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Dynamat worth it ? - quoted $450 from audio shop

So I'm sick of hearing rattles since adding new exhaust and also sick of hearing this crazy loud road noise - I got a quote to have a audio shop

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Old 12-11-2014, 12:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Dynamat worth it ? - quoted $450 from audio shop

So I'm sick of hearing rattles since adding new exhaust and also sick of hearing this crazy loud road noise - I got a quote to have a audio shop use an entire roll of Dynamat in rear adding in panels as well and using 3m tape on anything possibly rattling. He says he has done this job several times on 370z before bc when installing audio it always rattles. He swears this will solve my rattling issue and will be able to actually have a phone call without holding my ear to hear the person talking lol I just think $450 is a lot for this but he said it's going to take atleast 5 hours of labor.. The good thing is the wife is paying half for my Xmas present so that helps - do you all think it's worth it for those who has done this ?
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Dynamat is overpriced. Look into Raamat. Also, the deadener is only half the battle. Look into some closed-cell foam over the deadener to really get your money's worth. I used Ensolite. Both are much cheaper than Dynamat. Also, it's really more of a DIY project if you want bang for the buck. It's tedious, but not hard.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Dynamat is overpriced. Look into Raamat. Also, the deadener is only half the battle. Look into some closed-cell foam over the deadener to really get your money's worth. I used Ensolite. Both are much cheaper than Dynamat. Also, it's really more of a DIY project if you want bang for the buck. It's tedious, but not hard.
Couldn't have said it any better myself.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dynamat Heavy!
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used some GTMat material (don't remember which flavor) that did a good job but I just wanted to get rid of some of the road noise and wasn't trying for a really quiet cabin.

I had my favorite body shop R&R the interior panels and I installed the material myself. As per Chuck33079, it's not a hard job if you have a good cutter and a small roller.

You'll want a louder exhaust once you install the sound-deadening.
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Old 12-11-2014, 02:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvdave04 View Post
So I'm sick of hearing rattles since adding new exhaust and also sick of hearing this crazy loud road noise -I got a quote to have a audio shop use an entire roll of Dynamat in rear adding in panels as well and using 3m tape on anything possibly rattling.
I had a local audio shop do this for me a few months ago. They used something other than Dynamat and IIRC wound up using more than the equivalent of one roll just in the rear (more in the doors, of course). I had no rattling issues prior to that. My bill ran more than your estimate, but is probably largely due to a smaller market with essentially no competition. I didn't watch the install, but they did keep the car overnight due to the time involved.

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Originally Posted by nvdave04 View Post
The good thing is the wife is paying half for my Xmas present so that helps - do you all think it's worth it for those who has done this ?
She sounds like a keeper! It was definitely worth it to me just to quieten the road noise. I'm very pleased with the results.

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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Also, it's really more of a DIY project if you want bang for the buck. It's tedious, but not hard.
This sounds right to me. If I had a younger back, I probably would have tried to tackle this one myself.

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You'll want a louder exhaust once you install the sound-deadening.
I also found this to be true, but it sounds like OP has already taken this step.
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I did mine myself. Not hard, but be prepared to spend 4-5 hours crouched in the back. It does help, but don't expect luxury car quiet. I can't imagine mine w/o it + my FI exhaust & cats. It would be deafening without the dynamat.
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i installed dynamat in my car and it does have a noticable change.

be sure to get a quality roller if you're going to install it yourself. mine is gray (maybe 2" width?) with a wooden handle.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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^ a tennis ball works pretty well too.

Years ago I bought 50 ft rolls of FatMat that lasted me forever. Similar stuff. Way cheaper than dynamatt.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've given up and found God. I'm going to rip out my GTMat (I don't recommend them because they fired one of our members) and I'm replacing it with high density gun case foam with either VHB or contact cement to hold it down. Definitely absorbs more road noise and weighs less overall.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
I've given up and found God. I'm going to rip out my GTMat (I don't recommend them because they fired one of our members) and I'm replacing it with high density gun case foam with either VHB or contact cement to hold it down. Definitely absorbs more road noise and weighs less overall.
Try a layer of thin closed cell foam over the deadener. It makes all the difference.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Try a layer of thin closed cell foam over the deadener. It makes all the difference.
Then I have the weight of both.


When I originally installed it I laid down a nice layer of Plastidip for a few reasons, I figured it would "fill in" the gaps where I couldn't lay down the GTMat, it would be a 100% layer without air pockets and such, and in case I ever had to remove the GTMat, it would be MUCH easier with the PD... (The way these sound deadened work is by taking away or minimizing tibre [someone correct the spelling] so the trunk is like a drum, and this is rubber absorbing the vibration. PD is rubber to absorb more vibration [in my mind])

Glad it paid off, now I'll take off the GTMat and lay down a new layer of PD then put the foam on the PD.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
Then I have the weight of both.


When I originally installed it I laid down a nice layer of Plastidip for a few reasons, I figured it would "fill in" the gaps where I couldn't lay down the GTMat, it would be a 100% layer without air pockets and such, and in case I ever had to remove the GTMat, it would be MUCH easier with the PD... (The way these sound deadened work is by taking away or minimizing tibre [someone correct the spelling] so the trunk is like a drum, and this is rubber absorbing the vibration. PD is rubber to absorb more vibration [in my mind])

Glad it paid off, now I'll take off the GTMat and lay down a new layer of PD then put the foam on the PD.
The foam weighs next to nothing. It's 1/8" thick and self adhesive.
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Old 12-11-2014, 05:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
I've given up and found God. I'm going to rip out my GTMat (I don't recommend them because they fired one of our members) and I'm replacing it with high density gun case foam with either VHB or contact cement to hold it down. Definitely absorbs more road noise and weighs less overall.
The point of adding mat is to add weight, thus less vibration...
I have used a few different types over the years, this is not something you want to cheap out on in your car, a lot, of the cheaper mats are asphalt based, STAY AWAY from them, in the summer they smell!
The best one I've used is Hush Mat, price is not cheap, but with mat, you get what you pay for. Very easy to install, other then my Z I use Hush Mat only. I was working for Streetwires at the time, so I had to use it, however it too was nice product to work with, but again, not cheap.
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