Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock...
 

ISSUE FIXED see this post:
http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ml#post2389402

Anyone else having this intermittent issue?

I have done the steering lock fuse delete on my 2010 Z. After that, I occasionally had a delay in starting the car. Get in, push the clutch in, push the start button and noting happened for a couple of seconds and then... vroom, away she goes.

Now, I get in the car, push the clutch in and then push the start button. The car goes to Access then does nothing. I push the button once more and it goes to On, but no starting. I push again to Off and the cycle repeats three or four times with no luck. Then, for no apparent reason, it will start either from the Off position with one push, or from the Access position with another push...

what gives? I have changed the key fob battery, tried putting the key in the fobgina, no difference!

Reflash the ECU? I have UpRev but I really don't think it's the issue here. I am thinking maybe it is the push button Start switch itself.

Ideas anyone?? I am tired of sitting in the car with the dome lights going off and on for five minutes trying to get the car to start!

Check your clutch switches?

have you tried putting the steering lock fuse back in the car? try that first.

good advice

i wonder if the IPDM is broken?

i remember early on dealers were swapping IPDM before the steering lock.

really off topic...but i LOL'd when i read Fobgina :roflpuke2:

Forgot to mention I adjusted the pedal switch to make sure it was making full contact.

This is next. I have a new steering lock waiting for me at the dealer too. Just need an appointment. Was hoping to eliminate this problem first.

i hope it's not the clutch switch...not that it should cost that much out of pocket anyway. i can almost see the dealer telling you "you MODIFIED the clutch pedal return spring, thus causing the failure, warranty is denied" lol

then you get pissed and start calling nissan consumer affairs....

then get a stupid canned message lady on the other end of the line... :facepalm:

This is interesting. I will point Pintsize towards this thread because she is having what seems to be a very similar issue except in a 7AT. Push brake, push start button, car goes to ACC instead of turning over.

When I removed my steering lock fuse, sometimes my car wouldn't start when pushing the start button, only when I would put the key into the fob was when it would finally start. I bought a new REV D lock, installed it and put the fuse back in, no more starting issues. Maybe yours could be related?

IBTL

:roflpuke2:

wheee!, had the same problem as JARblue mentioned above. Has not happened in a bit over a week but I am now experiencing the "normal" start delay more frequently.

Did yours always fire up the next round? Or did it take a few cycles, like wheee! mentioned?

The only instance of it not starting up on the next round was the day we met with Deanna to hit Trudy's. I tried about 8 or so times to start it and nothing would happen. Other than that, the second time is the charm so far.

I had this happen whenever I left my keyfob in the car overnight over the winter and it was very cold. Haven't had a problem since. It only happened on those two nights that I left the fob in the car overnight in the cold though.

Your first sentence points to low key fob battery. I had ESCL Rev D stock, but I still removed the fuse. About 9 months later, the start delay is still very occasional.

Same here... Started getting the delayed start... Then a couple months later the car would only start when I would put the key in the fob... Put the fuse back in, installed new lock just to be safe, and the car is starting fine now.

I do use the fobgina daily though.....

does it make any difference if you kept the fob in your purse or inserted in the fob slot? :confused:

Your guess is as good as mine. I only use it for easy access to my gate remote since I don't have Homelink.

hummmm...

Sounds like I need the new steering lock assembly. I already replaced the key fob battery too....

Negative... that was the first thing I did. Replaced batteries in both keys. Same thing would happen. Sometimes it would start the first push of the start button, other times the "no key" would light up on the display and show the "insert key into port" picture.... Sometimes if the car wouldn't start using the button, I could hit the unlock button on my key while I was in the car, and then push the start button and everything started like normal.. It was like the ECU was confused or something after I removed the steering lock fuse, like it couldn't read the key anymore unless I plugged it into the port...

Anyways, everything is good now. And as far as I know, my REV C was working fine... I only bought a REV D because a member on here was selling it for dirt cheap. So after I put the fuse back in, I went ahead and installed the new lock... starts with absolutely no problems.

MJB- sounds good! I too use RevC and have a working RevB in the trunk with tools at all times. :) I'm using a 10mm bolt so very easy to swap out in the field.

Second this idea^. Happened recently to another member.

edit: should have read ahead....Good luck with the fix.

Lol same here. Keep the REV C in the glove box, and I'm using regular bolts so I can change it out on the fly:tup:

:tup:

Well I changed the ignition switch, no difference. Then I put the 10A fuse for the steering lock assembly back in the IPDM, no difference....

I am starting to think that maybe I have a defective clutch switch as the culprit. I know it's fully engaging the switch, but maybe the switch is defective or faulty.

It would be a good place to look. I recall someone having switch issues on the forum. I don't remember if its the clutch switch or brake switch that was the problem in that case. Obviously you would be looking at both clutch switches, brake switch NA for your application.

I need a picture of the switch to make sure I am adjusting the right one. Can't download the manual on the military computers.. :shakes head:

do you know what you need out of the manual, maybe we can get that page to you in pdf.

EDIT: I can't download it here either, BUT-I have my ipad...let me see what I can do.

Nope-Safari won't download it. crap.
Where's Jar when you need him!!

JARRR!!!!

:icon18: lol, the efforts we go to for each other... :tiphat:

:tiphat: :hello:

This is the switch, hard to tell but the photo is from the iphone laying on the floor of the car....
I backed off the locking nut, and brought the microswitch closer to the pedal. The pedal has a plastic paddle that contacts the switch and it seems as though it had become somewhat recessed with use. Making better contact had no effect though...

It is a contact closure switch. You can check if it is working correctly by disconnecting the connector and measuring the resistance across the switch when depressed.

As a test you can also disconnect the harness and bridge the two pins. This will trick the computer into thinking your clutch is depressed all the time. Don't leave it like this though!

Is this THE most awkward switch to work on in the car?? lol my back is killing me just thinking of doing this again...

Yes :tup:

All wiring under the dash sucks to work on, there is no comfortable position possible, and I think I've tried them all :)

interesting, i always thought i wa sthe only one getting delayed start off of the fuse remove.

next service i'm identifying the steering lock issue and hopefully they'll get it replaced with rev whateverthefuckthelatestis, so i don't have to worry too much. i noticed sometimes it'll take 5 seconds to get the car starting to turn over, sometimes it is normal...weird.

makes you wonder what kind of feedback loop that missing fuse is doing to the ecu O_o;