Steering Wheel Lock?
 

I can't figure out of I am having this or not... everything points to it except one detail, my steering wheel isn't actually locked.

Every thread I have read thus far, it died in the lock position. Mine is as free as a bird... but the car won't start.

I removed the fuse for it, but that didn't do anything. I tried out my other key fob, used the fobgina, swapped batteries with the key fobs... No dice there.

I pulled the fuse for the remote start that was inside the cabin... just to see what it would do. [nothing]


The key light comes on, but pushing the ignition does nothing. I thought pulling the fuse by the battery would fix it since my steering wheel isn't actually locked.


Thoughts?

Really bummed about this... in October I had the clutch slave go out... Beginning of December I hit a raccoon and messed the front bumper up... Now this.



--Wasn't positive what section to post this in--

And, just to add to the list...

I unhooked the battery to let the ECU reset... Still nothing.

Did you actually try hitting the SL while tying to start the car?

Beat the heck out of the steering wheel... Up and down with it. From what I read it seemed like that was a fix to get it unlocked, but mine isn't locked.

Maybe I should try directly hitting it?

The SLU can fail in a partially retracted state leaving the wheel unlocked but disabling start.
The pin can retract all the way, but not make the microswitches properly. Once again, wheel is unlocked but car won't start.

Edit: Since you disconnected the battery:
You may need to reset the auto window function. IIRC, roll window down and hold switch for at least three seconds, then roll window up and hold switch for at least three seconds.
You'll probably have to reprogram the stations on your radio.
The engine may run rough until the ECM goes through a re-learning sequence.

^thats what I meant

Yes. Some ppl have reported that a few light taps work. Others have had to pound the crap out of it. Some never did get it to act right.

Good luck.

Didn't seem to do anything.

Did notice that now the windows need to be reset... car was outside... Thankfully I was able to push it into the garage... Now the driver side window is stuck down.


*sigh*

It's going to be awesome to pay $500+ for a part.. just so I can pull a fuse to ignore it.

The window reset is b/c you disconnected the battery,but let see if we can save you $500

Yea, I've dealt with the window's before when I was installing my audio stuff. Forgot about it when I disconnected the battery.

It's one of those if I could just get it to ACC... that fuse would be gone.

May just keep trying tapping/hitting/pounding it to see if I can just get it to switch just once.




*edit*
Btw, I really appreciate the help.

If banging on the SLU doesn't work, someone reported that they were able to remove the SLU (DIYs on this site; if you can get the IPDM out to remove the fuse, you can remove the SLU) and manually poke the pin to the retracted position.

See comment above to reset windows. IIRC, you have to do it to both windows.

My dealer quoted me $810 for a SLU this morning while I was getting new hatch springs. :(

Hmm, I will have to give that a try tomorrow.

FVCK THAT:shakes head:

LOL.

Judging by some of the other prices posted on this site, $810 is probably the undiscounted MSRP. Might be a bit cheaper if paying for installation. Still outrageous for something that should be recalled.

I'm not buying one, just checking the price out of curiosity when getting a quote on the ambient temp sensor. $72 for the sensor, but mine just has a broken mounting prong, so I'm going to see how nice of a job I can do with tie-wraps. If it's too ugly, I'll see if I can find one online for cheaper. :)

Links I checked earlier today have the part at around $550.

I can't believe that I've seen dealers wanting $1400-$1600 to fix it.

I can they are trying to stick it in your :icon23:

Finally removed it from the car.. now I'm just trying to figure out how to get it open... Hmm...

You don't have to open it just try and push back the small metal piece plug it back in and start the car.

Toooo late.

So, this is where I am at.

I opened it up to reveal the switches. I press those down.. car goes to ACC, I remove the fuse... Doesn't work.

I guess it needs those switches to be down all the time for the fuse removal to work. The fuse removal just tells it not to engage anymore... right?

The key has to be in the on position then remove the fuse,but I have never done it this way with the steering lock open.

This maybe correct

Yep, it was... I just had the board by itself hooked up so I could push the switches down and it worked... but when I let go of them it wouldn't.

So, I put the board back into the housing [minus the bottom plate] and now it works. I made sure that the locking bolt was in the position to keep the switches pressed.


Think I should take pictures of all of this while I have it open?

Yes, please. TIA

Will do.

In the process of that..


Good thing I'm a photographer... haha.

Very cool if this works to get the steering lock to work again to remove the fuse when the hitting with hammer method doesn't work :tiphat:

Alright, here is what I did. I'll explain my situation over.

My steering wheel lock failed, but it was still unlocked... so the wheel wasn't stuck. What happened was there are 2 switches inside of the box, that when pressed, let the computer know that the steering wheel is unlocked and the car can start. Well, apparently in my situation the bolt didn't make it down all the way to trigger these.

I first removed the board from the box and tried to star the car that way with the switches pressed... It worked, went to ACC... I removed the fuse and tried again without pressing down on the switches and it didn't work. So you have to have pressure on those switches. All the fuse does is keeps it from ever engaging again.

So, I go investigate the box, and I see that the locking bold wasn't down all the way... I turned the gear so that it was in the full unlocked position. Put the board back in, screwed it back and tested it... Success.

I put everything back together, connected it back to the car... just reused the security screws that you remove to take it off[tightening them back with the angled needle nose pliers.] And all is good, saved $500+. It will never engage again. There is a chance I could have tried to fix it, but I never wanted to deal with this again.

The hardest part was opening it up. Just be careful not to ruin the board on the inside. [ aka, don't just go jabbing a screwdriver into it... you still need that board to be intact.]

Here are the pictures.

-The box.

http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...xGSTP5K-XL.jpg


-I removed the screw and what was like a spring loaded lock, not %100 sure what it did.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...JXLndpj-XL.jpg


-To get it open, it wasn't pretty... I just used a flat head screwdriver and worked it open.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...s4VjTfr-XL.jpg


-Bottom removed, there are 2 screws here. Need a T10 torx screwdriver or bit to remove them. Same goes for the screw that was on top.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...gMdPjkx-XL.jpg


-These are the "switches"
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...29jSZnG-XL.jpg


-Board removed, showing the switches.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...dVdC46j-XL.jpg


-Board removed from box, Arrow is showing the position that the locking bolt needs to be in to be all the way down.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...WtKgvZF-XL.jpg


-Again without the box.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...Sv99n3Z-XL.jpg


http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...jNkkC44-XL.jpg


Then the box empty, with the exception of the black plastic bits, which part of it is like a spring loaded lock.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...MQPwHL9-XL.jpg


Hope this helps someone save some money.

Wow! Fantastic pics. Thanks for posting.

I got back from Afghanistan yesterday at 9am and this happened to me in a parking lot at 4pm stay there with the car until it could get towed to nissan at 9pm definitely ruined my day. Now I get to go the dealership and find out if they will cover it. My car is 29,xxx miles 2010 Nismo. They said my warranty is until Jan 31, 2013 so hopefully ill be good we'll see... So the problem is the steering lock unit? As OP stated steering wheel isn't locked but key light in dash is on and nothing happens at all. Replaced fob battery as well. Wish me luck

Under 36,000 miles should be covered in Warranty. I tried the battery thing also. No Luck. Mine happened yesterday at 45,000 miles. With dealer, somewhere around $900 installed.
However, with the steering wheel not locked, we were able to move the car and load it on a flat bed. How many of these before we go to Nissan and speak harshly?.
Also, thanks for your service.

Thanks you! Ya they just called me back and said it was the steering wheel lock and they would cover it under warranty. Of course they don't have the part so if they get it at 4 they may have it done otherwise maybe tomorrow... Atleast they're paying for it!

That's good. I would suggest going ahead and pulling the fuse so you never run into this again.

Ya can someone post a picture of the fuse!

Nissan says not a common problem but the part I need, 48700-JF00D, is back-ordered.
Need to get the Maxima people and 370Z people, and evidently the Juke people as well, together on this. No, I don't know how.

The fuse is in the IPDM-E/R, located next to the battery. Fuse locations are shown on the IPDM cover.
There is more than one DIY on this site. See http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...heel-lock.html for a list of threads/posts about SLU failures and fixes.

This is what I sent Nissan USA.
I have owned Nissans since 1983. A 1983 280 ZX Turbo, a 1991 300ZX TT, a 1993 300ZXTT. I owned the 1993 for 15 years and 225,000 miles. I now own a 2009 370Z. Like many 370Z, Maxima and Juke owners, I am now experiencing a Steering Lock Unit problem. Since I am past 36,000miles the cost will come out of my pocket. The GTR was recalled for this problem but not the 370Z or Maxima owners. Nissan says this is not common but the replacement part is back ordered and the 370Z and Maxima forums are abuzz with this issue. My previous cars were well made and there was never a problem like this. The 370Z owners who have the problem below 36,000 miles are getting the problem taken care of under warranty. I, a senior citizen, am at 45,000 miles so the cost goes to me. Shame on Nissan for not recalling the 370Z's (2009 -2011) and the Maximas for this issue. The dealers say they see this problem on Maximas but because the 370Z is a bit more rare, not so much. You are turning your cars into German junk. No problem with Oil temperatures but you now offer an oil cooler. No problems with brakes but the car has been re-designed to better cool the brakes. This is my last Nissan.

okay, i just got this problem tonight at 30,600 mileage and it ruin my day. i did research and read many ppl saying to remove the fus 48 next to the battery. I did that with the ground and battery remove. after removing it, i plug the ground and power back to the battery, however nothing happened... my steeling wheel is still lock.. i then notice that my battery no longer get a spark, however all power in my car are working. light are working, dome and back lights are working.. i just cant get the steeling lock remove or get the car to accl or start. plz help. i even replaced the battery for a new 1 and there's still no strong spark./

The steering lock must be unlocked (retracted) before you remove the fuse. Try turning the car on and hit the lock with your fist or something else until you hear it retract.

Edit: If everything is powered up, don't worry about the absence of a spark.

Thanks a lot for the info. I read up that there's a recall for this problem, but I do not want to toll it since my car is lowered. About the accl, how do I get that to work w/o pounding on my push start? Also when I remove the fuse 48, does the ground and power plug have to be connected to the battery or can I do it w/0 it being connected/

Don't pound on the push start, pound on the steering lock (located on right side of steering column).

You can remove the fuse with the battery connected but I wouldn't recommend it. You only have to remove one of the battery terminals. Electrically, it doesn't really matter which one but removing the negative is safer (less chance of shorting the battery).

There are several pull-the-SLU-fuse DIYs on this site that should clear everything up for you. Use search or see the link in my sig.

confirming
 

hello, i realize this thread is OLD but I bought a 2010 roadster back in June 2011. I have about 36K miles on it now and was just reading these threads on the issue with the steering lock. I thought i would be try to pull the fuse as it seemed the most logical course of action.. and less time consuming. Problem, when i went to look at the fuse box itself the picture posted here is completely different than mine. i also last read some issued being reported with the stall start. Mine is automatic with paddles for optional manual shifting. help.. yes i am female who is just seeking clarity.. and not wanting to be stranded with a bill.