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2011 370z with body problems

For the rear left bumper area it's very likely to be the BRACKET-REAR BUMPER SIDE,LH, Nissan part # 85013H, about $30 give or take. If the bumper is bumped hard

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Old 06-17-2014, 11:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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For the rear left bumper area it's very likely to be the BRACKET-REAR BUMPER SIDE,LH, Nissan part # 85013H, about $30 give or take. If the bumper is bumped hard enough in the right spot (perhaps by the previous owner) the plastic bracket that pulls the bumper close to the body will stay in place, but partially crack and slightly drift away from the body and end up looking like your bumper. See the attached pics for an example where the plastic around one of the connecting bolts broke off. You can access this part without fully removing the bumper, just remove all the bolts and snaps on the LH side of the car and the snap just below the rear fog and you can get enough clearance. If you want to be really careful you can remove the entire bumper, it just takes longer.

For a second view, take a look at NickTurnon's car below (see his build link here NickTurnon's 370z Build). On his silver Z the bracket is white in color. You can see where the bracket is located here:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Nissan 85013H Pic 1.jpg (492.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Nissan 85013H Pic 2.jpg (541.8 KB, 9 views)
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The sill cover may have more going on. If you look carefully, the gap between the door and metal body panel looks like it narrows a decent amount and there isn't a lot you can do about that. See the attached pictures to get an idea of what the gap should look like from the factory. Can you open the door and take a few photos where the door sill meets the metal body panel?
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File Type: jpg Nissan door to sill cover gaps Pic 1.jpg (466.0 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Nissan door to sill cover gaps Pic 2.jpg (392.5 KB, 12 views)
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Alrighty, Sorry for the delay. Weekend after weekend just have not been able to do this project. 100% going to tackle this project tomorrow "sunday"
Thank you nevada3 for your input. I am hoping this is not the problem I am facing but it sure looks like it. Will have to see when I take this panel off.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yay! All done. Was pretty easy to fix the side panel. Just needed to some new 3M tape in one area. The other spot towards the back of the panel the two clamps that hold it in place where broken off. Not sure how the hell that happen. That is why that part sticks out a little. It looks a little better.









Now on the the other area. The rear corner panel. This one I can not fig out why its not holding. After taking it a part to get access to the plastic clamp thing. It was not damaged at all. No cracking, all the hooks where fine. Nothing on it was broken. I do not understand why its not holding it correctly. I am thinking I will order a new one and see if that will correct it. I do not know. I took better angle picture.

This is the damaged side.

and compared to the normal side.






Also while I had the car jacked up I took a look under to see if everything looked normal. All was good till I saw this:




What could have caused that?
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:25 PM   #20 (permalink)
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curb hopped(accident) / scrapped over an island?
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:28 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Does your steer wheel vibrate when you go really fast like 70 -80 mph?
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:32 PM   #22 (permalink)
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everything drives normal. Only had the car for 2 months, so it was the previous owner that did this. Just want to make sure this isn't something that will be a problem.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Strip out the trunk area and take some pics of the floorpan area and seams with spare and polystyrenes removed.

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Old 07-07-2014, 10:27 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I would imagine the body flexes more with it mangled like that. That sucks op, I would replace that cross member. take it too a shop to have them search for more damage and a quote to fix.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:31 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masterbeatty View Post
I would imagine the body flexes more with it mangled like that. That sucks op, I would replace that cross member. take it too a shop to have them search for more damage and a quote to fix.
Crap, thanks masterbeatty
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:07 AM   #26 (permalink)
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had the issue with panel alignment too on my 09 in guam. It was so bad that it was actually chipping and squeezing out paint from in between the panels and causing peeling. had to take it to nissan and have it repainted and the front and rear bumper re aligned. the 13 doesnt have this issue so far. It cost me money too, even though the car was only a year old nissan claimed it wasnt covered under warranty. Another reason for my long list ive mentioned not to allow them to touch your car.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:44 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Glad to see you easily fixed the side skirt. Two things to check on the rear bumper:

1) Look inside the trunk where the black bracket bolts connect to the sheet metal. It is possible one or more of the bolts isn't all the way in causing the bracket (and by extension the bumper) to sit a little further away from the rest of the body. It will be obvious if one of them isn't seated properly, they are either fully locked into place or they aren't locked into place. If all of the bolts are fully extended into the body and the trunk area, inspect the sheet metal immediately surrounding the bracket bolts. Sometimes the sheet metal can be bent outwards just where the bolt attaches to the body causing a similar affect seen in your photos.

2) If everything checks out above, check the positioning of the tail lamp. If the tail lamp is not fully pushed forwards (towards the drivers seat) the bottom of the tail lamp can prevent the bumper from seating properly and slightly push it out, similar to what you have going on. Check this as well.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:03 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks again nevada3, I will recheck those areas.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Finally was able to working in dropping my car off with my mechanic yesterday to look at the cross member. Good news is that there isn't other damage he could find, the no brainer part is that ya, need to replace the cross member. Leaving it like that could cause more stress and wear on the tires.
Trying to find a DIY thread on it. Not having any results. Is this something that is easily done? Looks like a simple bolt on and off. Any help on replacing this would be greatly appreciated.

*no idea how much he is going to charge me yet. He is still looking for the part. Will know by Monday on how much.

Last edited by Vorttam; 07-26-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 07-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I have the same issue and it drives me crazy but I should have my new body kit in the next few days so hopefully it won't be an issue any more. I also have a 2011
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