Car won't start!...and it's not the Steering Lock...

stealth23

used Contact cleaner spray, sprayed it all over the clutch switch. still had issues starting the next day

ghostbusters

But I can confirm in my australian 2013 370Z that the issue comes from the clutch interlock switch that was shown on page 3 of this thread. Genuine replacement parts are coming from Japan which will take 4-6 weeks but it was only Aud30 or so. The mechanic has cleaned the two connecting rods thing in the switch and car starts up now without any hesitation.

Some final notes:
If you're experiencing the constant cycling between lock, ACC, On and off without anything else happening, this clutch interlock switch is probably dieing.
If you're having slow cranking, consider a new battery with a minimum of 582 CCA. I went with PowerSonic PNS70LMF batteries at my local Bridgestone Tire Centre and it fits fine in the battery compartment. MIND YOU, the car needs constant power even when swapping batteries, otherwise you'll have to factory reset the ECU at your local Nissan to get the windows to close up when you close your door.
Not much I can say about the steering lock mechanism except that you should have power steering function i.e. no steering lock when the car is on ON, otherwise get that checked.

Hope this helps!

JARblue

First, let me say I am very happy you got your issue sorted out

But the statement above is a bit ridiculous. Just make sure windows are down when you swap batteries and do the window reset procedure after. There is absolutely no need to go to a dealer for a factory reset of the ECU

I just had to replace mine the other week. I did it in the auto parts store parking lot with no issues.

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normmynorm

Experienced this a few weeks ago for the first time and didn't experience it again until this weekend. Driven for a couple days now and it hasn't happened again. I haven't cleaned or replaced it yet.

Don't know if this is attested to when the clutch and csc was upgraded to the Z1 clutch, flywheel and elim kit (which is awesome) or the clutch pedal being adjusted and helper spring removed or it going from 30 degrees to 80 in a week or it just plain being dirty as mentioned. So, there's that for a run on sentence.

Already experienced the luxury of the steering lock and csc failing haha. Fun times =)


Went ahead and ordered the clutch pedal switch and plan to replace it.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/switch...ch-p-6225.html

FairladyZ10PG

^Just a heads up.
I'd advise that you change both switches.
There are two switches and changing only one did not solve the issue for me.
When I replaced both switches, that's when the problem went away for good.

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Bad Boy

How the hell did you remove it? I'm having the same issues and All I was able to do was unplug it. I tried using a wrench to get to the little nut but it wasn't budging, the metal frame surrounding the whole thing was bending a little so I didn't wanna force it...
I think Ima just take it to the dealer...

mults

For the clutch pedal switch, there is a welded 14mm square on the bracket that needs to be held with a wrench while you loosen the jam nut on the switch. Mine was tight as heck and it took a little bit to get it loose. I changed the one for the clutch pedal 3 weeks ago (about $26) and the issue went away for good...

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mults
40th Anniversary 'Z', 312.06HP/260.58TQ (Dynosty EcuTek Tune)
Build Date/Number: 1/27/2010 #706
Berk HFC + CBE, R2C CAI, Clear Bra, Cleveland Z Club

Bad Boy

To be clear... both the outside welded and the inside nut are 14mm?
I did notice that the one on the outside is welded, but must it really be held in place if its welded?
I just went through my tool box and have all sorts of different wrenches except the 14mm
I tried using the adjustable wrench, but it never stays held on...
Plus how the hell did you guys manage to work with such confined space? The smallest wrench I can find is 6" and even that's too long...

jadeb0x

Same issue that I've been dealing with, thanks for the info!

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www.jadecrew.com
Volk Racing // MXP // Espelir // Project Kics

wheee!

It's a PITA for sure. Keep in mind a new switch doesn't mean the problem is gone for good. The new switches are the same as the old ones and they will fail the same as the originals. Eventually, you will need to sand the connections or replace the switch again.

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SouthArk370Z

Sanding the contacts is not the best solution. The contacts should be burnished (polished). Sanding leaves scratches that promote corrosion and erosion. You can get a contact burnishing tool at most electrical supply stores for $5 or so.

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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

wheee!

true. I used emery paper. Almost the same. Burnishing sticks are the proper tool

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SouthArk370Z

Emery is not a terrible choice (I've used it more than once on ignition points when a burnisher wasn't handy), it's just that the diamond dust found on most burnishers does a much better job. If emery is all you have, go for it.

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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

Umarali

So i came to this thread and my problem was fixed after i opened switched cleaned and put back, its been couple of weeks and it has given issues even once. I used dermel tool from harbor freight i bought for abt $7 and used bronze wire on it to buff the contacts first and then used the cotton buff part also came with dermel tool to buff it smooth. I took some pictures of switch to give idea what it looks like.








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Trek

Its been a long time since I’ve owned a car with a mt, does starting the car in neutral still bypass the switch?