going for the horizontal style will yield better results.

synolimit

I didn't read the whole thread but your drawing looks good. Only thing is I've gone blow through before as many others have too. It's can be a tricky tune and most tuners hate it!

But ecutech seems to have speed density out now so I'd do that vs blow through if it was me.

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TopgunZ

I just found an old thread in this section where this has been a subject since summer of 2012 and some of you guys in here are still at it.

Have we been working on this for 3 years with no success? Maybe there's aspects I'm overlooking.

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Masterbeatty

IMO it sounds like people are polishing a cannon ball. You can only polish it so much. Some things need to be refined but the stillen kit seems to have the best results when left alone and just upgrade other parts of the car. I know car enthusiasts as a whole like to push the envelope and that's who we are. But maybe work on efficiency and not so much re-engineering the existing kit.

I have heard people pumping R134a through S/C heat exchangers, and we have already seen bigger heat exchangers used in success.

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Masterbeatty journal

TopgunZ

I think if this turns air to air it will rack up a "W". There is no reason it wouldn't. This V3 has been used on numerous platforms and with many a2a with success. Ive just seen that even Sasha from BP has been on this project for 3 years and that guy is a fab king.

The reason this kit has power envy is because it is a combo of heat and maf placement. So, move to a2a and move the mafs. I know, simple right? But why hasn't anyone done it yet?

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EVOHUNTER

Me and sasha have gone back and forth, but honestly haven't really done anything as of now, Hes extremely busy and so am I. its always worked out where the tuners we fly in don't line up with our project.

But Speciality z is coming down end of Aug, Sashas on vacation tell about aug 20th I think he said.

Ill be dropping my car off around the 20th of aug, And tuned by the 30th of aug.

Im only doing this to see how it works, next year im going with the BP kit and his new big turbo, along with a built motor which is in progress now.

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TopgunZ

Oh nice. Yes, we are all busy. Why does real life have to get in the way of our fun!!

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TopgunZ

Just picked up a Treadstone intercooler. Bottom in Top out. That and my kit should all arrive early next week. Then once I have it all I will figure out how to route the piping and order that next week also.

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TopgunZ

So looking at Bypass valves. Seen Tial makes one now and I have always had great results with them. But they come in 1" and 1.5" outlets. Any suggestions or reasons for going with a certain size?

Also going with the 11lb spring based off my 17hg vacuum reading.

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thangcu35

Just go with the bigger outlet for more flow. The 1" is more convenient for certain oem setups that have a 1" adapter. If you have blow through MAF, place the bypass valve far away from MAF housing preferably before intercooler to reduce driveability issues. Do you not have to bypass air at idle with a SC? Tial has a spring for SC setups and it opens at low vacuum.

silencedeyes

3lb spring would work better for low vac / bypass purposes. I don't think it will bypass enough with that heavy of a spring. Do you plan on plumbing it into the s/c intake for filtered air or adding another filter setup?

Im also starting Andrew's 370 this week end. Ive developed some safety systems on the scavenge system including a setup to use a turbo timer on both car and scavenge pump. I may ditch my electric pump and do a gear driven pump using the a/c compressor location.

TopgunZ

This is the one I am talking about. They don't even offer a 3lb spring. I can't find much information on how a bypass is different than a BOV. I know the difference in their intended purpose but as far as the mechanical construction of them, I am not sure. Besides the fact that it is a directed dump vs. 360* dump what is the difference? Can you use a BOV if you wanted?

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...l+Bypass+Valve

I am dumping to atmosphere pre-intercooler. No filter since it will be blowing any debris away and can not ingest anything.

Good call on putting in a safety setup for that pump. I still have the oil pan spacer and a fitting for you.

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victorofhavoc

I think he was referring to something like the synchronic diverter valve, which actually open at vacuum so that air can have a shorter route for greater response. Genius actually, but for a supercharger i don't see the use. The annoying lag and slow response of a turbo I get though...

the only time you'd want recirc is to keep your car from leaning out too much when not on boost. Pre-intercooler, post, or even on it I don't see as making that much of a difference, except for maybe putting it post to make sure your pressure drop across the intercooler isn't as much of a factor in tuning...or at least that's what was explained to me before.

At 20 psi 1" diameter means there's 15.7 pounds of pressure on the valve, and at 1.5" there's 35.33 pounds. 1" and 11 lb spring is 14.013 psi. 1.5" and 11 lb spring is 6.227 psi. So when do you want it to vent is the question?

EDIT: This is all provided i didn't jack up my math somewhere...I've been paged out for work twice in the middle of the night this week so my math may not be trustworthy until the weekend

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silencedeyes

Aaron, youre thinking in terms of turbo. Yes a bov is similar to a bypass valve. But you need a smaller spring pressure to allow equalization of air pre and post s/c at off boost situations (cruise and idle) or you'll get cavitation.

Another thing with your air to air setup, be careful of psi drop across the board with the core and all that piping. Remember you s/c wont compensate for it like a waste gated turbo will (or well mask it to some degree). You say 14psi is that at the compressor? If it is, it will be less at the manifold. IMO, I would run a smaller pulley to compensate for the psi drop and a waste gate ( on the charge pipe) to control the amount of "boost" you want.

Check out this link for your bypass valve. http://tialsport.com/index.php/tial-...vs/47-tialbvqr

TopgunZ

So why hasn't anyone ran the 2.62" pulley yet?

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