Paintless dent repair drivers side rear panel question

kenchan · 07-18-2013, 05:54 PM

it's a pdr tool that looks like a whale tail at the end. i use it mostly for tight space or to remove glue/sealants behind the doors, etc.

darli328 · 07-18-2013, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

it's a pdr tool that looks like a whale tail at the end. i use it mostly for tight space or to remove glue/sealants behind the doors, etc.

Interesting, and thanks again!

darli328 · 07-18-2013, 08:03 PM

Two ideas I had that probably won't work but wanted to see if anyone had some thoughts. Can the silver door hook be removed or is it welded on? Looks like it has special screws to me but I'm pretty much a noob here. If so, would that be a viable option to gain access to the rear panel area.
Also, what about the rubber/plastic trim just above the door handle and in front of the pretty much useless rear side window? Obviously I don't know much about PDR or how big the tools are. But, looks to me those plastic clips in question can be removed but I'm not sure if you can get access anywhere from there.

darli328 · 07-19-2013, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

see service manual BRM page 32 rear fender hemming process.

then you'll see wat im talking about. you need to drill a small hole inside the wheel well to gain access. even if you remove the tail lamp you wont gain access, and even if you drilled the metal behind the tail lamp, you still wont gain access.

Tried searching for BRM service manual and/or service manual with no real luck. However I did find some links to buy a digital copy off of Nissan's website... I also skimmed through my owners manual to find anything on the area in question. I guess I'm just not ready to give up yep. Sorry, drilling in the fender well is something I don't want to do. I'm starting to wondering, is the area completely sealed? I would imagine there's an opening somewhere. And, thanks again for your patients with this.

DIGItonium · 07-19-2013, 02:18 PM

Both of my front fenders, rear quarter panel, trunk lid, and door were PDR'd. I should get the car back this Monday. I dropped by to peek at it in the paint booth, and it looks very good. The tech was able to fix the nasty hail damage on the body line of the fender.

kenchan · 07-19-2013, 02:20 PM

download the entire service manual here:

2009 370z Service Manual Complete ready to Download!

then look at the BRM p32.

kenchan · 07-19-2013, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium

Both of my front fenders, rear quarter panel, trunk lid, and door were PDR'd. I should get the car back this Monday. I dropped by to peek at it in the paint booth, and it looks very good. The tech was able to fix the nasty hail damage on the body line of the fender.

digi-good to hear your car's coming along.

the front fender should be pretty easy as there's only the plastic liner to peel back. the rear quarter has a layer of metal that blocks access to the arch area so a bit more tricky to gain access. that's why darli's PDR guy couldn't fix his because darli does not want the tech to drill an access hole.

DIGItonium · 07-19-2013, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

digi-good to hear your car's coming along.

Thanks! I'm going crazy without the car. In fact, most of the dents weren't popped out, but the tech filled it in and sanded it down smooth. The fenders and roof were painted on the car, and the door was removed prior to painting.

darli328 · 07-20-2013, 02:50 PM

Is there anywhere else to drill besides in the fender well? What about removing interior trim pieces? Someone mentioned behind the tail light might be an option...

KcL@AOI · 07-21-2013, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darli328

Do you have any experience with removing the tail light? Can you access the area in question from there? Seems kind of far, maybe 2 or more feet away.

Yea when there is a crease that sharp on the body line its pointless to glue pull, cause your gonna risk pinching the dent shut and thats gonna make it even harder to get out. On quarter panels theres no access unless its a bmw or mercedes cause they have secret plugs in the quarter well. Im about 99% sure that if you take out the tail light and stick a ultra thin whale tail you could easily get it out. Theres no access under trim or bumper. I would take the tailight out like i said before and stick a long ultra thin whale tail. if that doesnt work last resort is to beat the dent out. what i mean by this is to beat to the sides of the crease. of course its gonna make the dent bigger, but its also gonna make the dent less sharp. your basicly gonna make the dent more shallow and soft do you can stick a glue tab on it and pull it up. theres no way to just stick a glue tab on that sharp of a dent.

this is the company i work for, its just me and my boss.
heres the link if you want to take a look at some of our work.

Welcome to Dentmagix

heres a pic of a ultra thin whale tail.
uk/d21.html

its long so you can stick it right through the tail light hole with nothing in your way. make sure he tries with the tail light out. sometimes i get lazy myself and try and do it with the tail light in, takes twice as long and doesn't come out perfect.

Sorry for the response!

KcL@AOI · 07-21-2013, 10:13 AM

darli328 · 07-21-2013, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KcL@AOI

Yea when there is a crease that sharp on the body line its pointless to glue pull, cause your gonna risk pinching the dent shut and thats gonna make it even harder to get out. On quarter panels theres no access unless its a bmw or mercedes cause they have secret plugs in the quarter well. Im about 99% sure that if you take out the tail light and stick a ultra thin whale tail you could easily get it out. Theres no access under trim or bumper. I would take the tailight out like i said before and stick a long ultra thin whale tail. if that doesnt work last resort is to beat the dent out. what i mean by this is to beat to the sides of the crease. of course its gonna make the dent bigger, but its also gonna make the dent less sharp. your basicly gonna make the dent more shallow and soft do you can stick a glue tab on it and pull it up. theres no way to just stick a glue tab on that sharp of a dent.

this is the company i work for, its just me and my boss.
heres the link if you want to take a look at some of our work.

Welcome to Dentmagix

heres a pic of a ultra thin whale tail.
uk/d21.html

its long so you can stick it right through the tail light hole with nothing in your way. make sure he tries with the tail light out. sometimes i get lazy myself and try and do it with the tail light in, takes twice as long and doesn't come out perfect.

Sorry for the response!

Thanks so much for the response, I'll talk with my tech tomorrow and see what he says.

darli328 · 07-21-2013, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KcL@AOI

Yea when there is a crease that sharp on the body line its pointless to glue pull, cause your gonna risk pinching the dent shut and thats gonna make it even harder to get out. On quarter panels theres no access unless its a bmw or mercedes cause they have secret plugs in the quarter well. Im about 99% sure that if you take out the tail light and stick a ultra thin whale tail you could easily get it out. Theres no access under trim or bumper. I would take the tailight out like i said before and stick a long ultra thin whale tail. if that doesnt work last resort is to beat the dent out. what i mean by this is to beat to the sides of the crease. of course its gonna make the dent bigger, but its also gonna make the dent less sharp. your basicly gonna make the dent more shallow and soft do you can stick a glue tab on it and pull it up. theres no way to just stick a glue tab on that sharp of a dent.

this is the company i work for, its just me and my boss.
heres the link if you want to take a look at some of our work.

Welcome to Dentmagix

heres a pic of a ultra thin whale tail.
uk/d21.html

its long so you can stick it right through the tail light hole with nothing in your way. make sure he tries with the tail light out. sometimes i get lazy myself and try and do it with the tail light in, takes twice as long and doesn't come out perfect.

Sorry for the response!

I did some searching on tail light removal. Got a lot of info off this thread.

DIY: of complete FOG LAMP install

Does it look like there is a big enough access hole behind the tail light to get to my dent? I see a few small potential access holes, just not sure if that's good enough for my situation.

darli328 · 07-31-2013, 08:09 PM

Incase anyone's curious. Went to a body shop today. They managed to get the dent out without drilling by removing the interior truck pieces. The results aren't perfect. I'd say 90-95% of the dent is gone, not too bad all things considered. But, it is possible to gain access to the metal behind the rear quarter panel through the trunk. Thanks again for everyone's help.

kenchan · 07-31-2013, 08:38 PM

Just over the weekend my G35C got hit by a rock or something dented the hood about 2" inward. I used the tab holes to gain access to get about 90% out. Then enlarged the hole using a metal cutting dremel to get the last 10% out.

That is the difference between good and great work.

If you let the shop drill you can get the rest of it out.

07-19-2013, 02:18 PM	#35 (permalink)
DIGItonium A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 3,800 Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT Rep Power: 43	Both of my front fenders, rear quarter panel, trunk lid, and door were PDR'd. I should get the car back this Monday. I dropped by to peek at it in the paint booth, and it looks very good. The tech was able to fix the nasty hail damage on the body line of the fender. __________________

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07-18-2013, 05:54 PM	#31 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	it's a pdr tool that looks like a whale tail at the end. i use it mostly for tight space or to remove glue/sealants behind the doors, etc.

07-18-2013, 08:03 PM	#33 (permalink)
darli328 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Seattle Posts: 198 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 13	Two ideas I had that probably won't work but wanted to see if anyone had some thoughts. Can the silver door hook be removed or is it welded on? Looks like it has special screws to me but I'm pretty much a noob here. If so, would that be a viable option to gain access to the rear panel area. Also, what about the rubber/plastic trim just above the door handle and in front of the pretty much useless rear side window? Obviously I don't know much about PDR or how big the tools are. But, looks to me those plastic clips in question can be removed but I'm not sure if you can get access anywhere from there.

07-19-2013, 02:20 PM	#36 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	download the entire service manual here: 2009 370z Service Manual Complete ready to Download! then look at the BRM p32.

07-20-2013, 02:50 PM	#39 (permalink)
darli328 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Seattle Posts: 198 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 13	Is there anywhere else to drill besides in the fender well? What about removing interior trim pieces? Someone mentioned behind the tail light might be an option...

07-21-2013, 10:13 AM	#41 (permalink)
KcL@AOI Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: ATL (KENNESAW) Posts: 157 Drives: '10 370z Nismo #0071 Rep Power: 16

07-31-2013, 08:09 PM	#44 (permalink)
darli328 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Seattle Posts: 198 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 13	Incase anyone's curious. Went to a body shop today. They managed to get the dent out without drilling by removing the interior truck pieces. The results aren't perfect. I'd say 90-95% of the dent is gone, not too bad all things considered. But, it is possible to gain access to the metal behind the rear quarter panel through the trunk. Thanks again for everyone's help.

07-31-2013, 08:38 PM	#45 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	Just over the weekend my G35C got hit by a rock or something dented the hood about 2" inward. I used the tab holes to gain access to get about 90% out. Then enlarged the hole using a metal cutting dremel to get the last 10% out. That is the difference between good and great work. If you let the shop drill you can get the rest of it out.