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Orange peel clear
So I painted my VF-1 fenders to mostly match my car over the weekend. However botht hte color and the clear went on very orange-peely. I overlapped my wet coats by half the spray pattern like I read you are supposed to do, but it seemed dry, when I slowed down the side to side motion of the gun I would get pinholes indicating too thick of a film. Do I just have a shitty gun or am I doing something wrong? It's an HVLP gun, the air pressure was first set at 25 running PSI then bumped up to about 35 running PSI and that seemed to help a very small amount, but everything I read says not to go over 40 PSI so I didn't go any higher. I am wet sanding and polishing my fenders so not a big deal in regards to that but I would like to not have to do so much work when I paint my front bumper next weekend. Anyone have some tips on getting s smoother finish from my semi-cheap Ebay HVLP gun?
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what kind of paint are you using???
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Dupont premixed lacquer is the clear I'm using. read a few articles last night saying i might just need to turn up the pressure in my gun a bit higher and/or reduce the clear coat a bit more with some acetone.
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Pinholes can be caused by solvents on the surface. Are you prepping it correctly before you spray?
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im no expert on airbrush, but it sounds like your mist is too thick. try thinning it a little as you mentioned. im thinking it should be a fine but not super fine mist.
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Also I forgot to add humidity plays a big roll.
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Quote:
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I've read in other forums humidity affects orange peel as well, but not until its humid to the point of fog.and about the prepping, i don't have a tack rag but i cleaned the surface with acetone then water then a dry microfiber towel, there shouldn't have been anything left behind. I'll try thinning it out a bit more with acetone like i have seen suggested once i get to that point with my bumper.son't be for a qhile cuz i need to get these fenders done first. still sanding and buffing.
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Use a GOOD 2 part Dupont (3-1} OR reduce what you have and go with 3-4 LIGHT coats, let dry for 24hrs. Then sand with 1000 wet and repeat this 3 times. After the 3rd spraying, dry sand with 2000 then 2500 then buff. No pinholes , no orange peel and looks great.
Take your time and don't rush or else it will look like a 3rd grader did it. |
I was able to wet sand the fenders that I already sprayed so they are very close to perfect. Still need to polish one and buff/polish the other. I'm satisfied since it's my first time painting with anything but a rattle can.
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:tup:
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After doing all this it really makes me want to take on the task of changing colors... granted it would have to be a couple years from now once I make SSgt and can afford slightly better equipment. I've always wanted to do 2-tone with Daytona sunset orange on bottom and CF on top instead of just plain black... Oh, one more question that I know I should have mentioned earlier but kinda forgot... I know the air I'm using to spray should be dry... but do I need to put an inline water filter in or just periodically drain water from the compressor's reservoir?
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An inline filter would be preferable ! If not eventually some moisture is going to make it to and threw your Gun !
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You absolutely MUST have a dryer, or filter inline. I use two, one at the compressor, and a disposable one at the gun. I have sprayed 3 cars with a $15 HVLP gun from H.freight and they came out extremely well. I had to keep the pressure at 55-60 psi.. I bought it to spray my work beater, and when my daughter and her BF saw it, They wanted theirs done as well. I also got the inline filter there, for about $3.00.
Prep is extremely important, and be sure to follow your flash times. |
Ya you want to make sure there is no solvent on the surface when you spray. some prefer to not have any even near the paint booth or area.
Can you post some pics please? |
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