Car is at the tuners shop now and I emailed him the link to the thread LOL. Thx for all the help guys, hopefully he comes back with good news.

i had this exact same issue. Had this bracket installed that Nut_n_much referred to; works like a charm:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...Z/IMG_1289.jpg

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...Z/IMG_1287.jpg

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...Z/IMG_1286.jpg

Great guess, it was BOTH! My tuner just called me back he said tensioner was bent and the pulley is being shimmed at the machine shop. Once he tests everything, I will report back here.

He will have to clearance the timing plate cover to allow the tensioner pulley to spin freely. Use a file or grinding wheel, take 2 seconds.

PM'd you

Nothings bent or needs shimmed.
1. The bracket the Vortec Supercharger is mounted on bends when it gets bolted on to the face of the motor. The front of motor is not flat its concave.
2. Adjust it all you want on a bench when you mount it, the tension will change.
3. To get the tension set right the tentsioner pulley will hits the timing plate.
4. Yes you can cut a grove into the timing plate were the seam is to get clearance and it will not cause leak or damage your motor.
5. Tension Shaft isn't bent it flexes, grade 5 bolt; its just a bolt and nut holding a adjuster shaft that can't be access after Supercharger is mounted.
6. I used the same size COG as you did, then switched to the one Osirus shows you. I bolted it to a drill and uses a file to clearance it from the suspension bolt on the fender well.

This isn't an issue with the stock kit because pulleys and tensioner have 1/4 lip on them. I PM'd you my phone number give it to the shop if they need any help. I have done a lot of work on Stillen Kits.

Got it, texted you bro

Man I wish I had more. My laptop died last year and i lost a ton of the build. No matter. They call i can walk them threw it all. First three are Osiris.

1st one show's were he needs to clearance the block. I installed the SC 6 times before getting right tension. Install with belt little loose, as you tighten the bolts the plate will flex and tighten it all up.

The adjuster arm:
Once its all installed, start the car and adjust the arm as it idles. Get the belt to track to the front of car side of the pulley. When you get on the gas the SC will flex a little and belt tracks center under load.

Key to all of this is the support brace, the ones in home depot are to long, almost have to find Hex piece of aluminum and tap it out. Remember one side is Right Hand Threaded, one side is Left Hand Threaded. That way you turn the shaft and it adjusts, add lock nut at ends.

Hope this helps. Don't solder the MAF Extensions, changes the ohms. Need to cut a sheet of sheet metal and attach it to the inside of the front bumper and bend it up under the air filters. It does 2 things. Blocks rain and wet from going in filters. Also blocks direct air flow in the intake. MAF sensors are to close to the filters, when air is force in by wind it will cause a positive air flow. MAFs have hard time reading it and put car in limp mode.

When you dyno it, test it out. Put the fan in front of grill and turn it on high, you wont be able to get a baseline to start tuning from. Each pull will be different. The sheet metal blocks the force of the direct airflow and allows you to run consistent pulls to get your base line to tune from.


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If you want to increase cooling in the intercooler take off the stock lines and add AN 12 fittings. Change out the fittings on the water res, intercooler and run the thicker lines to and from the pump and heat exchanger and your good. Replacement fitting is an NPT to AN. Can't remember the size but threads need to match the brass fitting you take off.

Also use distilled water and add some water wetter from Redline, will help keep temps down and keep calcium build up out of your system.

If you want to go to the next level. Relocate your battery to the trunk and add a Half gallon aluminum tank. It sits in the battery box and run the lines out of the fire wall the same way you normally would. One to the res (lowest point on container) on from heat exchanger (highest point on container) This will allow you to drop ICE in the res and run a cooler charge to the motor. I did this and it was awesome!!!!

Nut, Great info man! All things I looked at to before I popped. Now that you mention it they did the same thing to my timing covers( Cut a grove) but there never could get the belt from chewing :/ So I took the cogs off and popped anyways :? The cooling tank can be found on any Mustang performance site, they make them for the SVT Cobra's

This time around I'm using GTM Kit. Should be fun.. I liked the larger heat exchanger you used, we got one for Kelly's car but ran out of time to put it on. He moved to Kentucky. The sheep got nervous day 1 :rofl2:.

Definatly wanna see that kit on the dyno when your done . They made a very good kit to bad they went :O

So much great info guys, thx you so much NUT. I couldn't find much about this issue before this thread which surprised me because I am sure lots of guys did this and ran into the belt problem but ended up giving up maybe.

How long did the effects of this last for before it got hot again?

+1 7AT Owner
I would get one run on the course then need fresh bag. I dropped a screen on the outlet, due to being a heat exchanger it got hot quickly. But, in the battery box you can set ice bags around the outside of the tank.

If i could do it again i would go with a smaller tank to provide more room for ice. On the outside you really need to put ice in bags. The main wiring harness sits on the left side of the battery box.

Thank comes with a drain plug some with a valve, i ran my drain down under the car. Key is getting that plastic stock reservoir out of the hot engine compartment. Not much air flow in the battery box but thats what the ice was for. Also the volume of water was more.