Steering Wheel Lock?

Parkerman

Toooo late.

So, this is where I am at.

I opened it up to reveal the switches. I press those down.. car goes to ACC, I remove the fuse... Doesn't work.

I guess it needs those switches to be down all the time for the fuse removal to work. The fuse removal just tells it not to engage anymore... right?

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Baer383

The key has to be in the on position then remove the fuse,but I have never done it this way with the steering lock open.

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

Baer383

This maybe correct

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

Parkerman

Yep, it was... I just had the board by itself hooked up so I could push the switches down and it worked... but when I let go of them it wouldn't.

So, I put the board back into the housing [minus the bottom plate] and now it works. I made sure that the locking bolt was in the position to keep the switches pressed.


Think I should take pictures of all of this while I have it open?

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Parkerman

Alright, here is what I did. I'll explain my situation over.

My steering wheel lock failed, but it was still unlocked... so the wheel wasn't stuck. What happened was there are 2 switches inside of the box, that when pressed, let the computer know that the steering wheel is unlocked and the car can start. Well, apparently in my situation the bolt didn't make it down all the way to trigger these.

I first removed the board from the box and tried to star the car that way with the switches pressed... It worked, went to ACC... I removed the fuse and tried again without pressing down on the switches and it didn't work. So you have to have pressure on those switches. All the fuse does is keeps it from ever engaging again.

So, I go investigate the box, and I see that the locking bold wasn't down all the way... I turned the gear so that it was in the full unlocked position. Put the board back in, screwed it back and tested it... Success.

I put everything back together, connected it back to the car... just reused the security screws that you remove to take it off[tightening them back with the angled needle nose pliers.] And all is good, saved $500+. It will never engage again. There is a chance I could have tried to fix it, but I never wanted to deal with this again.

The hardest part was opening it up. Just be careful not to ruin the board on the inside. [ aka, don't just go jabbing a screwdriver into it... you still need that board to be intact.]

Here are the pictures.

-The box.




-I removed the screw and what was like a spring loaded lock, not %100 sure what it did.



-To get it open, it wasn't pretty... I just used a flat head screwdriver and worked it open.



-Bottom removed, there are 2 screws here. Need a T10 torx screwdriver or bit to remove them. Same goes for the screw that was on top.



-These are the "switches"



-Board removed, showing the switches.



-Board removed from box, Arrow is showing the position that the locking bolt needs to be in to be all the way down.



-Again without the box.






Then the box empty, with the exception of the black plastic bits, which part of it is like a spring loaded lock.



Hope this helps someone save some money.

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SouthArk370Z

Wow! Fantastic pics. Thanks for posting.

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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

NismoZ370

I got back from Afghanistan yesterday at 9am and this happened to me in a parking lot at 4pm stay there with the car until it could get towed to nissan at 9pm definitely ruined my day. Now I get to go the dealership and find out if they will cover it. My car is 29,xxx miles 2010 Nismo. They said my warranty is until Jan 31, 2013 so hopefully ill be good we'll see... So the problem is the steering lock unit? As OP stated steering wheel isn't locked but key light in dash is on and nothing happens at all. Replaced fob battery as well. Wish me luck

blackbird

Under 36,000 miles should be covered in Warranty. I tried the battery thing also. No Luck. Mine happened yesterday at 45,000 miles. With dealer, somewhere around $900 installed.
However, with the steering wheel not locked, we were able to move the car and load it on a flat bed. How many of these before we go to Nissan and speak harshly?.
Also, thanks for your service.

NismoZ370

Thanks you! Ya they just called me back and said it was the steering wheel lock and they would cover it under warranty. Of course they don't have the part so if they get it at 4 they may have it done otherwise maybe tomorrow... Atleast they're paying for it!

Parkerman

That's good. I would suggest going ahead and pulling the fuse so you never run into this again.

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NismoZ370

Ya can someone post a picture of the fuse!

SouthArk370Z

The fuse is in the IPDM-E/R, located next to the battery. Fuse locations are shown on the IPDM cover.
There is more than one DIY on this site. See Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock for a list of threads/posts about SLU failures and fixes.

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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

blackbird

Nissan says not a common problem but the part I need, 48700-JF00D, is back-ordered.
Need to get the Maxima people and 370Z people, and evidently the Juke people as well, together on this. No, I don't know how.

blackbird

This is what I sent Nissan USA.
I have owned Nissans since 1983. A 1983 280 ZX Turbo, a 1991 300ZX TT, a 1993 300ZXTT. I owned the 1993 for 15 years and 225,000 miles. I now own a 2009 370Z. Like many 370Z, Maxima and Juke owners, I am now experiencing a Steering Lock Unit problem. Since I am past 36,000miles the cost will come out of my pocket. The GTR was recalled for this problem but not the 370Z or Maxima owners. Nissan says this is not common but the replacement part is back ordered and the 370Z and Maxima forums are abuzz with this issue. My previous cars were well made and there was never a problem like this. The 370Z owners who have the problem below 36,000 miles are getting the problem taken care of under warranty. I, a senior citizen, am at 45,000 miles so the cost goes to me. Shame on Nissan for not recalling the 370Z's (2009 -2011) and the Maximas for this issue. The dealers say they see this problem on Maximas but because the 370Z is a bit more rare, not so much. You are turning your cars into German junk. No problem with Oil temperatures but you now offer an oil cooler. No problems with brakes but the car has been re-designed to better cool the brakes. This is my last Nissan.

wildstrykex

okay, i just got this problem tonight at 30,600 mileage and it ruin my day. i did research and read many ppl saying to remove the fus 48 next to the battery. I did that with the ground and battery remove. after removing it, i plug the ground and power back to the battery, however nothing happened... my steeling wheel is still lock.. i then notice that my battery no longer get a spark, however all power in my car are working. light are working, dome and back lights are working.. i just cant get the steeling lock remove or get the car to accl or start. plz help. i even replaced the battery for a new 1 and there's still no strong spark./