Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   RobiSpec Harness Bar - Where to buy? (http://www.the370z.com/exterior-interior/84290-robispec-harness-bar-where-buy.html)

redline10000 11-11-2014 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1cleanZ (Post 3028215)
I actually completely disagree. The bar was very well engineered for this not to happen. All of the forces being applied to the bolts are in sheer, and the steel is 350mpa CDW roll cage tubing. If the lower bolts (M8, 130mm long, grade 12) and the spacers are used, the bar physically cannot pivot downward. Also, bolts actually replace OEM mounting points of the support bar to the frame(strongest points of the car), zero drilling/modifying needed.

Here are a few photos in the raw of the actual connection points. You'll see that they do not go into the "support bar" which is very thin which is not recommended to support harnesses, rather they go into the actual supporting joints to hold in the support bar which are much thicker. Also, they bar goes back far enough to fully be prevented from rotating downward in the event of an accident, so all of this talk about it rotating around in the event of an accident, is irrelevant.





Take a peak at the difference between the bar you posted and this one in the same raw stage. The bar is solid from end to end, and comes backward with sheer connection points focused on quality and safey.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ps34c4c2cf.jpg

That does look much better can't deny that.

synolimit 11-11-2014 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1cleanZ (Post 3028215)
I actually completely disagree. The bar was very well engineered for this not to happen. All of the forces being applied to the bolts are in sheer, and the steel is 350mpa CDW roll cage tubing. If the lower bolts (M8, 130mm long, grade 12) and the spacers are used, the bar physically cannot pivot downward. Also, bolts actually replace OEM mounting points of the support bar to the frame(strongest points of the car), zero drilling/modifying needed.

Here are a few photos in the raw of the actual connection points. You'll see that they do not go into the "support bar" which is very thin which is not recommended to support harnesses, rather they go into the actual supporting joints to hold in the support bar which are much thicker. Also, they bar goes back far enough to fully be prevented from rotating downward in the event of an accident, so all of this talk about it rotating around in the event of an accident, is irrelevant.





Take a peak at the difference between the bar you posted and this one in the same raw stage. The bar is solid from end to end, and comes backward with sheer connection points focused on quality and safey.

I have no idea what you're talking about but that bar in the pic is a waste as there nothing holding the center from collapsing and again the robispec bar is not designed to be used as a harness bar because nissan did not engineer the mounting points to take a load like that. Anyone who runs anything besides a real harness bar mounted to a roll cage is a complete idiot and good luck living through a crash. I'm done talking about this retarded topic as it never dies.

1slow370 11-11-2014 02:19 PM

when I see those pictures all i can think of is how thin those end brackets are

1cleanZ 11-11-2014 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 3028579)
when I see those pictures all i can think of is how thin those end brackets are

Yes, the bolts(Grade 12 & 130mm in length) go through the brackets, but they also all the way into the oem support bar. The OEM support bar in conjuntion with the brackets are bolted directly to the chasis of the car.

Another thing I want to point out is that I feel you guys may be missing, the bar literally cannot freely rotate downward without hitting(even if there were no bolts holding it to the brackets at all). The bolts themselves aren't all that is keeping the bar from rotating.

The reason why the OEM bar isn't up to standard to support harnesses themselves is the bar itself, not the chasis mounting points on the sides.

1slow370 11-11-2014 03:21 PM

No i mean the seatbelt ends what is that angle sheet metal?

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1cleanZ 11-12-2014 01:36 PM

I'm currently exploring options connecting the outsides (shortly after the B-pillar) directly to the strut tower, but with a bolt on option allowing people to have the option to add or not(not absolutely requiring you to modify your rear strut tower covers similar to the GT-SPEC strut bar). We are researching to see connection points and options that are optimal for strength, yet functional.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 3028631)
No i mean the seatbelt ends what is that angle sheet metal?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

The steel plates securing to the B-pillars are 5mm thick.

The cage tubing is 4mm with 2mm thick wall.

1slow370 11-13-2014 03:21 PM

Let me just put it this way, a harness bar needs to be able to support at least 24000 joules of impact force in a low speed collision or the equivalent of tying a rope attached the bar to 260kg weight and dropping it 9.4 meters. That would do for street duty.

in a racing situation we can increase that to 66,250 joules or the same weight dropped from 260Meters.

Edit: another thing to remember is that the factory belt location is designed to work with pretensioning belts so the impact force at the mount point is lower due to the longer time of impact as your body move against the belt, rigid belts will transfer more force to the mount bolts due to the decreased transfer time. Also the energy figures I posted are somewhat exaggerated as they assume a dead stop like if the car hit a wall head on and there is more that goes into it than that because if you hit side ways there will be less force on the bar but it would all be on one mount.

victorofhavoc 12-30-2014 01:30 PM

Not to stir up something new, but i just read through several harness bar/cage threads that all lead to the same place...argument and a dead stop.

I'm not looking for a bar or anything for street use. Does anyone know if someone has yet implemented a removable cage for the rear section of the Z? I'm thinking it's possible to weld in joint in certain spots behind the driver and use the rear child restraint port to develop a fully removable rear section. That way for street you can remove it and not die and for track you can keep from sliding around too much.

I'm heading to roll cage specialist early this new year to custom fab something for me, but just wondering if anyone has seen or done anything close to what i'm attempting to accomplish. Maybe it's possible, maybe not.

Wiggins3377 12-30-2014 01:43 PM

I had a "bolt in" cage installed in the spring. That being said there was some welding done on the rear strut tower and behind the seats on the floor. Each weld point contains about 6" of solid bar that uses some sort of intersecting cross point which ultimately is bolted together making the rest of the cage removable. For instance I can completely remove the rear portion of the cage by removing 8 screws, 2 at each mounting point. The points are as follows, one at each of the rear strut tower, one at each corner of the top of the main halo. When unbolted the rear section slides out of the hatch. The main halo is removable through the driver/ passenger doors. I know that is a lot at once, but ultimately, yes it can be done and can look very clean if done right.

I was in discussion with the speed shop that made mine about reproducing these for resale, but at this point it will have to wait until spring. If you're interested send me a PM.

Wiggins3377 12-30-2014 01:44 PM

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victorofhavoc 12-30-2014 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wiggins3377 (Post 3069040)
I had a "bolt in" cage installed in the spring. That being said there was some welding done on the rear strut tower and behind the seats on the floor. Each weld point contains about 6" of solid bar that uses some sort of intersecting cross point which ultimately is bolted together making the rest of the cage removable. For instance I can completely remove the rear portion of the cage by removing 8 screws, 2 at each mounting point. The points are as follows, one at each of the rear strut tower, one at each corner of the top of the main halo. When unbolted the rear section slides out of the hatch. The main halo is removable through the driver/ passenger doors. I know that is a lot at once, but ultimately, yes it can be done and can look very clean if done right.

I was in discussion with the speed shop that made mine about reproducing these for resale, but at this point it will have to wait until spring. If you're interested send me a PM.


Complete man crush right now! :driving:

You freakin rock man. That is the perfect setup and quite gorgeous too. PM'ing you now

DEpointfive0 12-30-2014 03:24 PM

I have a few brand new Robispec harness bars that I can sell

Rangerz 01-04-2015 02:48 AM

Damn that looks really good Wiggins. Any chance you have some shots of the connection points on the floor and strut towers


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