i am having problems with my fog lamp wiring. i have used the power and ground from the heated seat switches in my center console and wired them directly into an L.E.D. rocker switch in the center. from there i ran the power back to the fog light, my car has the harness in the back so i was able to use that ground. my problem is my switch keeps blowing so i have gone through two. is there too much amprage going to the switch from the fog light bulb? or am i just not using the right kind of switch?

Probably got a short somewhere.

The fog bulb is like a wedge 5w or something small. Shouldn't need anymore than a 1A fuse.

I like those rocker switches....I'm not sure which one to get I need a 3-position switch for my Blinder M27 Jammer. Could you guys help me with the selection?

I want to try to hook up a switch for a garage door opener. I think it may be easier and cheaper than adding home link to my base.

If you ever do this, I'm sure many (including myself) would love a DIY thread on it. It seems pretty basic but I haven't really any knowledge of circuitry. The idea i guess would be to hide the circuit board of an extra remote and hardwire it to a switch while tapping the power from an accessory wire?

why dont you do it right and get a homelink mirror? much cleaner install.

if you were to do the ghetto way, you just need a normally-open momentary switch and your PCB + battery from your garage door opener. the circuit with battery will remain on b-surface and you just wire your momentary switch to where the opener's original switch was and just push the button.

nothing really to it, actually.

Looks great, almost OEM, but they come out a little too much for my taste.

really? it's a very clean install. :)

although i wouldn't mind getting 3 nissan OEM push switches if anyone has them. :D

well the primary reason would be due to costs and the fact that a homelink mirror is much more expensive than wiring up a switch that base model owners already have a console for (because of no seat heaters) and personally i have two extra remotes since all the other cars at home have homelink mirrors. just my 2 cents..

I think the home link mirror is kind of expensive and the base model already has the spots for these switches. I did a little bit of research and it sounds like kenchan is right. If you have a remote that uses a 12V battery, it can be wired straight into a 12V acc line on the car for power. Then you just need to wire up a momentary switch and you're all set. The flash2pass system also sounds interesting because it would be convienient for my R6 too. If I do set this up I'll be sure to post a "how to".

most garage door opener remotes are 9v though... and its battery lasts pretty much forever so just use a battery and no need to hook up to the car battery.

Garage Door Opener on the console
 

First a quick shout out to MJ for posting the original info/website for these switches! I did a lot of searching, both locally and on the web, to find a good looking switch that would complement the interior of my Z and came up empty till I found your thread. Thanks!!

Unlike the others on this thread I decided to go with the MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn switches in the left and right hand slots and the On-Off-On switch in the center. Both types of switches can be purchased from the link that MJ gave by hitting the drop down menu on that site.

The momentary switches were necessary as the purpose I had in mind was for the Garage door opener :)

I've never been a fan of the homelink rearview mirrors for their looks and the ergonomics. A personal thing I realize, but since my Nismo didn't have the factory option of the homelink mirror and we had some blank button slots to play with anyway it just seemed natural to go there.

Anyhoo... getting down to brass tax. I pulled the cup holder straight up and the whole mini console that it is attached to popped right off no issues. Here's a shot of the console with all my supplies ready to go...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaser...108AYtm7do3Zsy

You'll see that I've already removed the circuit board from my 3 button garage door opener.

The dummy switches are pulled out from the bottom side of the console. You can use a sturdy flat screw driver to bend the plastic tabs out of the way on the back and push the fake buttons through. Super easy.

In order to determine where I needed to attach my switches/wires to the garage door opener board I simply did a little trial and error using a small wire to short circuit connections on the back of the board opposite of the mini-momentary switches on the other side. Here's a close up of my circuit board after I've soldered my three connections. Note that I'm only hooking up 2 of the 3 garage door buttons as we only have 2 doors :) Also, I'm using the same ground wire for both buttons. Thus, three wires...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaser...108AYtm7do3Zsy

In this next shot you'll see the switches installed in the console and the circuit board wired to them. The replacement switches simply drop-in from above. Like the others in this thread, I rounded the corners of the outside (left and right) switches off a bit as well using a small file to get a better fit.

Because I opted for the mom-off-mom switches and I've only got the two garage doors to operate I simply use both momentary positions of my switches for the same door. In other words, I can press down on either side of the switch to operate the door. My left mom-off-mom switch operates one garage door and the right one operates the other. This is why you see a wire loop between poles on each switch. Also, there was no point in wiring more than one ground (and my soldiering skills are less than stellar) which is why you'll see one wire going from the board ground to one switch and then looping over to the other.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaser...108AYtm7do3Zsy

I'm currently not using the middle on-off-on switch. TBD in the future :)

I really like the way these three way switches sit with a low profile. Also, the finish on the switches fit the Z interior perfectly...in fact, they fit it better than the dummy switches provided by Nissan IMHO.

You'll see in this next picture that I simply stashed the circuit board under the center console. Nothing fancy there. Just be careful not to interfere with the operation of the parking brake.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaser...108AYtm7do3Zsy

Finally, a couple of glamor shots to finish.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaser...108AYtm7do3Zsy

slightly different angle..
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaser...108AYtm7do3Zsy

Finally, one last thanks to those that came before me!

I won't have to leave my new baby out in the rain again...
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaser...108AYtm7do3Zsy

looks like my center console. :D

i just got a home link mirror for the garage door but looks good. :tup:

Nice job. If only I had a automatic garage door.

Cool! Nice job.

Excuse the basic question, but when wiring these consule switches do you fuse the line from the tapped power to the switch, the line to the accessory/lighting, or both?

I was taught to always put the fuse close as possible to the power source.

Thanks tranceformer! That's what I thought, too, but came across something on another thread that got me confused.

when i wired up the rear fog i used the power going to the 12v socket (removed the socket itself cause i dont use it anyway...just 2 screws). this means it is fused at the fusebox next to your deadpedal. that's close enough. :p

Thanks Ken. I'm going to tap into the power for the other 12v outlet under the armrest for this mod. I plan to put an inline fuse right after the splice (with a 2a fuse), then wire to a heated seat switch mounted between the existing switches. "High" will go to the flashing mode of the EVO-R fog light, "Low" will activate the solid on function. Using 16 gauge wire for everything. Let me know if you see any problems with that plan!

professordave- sounds good. i think you might be interested in wiring up a rearview camera and HU if you're going to be taking apart the center console and trunk liner for this install. :p might even suggest dynamatting the trunk floor too while the liner's out.

maybe even paint the amber bulbs in the taillamp silver to rid the eggyoke?

or maybe even wire up a sub-amp?

how about doing coilovers while the liner's out and make a damper setting extender access?

or ... :D

it's going be a busy week for you, professordave! :icon17:

:icon18:
I'm not much of an audiophile, so I won't be doing some of those!

I considered the dynamat right up until I got my exhaust. Now I want to hear the noise!

Sorry to bump this thread but it seems like the website changed its URL.

Are these the correct ones?
Full Size Rocker Switches - Wiring Products