underbody/engine block rust prevention?

ADmaster71690

I saw a bunch of threads about underbody or engine block rust that some people are getting, and (though I don't have a Z yet) I have noticed over the years that my vehicles have a LOT of rust in both locations.

How should one go about preventing this? Also, if rust is already present, how should you go about removing it?

kannibul

Sandblast the whole car, then have it powdercoated.


(the engine doesn't rust, it's aluminum)

CBRich

I'm pretty good about keeping up around here and I saw one oxidation thread. Links please.

Alexus

Unless you get harsh winters in a city where the plowmen like to spread a crap load of corrosive rock salt and calcium on the streets, or if you're in a coastal city where you get a lot of sea breeze and fog, you will not need rust proofing or any sort of undercoating. That being said, it's definitely not a bad thing to be safe rather than sorry, but in all honesty today's cars don't rust like they did, heck, two or three years back. If you keep a good coat of wax on your sheet metal and don't let your car sit unattended, outdoors, for too long you shouldn't have any problems. Undercarriage oxidation will eventually occur, but any rotting of the rocker panels, frame or sub-frame is highly unlikely in this day and age.

If your car won't see any winter, you shouldn't have to worry about it.

__________________
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nogoodname

^^^ for us Montrealers, where the roads are super salty during winters. a good coat of underbody spray will help out alot.

ADmaster71690

Yeah we get a TON of salt on the roads in the winter (I'm in Michigan). My material science professor also told us the Great Lakes weather will increase the rate of rust as well. However winter driving with the Z is not going to happen with me.

Do the underbody treatments really work? Is there some kind of protectant I can spray on that will slow the rust down?

Thanks for the responses.

nogoodname

well, my father bought a car in 89 and no rust on underboby. only surface rust starting to come on the body (fender flare area) now bc we stopped rust proofing 3 yrs ago. driven every winter also.

Alexus

I honestly don't think that this is something you can do yourself. Well, you can do anything yourself, but this is something I think you can seriously f up if you don't do it right. I'm not exactly sure what the exact product is (RustCheck and DuraCheck come to mind right off the bat in terms of names, though), but is usually ranges from a natural bees wax product for you environment-sensitive folks to a chemical which is sprayed under the car and through holes that are drilled by the rustproofing company, fills in any crevices and cures into a gummy substance. The bees wax hardens and generally peels off during the summer, which requires a reapplication every winter (generally costs $100 or so if you know people) and as far as I know the latter gummy chemical is permanent or applied in 3-year intervals. I'm not entirely certain.

Oh, and make sure you stay away from rustproofing shops such as Metropolitan and Krown. Their technicians are generally teenagers and I don't know about you but I wouldn't want any teen anywhere near my car with a drill.

I know this stuff called POR-15, which you can buy at any AutoZone, Canadian Tire, Wal-Mart and apply yourself. But in all honesty, the chances of seriously f'ing up aren't worth the $100 you'll be saving.

__________________
"The object of war is not to die for your country but to make the other bastard die for his."
-General George S. Patton Jr., 1885-1945

rackley

I checked under my car about two days after I got it and there was already rust on part of the steering linkage. I have pics back home.. I couldn't believe it.

nogoodname

a pro should it. i use chemical spray for body parts and a tar like material for underbody. underbody sprayed rarely afterwards.
rust on the underbody comes from rock chips dinging it also.

Alexus

Normal, honestly. I was appalled to find that my brand new Mazda 3 had some surface rust on the hubs when I removed the wheels to put on the winter set, but then I remembered that pretty much every car at the shop, from Geo Metros to brand new BMWs, had this.

__________________
"The object of war is not to die for your country but to make the other bastard die for his."
-General George S. Patton Jr., 1885-1945

Modshack

Perfectly normal. All cast iron parts will rust. The tie rod, hub areas, and brake rotors are all cast iron. Don't like it? Wire brush and coat with POR15 , Rustoleum, or other coating..

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CAN-ZED

any recommendations on which product/company to use for rustproofing
want to get it done before winter starts
living in Canada the amount of salt on the roads is pretty bad
never done it to any previous vehilces
heard the oil spray is messy and not as good as some other methods
Thoughts?

mrarroyo

POR15, have used it in restoration work in various old aircooled VW's and it works great.

POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks