Possible fueling issues?

phunk

Id be curious to see the o2 compensation without engine speed on the scale... I think its making the scale too large to see anything useful on the O2 graphs

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DIGItonium

Torque wrench is a bit of a crappy one lol. The gasket is brand new. I took it off Monday night to examine it, and I didn't see any issues. As for the manifold, I didn't see anything either. I do recall the tech who installed my kit used silicone grease since it was what I cleaned off. Last night was when I re-installed it.

At this point I don't know what to do anymore. It sounds like an expensive mess. I can do everything else, but the intake manifold has been a nightmare.

Is it pretty useless to log with #1 bolt broken off?

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phunk

Something is fishy because its just not that sensitive of a situation. I just clean the surface off and wipe off the oring gasket, set it on, and torque it however... I dont focus much on sequence and ive never once torqued it to any spec other than what just felt right. Makes me wonder if your manifold has a crack.

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DIGItonium

I sorta wondered since the car was having some issues. It's running so much better now other than this problem with the intake manifold. I did what you described, but I was being super careful by hand tightening the bolts and then lightly tighten it at 5 ft-lbs. The ends tightened up first. I guess it's time to get a new one. Ugh... expensive mess. I'd rather leave it in the hands of a pro like yourself at this point.

I don't enjoy the hobby enough to work on the engine.

[EDIT] I guess I'll have to pull stuff apart again. A couple of friends will come take a look and will try to get the broken bolt out. Once that is done I'll order a new intake manifold, bolts, and possibly new gaskets. If I can get to the lower bolts on the throttle bodies removal won't be as difficult.

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Ill

Oh man oh man that sounds horrible!

We have been back and forth in PMs discussing both our problems, sorry you're still having issues.

I messaged Sh0velman a few days ago on Facebook about a way to set up and finally instal my dual Oil catch can system, I can send you the plans if you would like, it's a lot less intrusive then I imagined. Figured you would find it interesting because of your oil blow by.

Keep up updated

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Old - GTM TT Stage 1 - 487whp / 415wtrq - bunch of goodies.

New - 2011 Shelby GT500 - 2.3L VMP TVS - JLT CAI.

DIGItonium

@Ill I already have the cans installed, and it seems to work pretty well. I rigged up a bracket and installed on the driver side of the coolant reservoir. I'll further reinforce it with an L bracket later.


Everything has been great so far other than this nightmare of an issue. I'm just tired. After getting the broken bolt out I need to put the car aside to find time and funds to sod my yard again. Man it never ends lol.

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Rusty

Don't feel bad. I took my motorhome in for state inspection. I got hit with a $4,800.00 bill. Both front axle inner wheel seals are bad. The bushings on the sway bars need replace. And on the motor. The clutch fan needs replaced. That alone is half the bill. Thankfully I don't need tires. That would be around $5,000 for 6 of them. Plus I need it back for the weekend of the 26th. I got to grab all of the overtime I can now.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

phunk

Next time you mess with it, I would like to see a video of the problem you are trying to resolve - it might help to see it.

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DIGItonium

I'm trying to find someone to help me get the broken bolt removed, and then assess whether I can still use the lower manifold. Regardless, I'm going to have to remove the intake manifold for further inspection and make room to drill out the broken bolt.

Here's food for thought. I talked to Juan@Fontana about the gasket adapters looking different, and it's because the old part number was 14032-JK20A, and the new one is 14032-JK21A. I don't mind that, but the gaskets aren't exactly alike! Not only did the color change from orange to grey, the gaskets look and feel a bit different (feels slightly thinner?). The contacting edge of the new gasket tapers to a sharp edge, and the original looked rounder and wider. I noticed the same with the TB gaskets.

Below is a cropped image. The left is my intake manifold and new gasket, and the right is from another member.

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phunk

Did the bolt break off flush or is anything sticking out? Since the bolt broke rather than tearing out the threads, its possible that the threads are totally fine and it will come out without too much trouble. The front-most bolt is also a thru-bolt (the hole passes through the entire lower manifold flange), making it easier to work with.

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DIGItonium

It's a clean break. When it broke, I barely got to turn it by 15 degrees since I was being real careful. Total shaft length of the broken bolt is 56mm, so that's where it ended. It's not the front most bolt (one with exposed post). It's the next one down on the passenger side.

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phunk

Ah ya I cant tell if that would leave anything sticking out of the LIM to grab onto or not. Probably not enough to matter if anything at all.

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DIGItonium

@phunk. No problem. The others look "dry" in the same area. Glad I was able to remove the rest of the bolts. I'm tossing them out for new ones. For some reason I'm not confident about the new gasket, and I already tossed the old ones. I can try to seal the bottom and add some water to see if it leaks, but if it's hairline there's no telling.

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jwick

FWIW I have the grey/black gasket and no upper to lower intake manifold sealing issues.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

DIGItonium

Below is a short video I made today. Please note that ALL 6 BOLTS were REMOVED. It is not a completely accurate test, but it goes to show you that even with the bolts in place engine would bog if I spray TB cleaner underneath the passenger side of the intake manifold. This video pretty much recreates that response, and it also shows how well the engine runs before fully warming up and idle hunting.

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