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Stillen Air to Air setup

Originally Posted by JWillis72 I am changing mine to air to air with 1000cc injectors( they stopped making 850cc), long tube headers, GTR plugs, 928 impeller and Stillen 9 lb

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Old 08-05-2015, 07:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JWillis72 View Post
I am changing mine to air to air with 1000cc injectors( they stopped making 850cc), long tube headers, GTR plugs, 928 impeller and Stillen 9 lb pulley. I'm trying to decide if should add the pulleys on the back side or wait and see how it goes first.


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See where your at when your at the dyno, Honestly, it takes 10 minutes to remove the belt/blower. couple more mins to switch the pulleys. You could
always buy the pulleys. Bring them to the dyno, and switch as you need.

This is what ill be doing, I've paid for an extra hour on the dyno for this reason.
aswell as other unforeseen issue that arise.
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JWillis72 View Post
I am changing mine to air to air with 1000cc injectors( they stopped making 850cc), long tube headers, GTR plugs, 928 impeller and Stillen 9 lb pulley. I'm trying to decide if should add the pulleys on the back side or wait and see how it goes first.


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In my opinion, the front serpentine pulley should be the last one to downsize. It has the least amount of belt wrap (around 30%). The rear pulleys have over 50% wrap, a belt that is less likely to stretch under load, and are affected less by bracket-flex.

For the sake of minimizing belt-slip, it makes more sense to increase S/C rpms by changing the ratio of the rear pulleys or going with cogs. Or even take it a step further and upsize the front pulley to a high-traction 3.3".

When people start pushing this upgraded kit, the next road block is probably going to be belt-slip.
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I like the way you think!
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have them all on the way here and might do just that. I most likely will not decide until I see what you two do on the dyno. I hope you both make big numbers!


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Old 08-05-2015, 07:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm going to Sebring Oct 3-4 to give this set up a track test.


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Old 08-05-2015, 08:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm having a brace built for mine to try to cut down on slipping but you make a good point, maybe I will do the back side a wait on the Stillen 9 lb pulley. Honestly I want do just do it all and say F it but I know that's probably not a good idea. That will probably still be 11-12 lbs.


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Old 08-05-2015, 08:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My kit is seeing 10.5psi with the Stillen 9 lb pulley and test pipes.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My kit is seeing 10.5psi with the Stillen 9 lb pulley and test pipes.
What whp/tq are you getting?
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Remember, by going a2a we will realize more pressure drop than the original design. Probably about 1 to 1.5 psi.

Yes im on a built motor.

Pushed my dyno back a week. So im on for the 22nd.

Sunday I built a pool slash hot tub in my driveway. A truck and a shop vac have dual purpose.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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What whp/tq are you getting?
426WHP 336TQ
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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426WHP 336TQ
Did you ever dyno it on the 8lb pulley? I'm getting 418/312 on the stock Stillen set up but I am also at sea level + 10-20.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I think it was 8.6-8.7, I have a AFR/ boost gauge but the boost is on the outside dial part so I don't pay a lot of attention to it.
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I think it was 8.6-8.7, I have a AFR/ boost gauge but the boost is on the outside dial part so I don't pay a lot of attention to it.
Words never said by a turbo guy. One of the benefits to having your boost set by the pulley size
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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But what about belt slip?
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:54 AM   #15 (permalink)
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But what about belt slip?
Belt slip? It's a toothed belt
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