Originally Posted by MX52Z Don't want to take anything away from the OP's glory but just as a second option, these are the bulbs I ordered for my particular project.
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04-23-2013, 02:21 PM | #16 (permalink) | |
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04-23-2013, 03:23 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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im totally in.. thats freaking awesome
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04-23-2013, 04:29 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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I agree. Vettes have a really nice and bright amber that are hard to miss. I hope eomeone else does this mod with amber DRLs so we can have a look. I'm outta money to experiment.
Similarly, our Zs have dim white incandescent bulbs for front running lights but I got more powerful amber LEDs on their way to fix that. |
04-23-2013, 04:57 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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04-23-2013, 05:58 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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I think if we use the switchback 7443 bulb and have the positive (+) wire of the white LED connect to the relay and tap the relay to the battery and the sensing circuit to the cigarette's fuse and get the power from there (since it always power on when you turn on your car). Another way we can do is to connect the 7443 bulb to the cigratette's fuse without the relay. That way we can have the 7443 bulb (white LED) on when we power up the car and still have the signal (amber LED) working. This is just my 2cent. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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04-23-2013, 11:13 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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I have a question... When you turn the actual headlights on do those lights shut off? I think it will look pretty sick to have those on together with the headlights.
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04-24-2013, 01:13 PM | #24 (permalink) | ||
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The Z uses a 7440 single filament bulb, obviously just for the turn signal. (Other cars use a 7443 dual-filament bulb to as both turn sigal and parking/running light). So if you swap the Z's 7440 with a 7443 bulb, you're basically adding another set of bulbs within the bulbs that you can wire as you see fit, either to come on with the ignition or wired to a switch in the cabin. So the premis here is to have a bulb that acts as a regular amber turn signal but also add white DRL function and that's why "switchback" bulbs are mentioned here, because they are one color for one function (white for DRL) but then switch back to another color for a different function (amber turn). Some switchback bulbs feature a very powerful forward element such as a white, 5W Cree for DRL while using smaller and less powerful LED arrays of amber for turn signaling. As someone also mentioned, it would be nice to have amber DRLs like Vettes have so in that case, you'll just look for a dual mode 7443 amber bulb that flashes amber when turning but also glows amber for DRL. By the way, this also applies to cars with 1156 (single filament) bulbs that one can customize with 1157 (dual filament) bulbs and harnesses. I've done this on other cars and was preparing to do my Z until the OP created this great thread. In order to use 7443 bulbs, the wiring harness has to support that third wire. Usually, you can just get the harness for $2 each but according to the OP, the Z already has that third wire. Since I haven't done this yet, I'm hoping the OP gets back soon with some picts because I'd like to see what he did with the stock wiring before I go taking mine apart. Last edited by MX52Z; 04-24-2013 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Typos |
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04-24-2013, 07:28 PM | #25 (permalink) |
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I likes this. Sub'd
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04-24-2013, 10:46 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Thanks for all the feedback and reps! Sorry about the delay in responding; hopefully this covers your questions. Like with most things DIY, you should have some basic understanding of vehicles and their electrical systems before attempting to modify them away from their original state. If you are doing this job and get stick, just send me a PM and I will try to answer back promptly! Remember you can refer back to the original post for some of the photos in these steps!
DRL Write up This conversion replaces the existing turn signal bulb in the headlights on the 370Z with an LED turn signal bulb which “switchback” to Daytime Running Lamps. The LEDs do all the work of detecting and switching between the functions and if wired correctly will be on with the parking lights. This means that they will also be on when the headlights are on or in “Auto” mode when it’s dark. The OEM bulb socket is wired for a dual filament bulb which is not utilized in the US market cars but can be easily connected to the parking lamp circuit with the unused 3rd wire. Since you will have access to the current parking lamps in the headlights it’s a good opportunity to swap the bulbs for LEDs at the same time too! 1) Remove front wheels and the forward plastic fender well covers exposing the rear of the headlamps. Plastic covers have body panel retaining clips which require a small flathead screwdriver to pop the center lock portion out, and then pull the retaining clip out. 2) Locate the turn signal and parking lamp bases and pop them out of headlight enclosure. 3) Using a multimeter determine which is the positive feed for the parking lamp and tap wire for DRL power. You can use wire taps, splice the wire and solder or cut the wire and use connectors. I would suggest solder and heat shrink personally as it will be the most reliable. I ran the new feed wire through the existing wire shielding for the turn signal base to keep it clean. 4) Connect the new parking lamp feed wire to the unused third wire on the turn signal base. You won’t need to run ground as it already has shared ground. This will feed the DRL portion of the new LED switchback bulb and give positive power to the now used 3rd wire when the parking lights or headlights are on. 5) Swap the original turn signal bulb for the LED Switchback bulb and test your parking lights. The DRL portion should be lit. Then test your turn signal and ensure the LED switches to flashing amber, then back to DRL when turn signal is stopped. You can also turn your parking lamps on and then turn the hazards on and off to see them both “switchback” at the same time. 6) Install the transistor between the positive and negative wires for the turn signal circuit. Each side will need one as Left and Right are separate circuits. This transistor will get rid of the fast flash from converting to LED and is optional. You can zip tie this somewhere with adequate ventilation or some guys go as far as frame mounting it with thermal paste and some screws. 7) Button it all back up and that’s it! Parts needed: Two Switchback 7443 base LEDs – These are available in a variety of configurations but I went with the ones that flash amber while turning and return to white. The other alternative is flashing between white and amber while turning but I felt this was confusing to other drivers and defeated the cool transition part of the switchback LED. The link is below and I took a screenshot of the correct ones I purchased since the page is super busy with various bulbs. The one I went for is the “AO” meaning Amber Off as the pattern it flashes. http://autolumination.com/7443_7440.htm Two 6 ohm, 50 watt Transistors which I bought on eBay. The current listing is listed below but over time will obviously expire. Just search for “led load resistor fix” or something along those lines. I added a screenshot of those as well. Load Resistor Fix LED Bulb Fast Flash Turn Signal Blink | eBay A couple more photos showing the above steps: This first photo I posed in the original post shows the unused third wire on the turn signal base that you will be tapping into (step 4) so look to the original post for this photo. This photo shows the positive tap off of the parking lamp wire (dark green) with my new wire (light green) run through the oem wiring loom to the turn signal base (step 4). Don’t rely on my wiring colors to identify your positive lead as they are not always the same. This photo shows the new light green wire run through the oem loom to the base. The next step is to connect it to the unused third wire (step 4) |
04-25-2013, 09:56 AM | #30 (permalink) |
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Beautiful! Very classy looking, not over the top and not trying to be a BMW. Sub'd to try one day.
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