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Originally Posted by JWillis72 I am changing mine to air to air with 1000cc injectors( they stopped making 850cc), long tube headers, GTR plugs, 928 impeller and Stillen 9 lb
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#1 (permalink) | |
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always buy the pulleys. Bring them to the dyno, and switch as you need. This is what ill be doing, I've paid for an extra hour on the dyno for this reason. aswell as other unforeseen issue that arise.
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#2 (permalink) | |
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In my opinion, the front serpentine pulley should be the last one to downsize. It has the least amount of belt wrap (around 30%). The rear pulleys have over 50% wrap, a belt that is less likely to stretch under load, and are affected less by bracket-flex. For the sake of minimizing belt-slip, it makes more sense to increase S/C rpms by changing the ratio of the rear pulleys or going with cogs. Or even take it a step further and upsize the front pulley to a high-traction 3.3". When people start pushing this upgraded kit, the next road block is probably going to be belt-slip.
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#4 (permalink) |
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I have them all on the way here and might do just that. I most likely will not decide until I see what you two do on the dyno. I hope you both make big numbers!
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#6 (permalink) |
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I'm having a brace built for mine to try to cut down on slipping but you make a good point, maybe I will do the back side a wait on the Stillen 9 lb pulley. Honestly I want do just do it all and say F it but I know that's probably not a good idea. That will probably still be 11-12 lbs.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Remember, by going a2a we will realize more pressure drop than the original design. Probably about 1 to 1.5 psi.
Yes im on a built motor. Pushed my dyno back a week. So im on for the 22nd. Sunday I built a pool slash hot tub in my driveway. A truck and a shop vac have dual purpose.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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#14 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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But what about belt slip?
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