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Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock...

Originally Posted by wheee! Well I changed the ignition switch, no difference. Then I put the 10A fuse for the steering lock assembly back in the IPDM, no difference.... I

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Old 07-02-2013, 10:54 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
Well I changed the ignition switch, no difference. Then I put the 10A fuse for the steering lock assembly back in the IPDM, no difference....

I am starting to think that maybe I have a defective clutch switch as the culprit. I know it's fully engaging the switch, but maybe the switch is defective or faulty.
It would be a good place to look. I recall someone having switch issues on the forum. I don't remember if its the clutch switch or brake switch that was the problem in that case. Obviously you would be looking at both clutch switches, brake switch NA for your application.
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:26 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I need a picture of the switch to make sure I am adjusting the right one. Can't download the manual on the military computers..
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:32 AM   #33 (permalink)
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do you know what you need out of the manual, maybe we can get that page to you in pdf.

EDIT: I can't download it here either, BUT-I have my ipad...let me see what I can do.

Nope-Safari won't download it. crap.
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:03 PM   #34 (permalink)
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lol, the efforts we go to for each other...
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:36 PM   #36 (permalink)
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This is the switch, hard to tell but the photo is from the iphone laying on the floor of the car....
I backed off the locking nut, and brought the microswitch closer to the pedal. The pedal has a plastic paddle that contacts the switch and it seems as though it had become somewhat recessed with use. Making better contact had no effect though...
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File Type: jpg switch2.JPG (46.9 KB, 142 views)
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:48 PM   #37 (permalink)
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It is a contact closure switch. You can check if it is working correctly by disconnecting the connector and measuring the resistance across the switch when depressed.

As a test you can also disconnect the harness and bridge the two pins. This will trick the computer into thinking your clutch is depressed all the time. Don't leave it like this though!
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:54 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Is this THE most awkward switch to work on in the car?? lol my back is killing me just thinking of doing this again...
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:59 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Yes

All wiring under the dash sucks to work on, there is no comfortable position possible, and I think I've tried them all
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:16 PM   #40 (permalink)
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interesting, i always thought i wa sthe only one getting delayed start off of the fuse remove.

next service i'm identifying the steering lock issue and hopefully they'll get it replaced with rev whateverthefuckthelatestis, so i don't have to worry too much. i noticed sometimes it'll take 5 seconds to get the car starting to turn over, sometimes it is normal...weird.

makes you wonder what kind of feedback loop that missing fuse is doing to the ecu O_o;
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:57 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by blackcherry20 View Post
do you know what you need out of the manual, maybe we can get that page to you in pdf.

EDIT: I can't download it here either, BUT-I have my ipad...let me see what I can do.

Nope-Safari won't download it. crap.
Where's Jar when you need him!!

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Sorry stepped out of the office

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
lol, the efforts we go to for each other...
She even sent me a PM

Looks like you found it just fine, but here it is in the manual - it is referred to as the Clutch Interlock Switch (#8)



Quote:
Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
Is this THE most awkward switch to work on in the car?? lol my back is killing me just thinking of doing this again...
I'm not looking forward to my RJM clutch pedal replacement and I haven't even purchased the damn thing yet
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:34 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Anyone have the part number by chance?? I'll look too!

Thanks Jar!!
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:44 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Courtesy Parts
[25320U] CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH

25325-Z34001
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH - 370Z (Z34) 2009+ :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:51 PM   #44 (permalink)
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This is interesting. I will point Pintsize towards this thread because she is having what seems to be a very similar issue except in a 7AT. Push brake, push start button, car goes to ACC instead of turning over. The fact that it goes to ACC means that you are correctly pushing the clutch (or brake in 7AT), but very strange that it doesn't turn on.
Not necessarily. You can go into ACC and ON without depressing the clutch/brake. The fact that it's cycling through without starting makes me believe that the clutch switch is probably giving out. That switch gives the signal to go past "ON" and actually start the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
Well I changed the ignition switch, no difference. Then I put the 10A fuse for the steering lock assembly back in the IPDM, no difference....

I am starting to think that maybe I have a defective clutch switch as the culprit. I know it's fully engaging the switch, but maybe the switch is defective or faulty.
My money is on the clutch switch as well. I used to have an '08 Altima and they had similar issues as you described and it ended up being a faulty brake switch (Autos). Swap a new one in and it fired up like normal.

I still don't believe removing the fuse is the cause of the delay either. My Altima had an occasional delay as well and I did not disable the steering lock on that car. Z does the same thing.
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:56 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Not necessarily. You can go into ACC and ON without depressing the clutch/brake. The fact that it's cycling through without starting makes me believe that the clutch switch is probably giving out. That switch gives the signal to go past "ON" and actually start the car.
I realized this after posting...
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