Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock...

wheee! · 07-01-2013, 03:40 PM

ISSUE FIXED see this post:
http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ml#post2389402

Anyone else having this intermittent issue?

I have done the steering lock fuse delete on my 2010 Z. After that, I occasionally had a delay in starting the car. Get in, push the clutch in, push the start button and noting happened for a couple of seconds and then... vroom, away she goes.

Now, I get in the car, push the clutch in and then push the start button. The car goes to Access then does nothing. I push the button once more and it goes to On, but no starting. I push again to Off and the cycle repeats three or four times with no luck. Then, for no apparent reason, it will start either from the Off position with one push, or from the Access position with another push...

what gives? I have changed the key fob battery, tried putting the key in the fobgina, no difference!

Reflash the ECU? I have UpRev but I really don't think it's the issue here. I am thinking maybe it is the push button Start switch itself.

Ideas anyone?? I am tired of sitting in the car with the dome lights going off and on for five minutes trying to get the car to start!

GaleForce · 07-01-2013, 03:42 PM

Check your clutch switches?

kenchan · 07-01-2013, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

Check your clutch switches?

good advice

wheee! · 07-01-2013, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

Check your clutch switches?

Forgot to mention I adjusted the pedal switch to make sure it was making full contact.

olddudesrule · 07-01-2013, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

Check your clutch switches?

Second this idea^. Happened recently to another member.

edit: should have read ahead....Good luck with the fix.

kenchan · 07-01-2013, 03:44 PM

have you tried putting the steering lock fuse back in the car? try that first.

wheee! · 07-01-2013, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

have you tried putting the steering lock fuse back in the car? try that first.

This is next. I have a new steering lock waiting for me at the dealer too. Just need an appointment. Was hoping to eliminate this problem first.

kenchan · 07-01-2013, 03:46 PM

i wonder if the IPDM is broken?

i remember early on dealers were swapping IPDM before the steering lock.

carvalho360 · 07-01-2013, 03:48 PM

really off topic...but i LOL'd when i read Fobgina

kenchan · 07-01-2013, 04:20 PM

i hope it's not the clutch switch...not that it should cost that much out of pocket anyway. i can almost see the dealer telling you "you MODIFIED the clutch pedal return spring, thus causing the failure, warranty is denied" lol

kenchan · 07-01-2013, 04:21 PM

then you get pissed and start calling nissan consumer affairs....

then get a stupid canned message lady on the other end of the line...

JARblue · 07-01-2013, 04:22 PM

This is interesting. I will point Pintsize towards this thread because she is having what seems to be a very similar issue except in a 7AT. Push brake, push start button, car goes to ACC instead of turning over.

b15 · 07-02-2013, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

This is interesting. I will point Pintsize towards this thread because she is having what seems to be a very similar issue except in a 7AT. Push brake, push start button, car goes to ACC instead of turning over. The fact that it goes to ACC means that you are correctly pushing the clutch (or brake in 7AT), but very strange that it doesn't turn on.

Not necessarily. You can go into ACC and ON without depressing the clutch/brake. The fact that it's cycling through without starting makes me believe that the clutch switch is probably giving out. That switch gives the signal to go past "ON" and actually start the car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee!

Well I changed the ignition switch, no difference. Then I put the 10A fuse for the steering lock assembly back in the IPDM, no difference....

I am starting to think that maybe I have a defective clutch switch as the culprit. I know it's fully engaging the switch, but maybe the switch is defective or faulty.

My money is on the clutch switch as well. I used to have an '08 Altima and they had similar issues as you described and it ended up being a faulty brake switch (Autos). Swap a new one in and it fired up like normal.

I still don't believe removing the fuse is the cause of the delay either. My Altima had an occasional delay as well and I did not disable the steering lock on that car. Z does the same thing.

JARblue · 07-02-2013, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b15

Not necessarily. You can go into ACC and ON without depressing the clutch/brake. The fact that it's cycling through without starting makes me believe that the clutch switch is probably giving out. That switch gives the signal to go past "ON" and actually start the car.

I realized this after posting...

MJB · 07-01-2013, 04:24 PM

When I removed my steering lock fuse, sometimes my car wouldn't start when pushing the start button, only when I would put the key into the fob was when it would finally start. I bought a new REV D lock, installed it and put the fuse back in, no more starting issues. Maybe yours could be related?

07-01-2013, 03:40 PM	#1 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 58 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40182	Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock... ISSUE FIXED see this post: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ml#post2389402 Anyone else having this intermittent issue? I have done the steering lock fuse delete on my 2010 Z. After that, I occasionally had a delay in starting the car. Get in, push the clutch in, push the start button and noting happened for a couple of seconds and then... vroom, away she goes. Now, I get in the car, push the clutch in and then push the start button. The car goes to Access then does nothing. I push the button once more and it goes to On, but no starting. I push again to Off and the cycle repeats three or four times with no luck. Then, for no apparent reason, it will start either from the Off position with one push, or from the Access position with another push... what gives? I have changed the key fob battery, tried putting the key in the fobgina, no difference! Reflash the ECU? I have UpRev but I really don't think it's the issue here. I am thinking maybe it is the push button Start switch itself. Ideas anyone?? I am tired of sitting in the car with the dome lights going off and on for five minutes trying to get the car to start! carvalho360 likes this. __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal Last edited by wheee!; 07-02-2013 at 05:58 PM.

07-01-2013, 03:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	Check your clutch switches? __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

07-01-2013, 03:48 PM	#9 (permalink)
carvalho360 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 114 Drives: 09 370z black Rep Power: 15	really off topic...but i LOL'd when i read Fobgina eastwest2300, MyKindaGuise, Smashley and 1 others like this. __________________ Reconstructed salvage. 2009 silver turned black 370z. Rims + handles blacked out, 15% tints, fast intentions catback exhaust, stillen gen 3 cai and much more soon to come.

07-01-2013, 04:22 PM	#12 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	This is interesting. I will point Pintsize towards this thread because she is having what seems to be a very similar issue except in a 7AT. Push brake, push start button, car goes to ACC instead of turning over. wheee! likes this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \| Last edited by JARblue; 07-03-2013 at 08:18 AM.

07-01-2013, 04:24 PM	#15 (permalink)
MJB A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tacoma, WA Age: 41 Posts: 1,498 Drives: a POS truck Rep Power: 496	When I removed my steering lock fuse, sometimes my car wouldn't start when pushing the start button, only when I would put the key into the fob was when it would finally start. I bought a new REV D lock, installed it and put the fuse back in, no more starting issues. Maybe yours could be related? __________________ 09 Nismo #0483 sold. Viper or C7 next time around.

07-01-2013, 03:44 PM	#6 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	have you tried putting the steering lock fuse back in the car? try that first.

07-01-2013, 03:46 PM	#8 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i wonder if the IPDM is broken? i remember early on dealers were swapping IPDM before the steering lock.

07-01-2013, 04:20 PM	#10 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i hope it's not the clutch switch...not that it should cost that much out of pocket anyway. i can almost see the dealer telling you "you MODIFIED the clutch pedal return spring, thus causing the failure, warranty is denied" lol

07-01-2013, 04:21 PM	#11 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	then you get pissed and start calling nissan consumer affairs.... then get a stupid canned message lady on the other end of the line...

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