Dynamat worth it ? - quoted $450 from audio shop
 

So I'm sick of hearing rattles since adding new exhaust and also sick of hearing this crazy loud road noise - I got a quote to have a audio shop use an entire roll of Dynamat in rear adding in panels as well and using 3m tape on anything possibly rattling. He says he has done this job several times on 370z before bc when installing audio it always rattles. He swears this will solve my rattling issue and will be able to actually have a phone call without holding my ear to hear the person talking lol I just think $450 is a lot for this but he said it's going to take atleast 5 hours of labor.. The good thing is the wife is paying half for my Xmas present so that helps - do you all think it's worth it for those who has done this ?

Dynamat is overpriced. Look into Raamat. Also, the deadener is only half the battle. Look into some closed-cell foam over the deadener to really get your money's worth. I used Ensolite. Both are much cheaper than Dynamat. Also, it's really more of a DIY project if you want bang for the buck. It's tedious, but not hard.

Couldn't have said it any better myself.

Dynamat Heavy!

I used some GTMat material (don't remember which flavor) that did a good job but I just wanted to get rid of some of the road noise and wasn't trying for a really quiet cabin.

I had my favorite body shop R&R the interior panels and I installed the material myself. As per Chuck33079, it's not a hard job if you have a good cutter and a small roller.

You'll want a louder exhaust once you install the sound-deadening. ;)

I had a local audio shop do this for me a few months ago. They used something other than Dynamat and IIRC wound up using more than the equivalent of one roll just in the rear (more in the doors, of course). I had no rattling issues prior to that. My bill ran more than your estimate, but is probably largely due to a smaller market with essentially no competition. I didn't watch the install, but they did keep the car overnight due to the time involved.

She sounds like a keeper! It was definitely worth it to me just to quieten the road noise. I'm very pleased with the results.

This sounds right to me. If I had a younger back, I probably would have tried to tackle this one myself.

I also found this to be true, but it sounds like OP has already taken this step.

I did mine myself. Not hard, but be prepared to spend 4-5 hours crouched in the back. It does help, but don't expect luxury car quiet. I can't imagine mine w/o it + my FI exhaust & cats. It would be deafening without the dynamat.

i installed dynamat in my car and it does have a noticable change.

be sure to get a quality roller if you're going to install it yourself. mine is gray (maybe 2" width?) with a wooden handle.

^ a tennis ball works pretty well too.

Years ago I bought 50 ft rolls of FatMat that lasted me forever. Similar stuff. Way cheaper than dynamatt.

I've given up and found God. I'm going to rip out my GTMat (I don't recommend them because they fired one of our members) and I'm replacing it with high density gun case foam with either VHB or contact cement to hold it down. Definitely absorbs more road noise and weighs less overall.

Try a layer of thin closed cell foam over the deadener. It makes all the difference.

Then I have the weight of both.


When I originally installed it I laid down a nice layer of Plastidip for a few reasons, I figured it would "fill in" the gaps where I couldn't lay down the GTMat, it would be a 100% layer without air pockets and such, and in case I ever had to remove the GTMat, it would be MUCH easier with the PD... (The way these sound deadened work is by taking away or minimizing tibre [someone correct the spelling] so the trunk is like a drum, and this is rubber absorbing the vibration. PD is rubber to absorb more vibration [in my mind])

Glad it paid off, now I'll take off the GTMat and lay down a new layer of PD then put the foam on the PD.

The foam weighs next to nothing. It's 1/8" thick and self adhesive.

The point of adding mat is to add weight, thus less vibration...
I have used a few different types over the years, this is not something you want to cheap out on in your car, a lot, of the cheaper mats are asphalt based, STAY AWAY from them, in the summer they smell!
The best one I've used is Hush Mat, price is not cheap, but with mat, you get what you pay for. Very easy to install, other then my Z I use Hush Mat only. I was working for Streetwires at the time, so I had to use it, however it too was nice product to work with, but again, not cheap.

Very true, but I think the dynamat might be redundant with the foam

Not at all. Here's a better explanation from the website I got it from:

" this works in higher frequencies to reduce reflections by breaking up, diffusing the energy, decouples vibrations, and is a superb thermal barrier.The only place to limit the use is behind speakers, just use a patch 8x8" or so to break up the back wave, it is so effective more will just kill off the midbass response which is not what we want to acheive."

I've done cars with just dynamat, and the Z with both. It's by far better with the foam.

:iagree: See my avatar ;)

Yeah I'm pissed about that because their Onyx line seemed to be a pretty decent product. I did my hatch, but haven't done anything to the doors yet.

Wow thank you all for the great responses - this is all great info !

DEI's Boom-mat is cheaper than Dynomat and just as good.

+1 on Boom-mat. Works quite well in the back of my Z

+1 for dynamat... for no reason.

This is definately an easy DIY. Most of the cost is labor so just take an afternoon and do it yourself.

I got Buzzmat from my stereo installer and put it in myself. Then to top it off I stuffed some Roxul Safe'n'Sound into the voids behind the plastic trim. It made a huge difference. I only did the trunk and it good enough for me. If you do the work yourself it is easy enough to do it in steps till you decide what it is good enough. Don't however expect to get Lexus or Mercedes level of silence in your car it ain't going to happen.

My logic on the mat is acts as a deadner(dampner) to reduce the vibrations coming thru the skin of the car and the Roxul acts as a sound absorber. Anyways all I really know is that when I run through a puddle it dosen't sound like the water off the tires is coming right into the cabin now.

I would guess that whether you use Dynamat, Buzzmat, Boom-mat or whetever I doubt you could tell the diffference. they are all more or less the same a tar like substance on a foil backing.

I could probably still get you a decent price on a few sq ft for the doors if you want it. I'll be dropping by their office at the end of December.

to kick their face in? :ugh:

My Nismo rear hatch is all covered with dynamat from previous owner. So much quieter than my yellow touring Z. I guess it does work.

In my years in car audio, $ for $, better off spending on amplification rather than on damping material.

But sometimes you want to just talk to your passenger, not just rock out, lol

Damn the passenger must be pretty special for you on to want to talk to them ;)

Today is judgement day - I'm hoping I'm not making a bad investment - I think $250 is worth it bc my wife is paying for half for Xmas. It was this or stillen gen 3 - I'll wait to get gen 3 when I get my bonus in jan. Will see fingers crossed

cool, GL with your install.

read somewhere..used tennis ball to install? :ugh:
kinda like using pliers to loosen lugs. :ugh2:

A tennis ball might come in handy for a few spots (eg, doors) but, yeah, it wouldn't my first choice for most areas. A wooden roller was all I needed to do the rear towers and back.

yah, let's use the right tools...

I've never understood why everyone hates on asphalt base. Spending money on audio branded stuff is absurdly expensive.

Simple 'Peel n Seal' roofing from lowes/home depot works just as well. Yes it's asphalt base, no it's not intended for audio/dampening. It does NOT smell in summer, idk anyone who has had that issue. I live in Florida, it gets quite hot here with a black car, again, never had an issue. It's 100$ for 100 square feet (essentially 2 layers on the entire car).

Sealed my entire Z except the roof, A Pillars, and floor. With stock exhaust it was luxury car quiet inside. Now I have header back non res, not so quiet lol. Also have 3k watts of audio in the car. The only rattle in the car is a single bolt somewhere in my driver's door (which i can't seem to figure out).

Egg crate works well for a small patch behind speakers, increases the sq. I'm assuming gun foam would work the same or better, especially if it's a small layer on top of mat.

I used hands because I didn't have a roller, and I took a lot of time. Some people use a tenis ball basically to prevent hurting your hands over time. A roller doesn't work for a lot of areas imo.

Okay it deff improved and no rattles - but now it seems road noise is now isolated to the front through doors- he wanted another $400 to do doors and under seats- I would like to attempt my self- how hard is it to take off the doors and install ? Any how to guides out there ?

It's in the diy section
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...aker-size.html

As for putting the sound proofing in,sounds like a roller and something to get into hard to reach places?

because your car will smell like asphalt all summer if it gets hot. thats why

cause it smells like assfart.

Has anyone just put a stuffed amount of acoustic foam in the rear hatch area underneath the carpet? Then possibly topped with a thicker carpet or closed cell foam mat on top to block road noise from back there?

I'm wondering if this would make a difference or not if it was filled/stuffed in the open areas underneath.