Currently running FI test pipes.

I have always just run a single wideband, and any time I am on the dyno I will put the dyno wideband on the opposite side just to double check. But for what you are trying to diagnose, both sides might be more helpful.

Don't those have the bungs in them already?

Yea, the O2 sensors are installed to the TPs. Hmm... this is turning into some really good discussion.

I'm going to change and examine the spark plugs while doing some maintenance work. Then I'll get the leak test done and fix any potential leaks. After all is said and done (and hopefully the car still runs), I'll try to see if I can peek at the exhaust manifolds on the next oil change. I'll keep you guys posted in a month or so.

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Although I can go for something simpler and cheaper, I'm just holding out for something I hope is more useful and permanent. Tuners, please chime in on what you prefer to have handy:

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I tried to get some logs last night. In the test run at full throttle I can smell a little bit of raw fuel. Earlier I tried sniffing around the engine bay, and I faintly smell raw fuel from the back of the engine on the passenger side. Isn't that were the evap lines are? I don't see anything.

There's an evap line on the back passenger side, clipped to the intake manifold. Maybe a cracked or disconnected line?

I'll take another look at the evap line tonight, but I don't remember seeing any residue. It's pretty faint at idle. At this point I can feel the heat.

I doubt there would be residue, it would just be fuel vapor, right?

cracked manifolds smell like gas because exhaust is leaking right out, or blown out gaskets in the turbo system. If the manifolds have been on the car more than a couple years, and have lots of miles, chances are really really good they are cracked.

I think you're spot on. It's literally nothing like the fuel leaks in the Z32. HA!

Makes sense. 45k miles on the kit, and it's about 3 years now. At the cost of replacing the CHRA, I might as well sell them and get my hands on the GTX pair and consider switching to external wastegates. It's a lot to chew on... just hoping I can put it off at least a couple of years out.

You can and will wash your rings running it overly rich due to the cracked manifolds..

I finally started prepping the car last night by dropping the bumper and removing the engine cover. I may try to do a leak test first and am looking for a couple of approaches: smoke test or pressurizing the intake. After doing some reading I'm thinking about plugging the intake tubes before the throttles, removing both intake filters and plugging one of them to test one side first. From there I can feed smoke to the system or pressurize it and listen for leaks.

I was thinking about making a home-made smoke generator using a sealed container in which I can drop in something to generate the smoke. The lid will have 2 lines: one feeding the intake system, and the other to a hand pump.

Is this logical enough?

You could just unbolt the heat shields so you can see the exhaust manifolds and rule that out ...

True. I popped off the oil cap. Fuel smell is stronger. Recent oil change was about 2-3 weeks ago. It definitely runs pig rich. An annoying diesel Ford drive tried to race me the other day. I gave it the 3-4 shift and let off immediately, and there's this crazy loud backfire. I wonder if it shot flames since it scared the driver to the point he started driving civil afterwards. :)

I just started taking a look at the car after dropping the bumper. I straightened the FMIC fins and pulled some gravel out. The BOVs are pristine, and the FMIC pipes are clean as well. I haven't scheduled with anyone to help me to a leak test, but I plan to get some stuff ordered this week.
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