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Xpel vs 3M clear bra
Any experience with either brands?
I was quoted $1900 for Xpel Ultimate full hood, bumper, fender, and mirrors. I checked up on pre-cut kits and it is $1400 for the Xpel Ultimate. Holy crap. |
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I just had Xpel installed last week and it was $950 for partial hood, partial fenders, mirrors and front bumper. I then proceeded to get a nick on the front bumper the next day...:crying:
I'm going to run back by the shop to see if there's anything they can do but I doubt it. |
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Clear Bra is $1750 installed. I checked around and was told that is a good price.
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Its cheaper then getting the car re-sprayed....:p
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What's being covered for that price? Sent from my Lumia 1020 using Tapatalk |
Got my ClearBra the day I bought my Z. It's now 4 years old and still looks showroom new. Either way you go is a wonderful aftermarket mod.
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I had my Z fully wrapped in Xpel film. I had researched both the Xpel and 3M films and elected to go with Xpel since it seems most durable and came highly recommended by virtually all local installers. It was costly, but it removes the "worry" of stone chips and other small abrasions … which can never be fixed properly with touch-up paint sticks … and simply makes the driving/ownership experience better. I suspect it would also improve re-sale value since the paint finish will remain like new, and the film is warrantied for 10 years. Besides the film is supposed to be self-repairing (???) … but I'm yet to test that feature. I'm very happy with it. The installation was very well done … and it looks great. That said, the installer offered that the film looks best on light-coloured vehicles such as white or silver. I'm not sure how it would look on a black or dark cherry Z.
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"The full hood and full fenders will give you the most coverage against impacts while eliminating lines and we wrap as many edges as we can to make it appear that you have nothing on your vehicle at all. The cost to protect the full hood, full fenders, mirrors, front bumper, headlights, and rockers is $1750.00 installed at your location" |
A couple of cautions regarding clear bra:
#1) I had this installed on my car (partial hood and fenders). When I took the car to the track, I covered a few other areas with track tape and overlapped the bra. The tape discolored the film and it turned yellow. The track tape was only on the car for the weekend. Be careful if you tape over the film! #2) When I decided to remove the film since I didn't like the yellowing, it was a royal pain in the a$$. It took hours and I tried all kinds of solvents/cleaners. Then the good part.....there were a few areas where it had adhered so strongly to the paint, that it pulled the paint from the car! I have clear bra on one of my other cars and am now afraid to remove it since it is starting to get worn and look bad and really needs replaced. After all these issues, I am not sure if I would use clear bra again or not......(at least not on a white car). |
I can tell you that the self healing is limited and may be a weakness of the xpel. The DAY AFTER getting it installed I got a severe scratch from something. I did not have the car on the interstate nor did I follow anyone closely. Not really happy about it after spending the $950.
winnre, $1750 sounds a bit high considering I got partial hood and partial fender, mirrors, headlights, front bumper using xpel which is more expensive than clear bra which I believe is 3M. Maybe the full front end along with rockers is that much more. IDK. Sent from my Lumia 1020 using Tapatalk |
XPEL ULTIMATE - World's FIRST SELF-HEALING Paint Protection Film
Gadgetech,
We are sorry to hear about the damage you sustained just after your installation. It takes 2-3 days for XPEL ULTIMATE to fully cure and adhere to the paint. During this time the film will be more vulnerable to damage because it is not bonded firmly enough to keep it from distorting when impacted. However, we are more than happy to cover the damaged piece under warranty. Let us know when, where, and who did the installation and we will help arrange the replacement for you. BuckeyeZ, Because the film yellowed so quickly just from tape it makes us wonder if this was a clear coated film or one that is just urethane and adhesive. Films with a clear coat coat are usually much more resistant to staining or discoloration than those without. On the removal, this should always be done using a steamer to soften the adhesive as it is removed. Not using one will put a good deal of stress on the clear coat. Also, when pulling the film off, it is important to stretch the film off rather than peeling the film back over itself or straight up from the panel. This will cause the softened adhesive to release from the paint rather than leaving a big sticky mess on the panel. If removed correctly, paint protection film in general is completely safe for OEM paint and even safe for most resprayed or touched up areas. That being said, if a repainted area was not prepped correctly, it will be vulnerable no matter what you do. |
Now they both sound scary.
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(figured since they had an aventador and Porsche Boxster Speedster in the shop my Z was in good hands. Aventador got the ENTIRE car covered. nose to tail) I recommend going with the XPEL (10yr warranty) against hazing, yellowing, and scratching. most other products only offer limited warranties. |
You may want to consider rear quarter panels . I have many many small scratches from maybe gravel on the road
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Two years ago I had the Xpel installed in all of the red areas (see attached photo) for $1425 and that included:
Front Fascia Entire Hood Front Fenders Both "A" Pillars Headlights Mirrors Rear Quarters Side Kick Panel Area behind rear wheels (on rear bumper) Albert from Block-a-Chip came over on a Saturday, and seven hours later, viola! When I tell people what I had done, no one can see the areas done unless I show them. I can get the rest of the car done for another $1100, but I may use this cash for some "go-faster" stuff. |
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i paid 300+ for ultimate for the pre-cut front bumper, and installed it myself early summer. :p considering this is a wear item, i dont mind re-applying it every couple of years. im already planning to replace it in 2015. |
Next time I get a brand new car, I'm getting most of it done with 3M Ventura shield or whatever is new. It's too once you have a single chip :(
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naw, just fix the chip and apply. that's wat i did. i had one sesame sized chip on my bumper, i still clearbra'ed it after seeing what my non-clear bra'ed G looked like after 9yrs. tons if tiny road rash near the bottom of the front bumper. :ugh:
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Thanks for the clarification XPEL. I was a bit "intrigued" when I read about the issues surrounding the removal of the film and the possibility of paint coming off. I didn't think use of cleaners/solvents was the proper technique
but as you say, use of a steamer to first soften the film and then actually stretching the film to remove it rather than trying to peel it back. I recall seeing a YouTube video explaining the removal process where the method shown was exactly as you describe. Also, given that the film is durable and I suspect resistant to most solvents, it would probably take a pretty "aggressive" solvent to soften it up enough for removal
which would also likely soften the paint. Finally, glad to know that XPEL stands behind its product!
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i just use a heat gun and pull to stretch to remove. it looks like im pulling in the wrong direction. :icon17: it's the same technique to remove 3M mounting tape. go slow, take your time. at the end you save more time.
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For those of you all that got the Xpel Ultimate done, are the edges fully covered as well? I've seen pictures where the film ends about 1/4" from the edge...wasn't sure if that was common practice or not.
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With a good install they will usually wrap the film around any edges (hood, trunk, doors etc.) and tuck it up under any rubber seals. However, because the seal tolerances are so tight on the Z, I found they left about a 1/16" gap around my windows. They likely would have effed the seals if they would have tried to tuck the film. I only know because I also have an Xterra that was filmed and there are no gaps because the rubber seals are flimsier and easy to lift up so that the film could be tucked under. Not sure if this answers your question.
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I have gaps around areas like the daytime running lights and on the edges but I think that's normal when using computer cut sheets. It's hard to tell and I would think that there has to be a little room left to ensure there's a nice seal that remains.
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I had my Z installed with 3m and was totally unsatisfied because of bug splatter that etched my bumper in less than a week of usage. But I also installed it on my other car and had no issue. Xpel has a an extra coating that can prevent this. If you go with 3M you definitely want to look into sealing your car more often.
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Just to close the loop, XPEL reached out to my installer about replacing the piece on my front bumper. I have an appointment on Thursday to get it reinstalled!
Can't ask for better CS! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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if you want full coverage, then you need to go to a shop that use uncut rolls. |
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Sounds supple Sent from my Lumia 1020 using Tapatalk |
I did not before and my car's 3M and the bug stains etched the film. My other car I used wax & sealant and I have absolutely not problem wiping the stain away.
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