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Aftermarket heated seats... OEM Switches..

Is it possible to get aftermarket seat heaters to work with the OEM switch? I have a 2009 base and I'm getting my cloth seats reupholstered with leather. I came

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Old 08-27-2013, 05:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Aftermarket heated seats... OEM Switches..

Is it possible to get aftermarket seat heaters to work with the OEM switch?
I have a 2009 base and I'm getting my cloth seats reupholstered with leather. I came across a set of the OEM switches and was wondering if I could get this to work...
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It depends on the size of the wiring and the fusing. I can't remember the specs but you can find them in the FSM (I want to say 15A (~135W with some safety factor) but not sure). The OEM switches should be able to handle just about any pad - if not, install an interposing relay(s).

Edit: Electrically, the pads are just resistors (ie, no fancy wiring), so the only thing you have to worry about is the current carrying capacity of the wires/switches.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Agree, the current capacity should be written on the seat heater spec sheet, the switch should handle that. Also look at FSM for amp capacity/requirements of the factory seat heater. We just happen to have a few seat heater aftermarket kits in our shop and they are 10A each recommended switch. Of course they include a switch but that's what their recommended switch amp capacity is.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ojust wiring in some relays and take the load of the switches completely?
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
ojust wiring in some relays and take the load of the switches completely?
An interposing relay is not necessary unless the replacement pads draw more current than the switch is rated for. If the replacements have the same (or greater) resistance as the OEMs, relays would just add complexity and lessen reliability.


Edit:
To OP: You can get an approximation of current draw by dividing the Watts by 12 (Volts). EG, if the pad is rated at 36W, it will pull ~3A.
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hey guys, thanks for the replies. The guy at my local leather seat shop after looking at the FSM said he can't do it without the factory harnesses. I'm not sure if he's being completely honest or just being lazy. What do you guys think? Do I have to have the factory harnesses to get the switches to work with aftermarket heaters? I really want to get these things to work!
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeEePiDDy View Post
Hey guys, thanks for the replies. The guy at my local leather seat shop after looking at the FSM said he can't do it without the factory harnesses. I'm not sure if he's being completely honest or just being lazy. What do you guys think? Do I have to have the factory harnesses to get the switches to work with aftermarket heaters? I really want to get these things to work!
Dammit, man! He's an upholsterer, not an electrician. (apologies to Dr. McCoy)
He may not be able to do it but it's an easy job (assuming the switches will physically fit in the console). See if you can find a buddy with a little bit of wiring experience and a crimp tool.
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The guy IS the electrical guy at the leather seat shop. He specializes in the electrical stuff.
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Not sure what his problem is then. Ask him which part he doesn't think he can handle. Anybody that's done any electrical work should find it an easy job. It might help to show him one of the DIYs from this site.

Edit: Y'all can find connector pinouts, wire colors, &c in the FSM.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Yea I think he's just being lazy about it. I was talking to Matt (BigAudioFanat) and he told me to have them install the aftermarket stuff and he would change out the switches for me later...
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