Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock...

wheee!

Good point Chris. It's best to open the switches and clean the contacts properly anyways. That might solve her issue completely...

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JARblue

Can be configured that way or is configured that way? If the ASCD brake switch is closed at rest, then your cruise control scenario makes perfect sense.

Since the clutch switch interlock switch that enables the car to turn on is open at rest, it would make sense to me that the 7AT brake switch operates similarly. With the clutch pedal, I can push it 95% to the floor and the car still won't turn on. If the AT version requires that you push the brake far enough to enable the brake lights, then it follows that the stop lamp switch is the likely culprit. Someone with a functioning switch in their AT could check this by pushing the brake pedal but not far enough to trigger the brake lights and see if the car turns on.

If the ASCD switches are indeed closed circuit at rest and are responsible for permitting the car to turn on, you should be able to turn your car on as soon as the pedal (clutch for 6MT, brake for 7AT) travels far enough to open the switch circuit, which would be barely any travel at all.

Of course, your scenario where the ECU reads the position of both switches makes sense as well. The pedal barely has to be pushed to open the circuit of the ASCD switch, but the pedal also has to be pushed far enough to close the circuit of the second switch.

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JARblue

Sounds like we may just want to go ahead and pull both switches and clean them out for maintenance. I think we'll start with the stop lamp switch just for troubleshooting purposes. But even if that solves the problem, it may be prudent to clean the other switch as well.

I would guess that the switches are ON or OFF with no in between (i.e. digital signal), but is there any chance the "start delay" could possibly be related to dirty contacts in one of these switches?

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wheee!

I feel bad for not taking pictures when I had the switch apart. I was in a hurry to fix the problem!

The switch is uber simple. A straight pole pushed through the body of the switch to allow the contacts to close and create a 'short' condition. No electronics, no logic circuit, nothing more than a mechanical set of points making contact.....

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JARblue

No worries There is a lot of good information in this thread As long as they're easy to remove, which they appear to be from the service manual, I'll be happy. The only thing I'm not looking forward to is working down in the foot well

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wheee!

They are easy to remove. Unplug the harness (release tab is closest to the switch part itself). A 14mm wrench will undo the locking nut, then just unscrew the switch from the mount.

The switch is then enclosed by two tabs that can be gently pried open with a jewellers screwdriver and then the switch will come apart. Be careful you don't dump the contacts and spring all over the place! It is a simple switch and goes back together easily.

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wheee!

Anyone solve their delay start with this method yet?

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wheee!

Any updates on tracies car Jar?

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Pintsize725

Nope, we've both been too busy to arrange anything.

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Tracie

370z_2910

wheee!

do you still have issue starting your z?

how about the steering lock harness connector?

does it resolve the starting problem?

wheee!

My issue has been 100% resolved with this method. I have the new generation steering lock and the harness is intact. The fuse is still in but I will pull it again probably one day.

Let me repeat: THIS PROBLEM IS 100% RESOLVED WITH THE CLEANING OF THE CLUTCH SWITCH!

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mayday813

I'm a little confused. Are you guys cleaning the clutch position switch or the the clutch interlock switch? Or, are you cleaning both switches?

wheee!

The switch that is depressed when the clutch pedal is fully pressed...

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wheee!

I see a few more of these threads popping up about this same issue... bump for relevance!

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JRHollywood

Glad I found this, I'm pretty sure (hoping) this is my issue also.

I started with the wheel lock fix, both cut the brown wire, didn't help. So I pulled the fuse for good measure, didn't help.

Then I reset the ECU which i read somewhere might help, didn't help. Ready to pull my hair out at this point until I found this post.

My car cycles between ACC and On, lights and all come on, but doesn't fire at all. Occasionally/intermittently it does though, and it seems to get worse and worse the last few weeks to now I don't want to drive it for fear of getting stuck somewhere. The "press clutch in" picture on the dash shows as well, which is why I started searching for clutch issues.

Fingers crossed cleaning it will be the solution! I'll let you know how it goes.

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2010 370Z Roadster
2007 Hummer H3