Dynamat worth it ? - quoted $450 from audio shop

kenchan

cool, GL with your install.

read somewhere..used tennis ball to install?
kinda like using pliers to loosen lugs.

SouthArk370Z

A tennis ball might come in handy for a few spots (eg, doors) but, yeah, it wouldn't my first choice for most areas. A wooden roller was all I needed to do the rear towers and back.

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kenchan

yah, let's use the right tools...

ViCiouS

I've never understood why everyone hates on asphalt base. Spending money on audio branded stuff is absurdly expensive.

Simple 'Peel n Seal' roofing from lowes/home depot works just as well. Yes it's asphalt base, no it's not intended for audio/dampening. It does NOT smell in summer, idk anyone who has had that issue. I live in Florida, it gets quite hot here with a black car, again, never had an issue. It's 100$ for 100 square feet (essentially 2 layers on the entire car).

Sealed my entire Z except the roof, A Pillars, and floor. With stock exhaust it was luxury car quiet inside. Now I have header back non res, not so quiet lol. Also have 3k watts of audio in the car. The only rattle in the car is a single bolt somewhere in my driver's door (which i can't seem to figure out).

Egg crate works well for a small patch behind speakers, increases the sq. I'm assuming gun foam would work the same or better, especially if it's a small layer on top of mat.

I used hands because I didn't have a roller, and I took a lot of time. Some people use a tenis ball basically to prevent hurting your hands over time. A roller doesn't work for a lot of areas imo.

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nvdave04

Okay it deff improved and no rattles - but now it seems road noise is now isolated to the front through doors- he wanted another $400 to do doors and under seats- I would like to attempt my self- how hard is it to take off the doors and install ? Any how to guides out there ?

Merv

It's in the diy section
DIY: Door Panel Removal & Door Speaker Size

Merv

As for putting the sound proofing in,sounds like a roller and something to get into hard to reach places?

edub370

because your car will smell like asphalt all summer if it gets hot. thats why

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kenchan

cause it smells like assfart.

AdamRacer

Has anyone just put a stuffed amount of acoustic foam in the rear hatch area underneath the carpet? Then possibly topped with a thicker carpet or closed cell foam mat on top to block road noise from back there?

I'm wondering if this would make a difference or not if it was filled/stuffed in the open areas underneath.

scottIN

I think it would. Pretty sure someone stuffed a moving blanket in there and noticed a difference. And quietest my car has ever been was when I had a couple good size soft-sided coolers in the back. IMHO, the big thing is to keep the sound from bouncing off the glass and forward to the seats. The glass is like a perfect cone to send the sound forward. Not sure that it's as much of a decibel problem as it is a focus of the soundwaves problem.

SouthArk370Z

After I had the interior panels re-installed after installing the sound damping, but without spare/sub/carpet, the cabin was pretty noisy. The damping material helped a lot, but it was still noisier than no damping with spare/sub/carpet. Put everything back in the car and it was much quieter than without damping. So, yeah, I'd say that something like a thicker pad under the carpet would help.
You can install sound damping in the floor of the hatch area without doing any major dis-assembly of the interior. Should have the same (or better) effect than thicker pad/carpet. Covering the strut towers and wheel wells will do more good but you have to remove interior panels.

ScottIN is right about the back glass - great sound reflector. Nice if you have a Bose sub but terrible for road noise. Some internal louvers might help but there's not a lot you can do about it.

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AdamRacer

Thanks! I think I'm going to try just to see if it'll help a little. I've kinda gotten used to the road noise until I drive another car lol..

Zipper 104

I'm going to try to tackle over the winter.
I have NO experience with cars but worked building offices for years in buildings where we tried to keep noise from being transmitted to adjacent offices from audio/video/boardrooms, etc. Hence, I subscribe to the school that you use a layer of dampening material, a layer of close coupled foam, a layer of sound blocker and if you have the additional space, some sound absorber.
This is the site I found valuable.

Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown

My intentions are to do my install following this guy's methods. It remains to be seen what room I will have on the sides of the hatch and the doors. I see no issues with the hatch floor.
It looks as though I need at least 3/8".....more would be a luxury. The layer of absorber may wind up being deleted on the hatch sides and doors.

104

Tadpole

I have inquired in my area and it was 400 with hush mat for the door panels and rear hatch area. Its worth that price in my opinion.

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