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That's good. I would suggest going ahead and pulling the fuse so you never run into this again. |
Ya can someone post a picture of the fuse!
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Nissan says not a common problem but the part I need, 48700-JF00D, is back-ordered.
Need to get the Maxima people and 370Z people, and evidently the Juke people as well, together on this. No, I don't know how. |
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There is more than one DIY on this site. See http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...heel-lock.html for a list of threads/posts about SLU failures and fixes. |
This is what I sent Nissan USA.
I have owned Nissans since 1983. A 1983 280 ZX Turbo, a 1991 300ZX TT, a 1993 300ZXTT. I owned the 1993 for 15 years and 225,000 miles. I now own a 2009 370Z. Like many 370Z, Maxima and Juke owners, I am now experiencing a Steering Lock Unit problem. Since I am past 36,000miles the cost will come out of my pocket. The GTR was recalled for this problem but not the 370Z or Maxima owners. Nissan says this is not common but the replacement part is back ordered and the 370Z and Maxima forums are abuzz with this issue. My previous cars were well made and there was never a problem like this. The 370Z owners who have the problem below 36,000 miles are getting the problem taken care of under warranty. I, a senior citizen, am at 45,000 miles so the cost goes to me. Shame on Nissan for not recalling the 370Z's (2009 -2011) and the Maximas for this issue. The dealers say they see this problem on Maximas but because the 370Z is a bit more rare, not so much. You are turning your cars into German junk. No problem with Oil temperatures but you now offer an oil cooler. No problems with brakes but the car has been re-designed to better cool the brakes. This is my last Nissan. |
okay, i just got this problem tonight at 30,600 mileage and it ruin my day. i did research and read many ppl saying to remove the fus 48 next to the battery. I did that with the ground and battery remove. after removing it, i plug the ground and power back to the battery, however nothing happened... my steeling wheel is still lock.. i then notice that my battery no longer get a spark, however all power in my car are working. light are working, dome and back lights are working.. i just cant get the steeling lock remove or get the car to accl or start. plz help. i even replaced the battery for a new 1 and there's still no strong spark./
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Edit: If everything is powered up, don't worry about the absence of a spark. |
Thanks a lot for the info. I read up that there's a recall for this problem, but I do not want to toll it since my car is lowered. About the accl, how do I get that to work w/o pounding on my push start? Also when I remove the fuse 48, does the ground and power plug have to be connected to the battery or can I do it w/0 it being connected/
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You can remove the fuse with the battery connected but I wouldn't recommend it. You only have to remove one of the battery terminals. Electrically, it doesn't really matter which one but removing the negative is safer (less chance of shorting the battery). There are several pull-the-SLU-fuse DIYs on this site that should clear everything up for you. Use search or see the link in my sig. |
confirming
hello, i realize this thread is OLD but I bought a 2010 roadster back in June 2011. I have about 36K miles on it now and was just reading these threads on the issue with the steering lock. I thought i would be try to pull the fuse as it seemed the most logical course of action.. and less time consuming. Problem, when i went to look at the fuse box itself the picture posted here is completely different than mine. i also last read some issued being reported with the stall start. Mine is automatic with paddles for optional manual shifting. help.. yes i am female who is just seeking clarity.. and not wanting to be stranded with a bill.
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another quick way is to cut brown wire feeding to the steering lock itself per member fritz.
u have to cut it while the car is on just like when pulling the fuse. |
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