I can they are trying to stick it in your :icon23:

Finally removed it from the car.. now I'm just trying to figure out how to get it open... Hmm...

You don't have to open it just try and push back the small metal piece plug it back in and start the car.

Toooo late.

So, this is where I am at.

I opened it up to reveal the switches. I press those down.. car goes to ACC, I remove the fuse... Doesn't work.

I guess it needs those switches to be down all the time for the fuse removal to work. The fuse removal just tells it not to engage anymore... right?

The key has to be in the on position then remove the fuse,but I have never done it this way with the steering lock open.

This maybe correct

Yep, it was... I just had the board by itself hooked up so I could push the switches down and it worked... but when I let go of them it wouldn't.

So, I put the board back into the housing [minus the bottom plate] and now it works. I made sure that the locking bolt was in the position to keep the switches pressed.


Think I should take pictures of all of this while I have it open?

Yes, please. TIA

Will do.

In the process of that..


Good thing I'm a photographer... haha.

Very cool if this works to get the steering lock to work again to remove the fuse when the hitting with hammer method doesn't work :tiphat:

Alright, here is what I did. I'll explain my situation over.

My steering wheel lock failed, but it was still unlocked... so the wheel wasn't stuck. What happened was there are 2 switches inside of the box, that when pressed, let the computer know that the steering wheel is unlocked and the car can start. Well, apparently in my situation the bolt didn't make it down all the way to trigger these.

I first removed the board from the box and tried to star the car that way with the switches pressed... It worked, went to ACC... I removed the fuse and tried again without pressing down on the switches and it didn't work. So you have to have pressure on those switches. All the fuse does is keeps it from ever engaging again.

So, I go investigate the box, and I see that the locking bold wasn't down all the way... I turned the gear so that it was in the full unlocked position. Put the board back in, screwed it back and tested it... Success.

I put everything back together, connected it back to the car... just reused the security screws that you remove to take it off[tightening them back with the angled needle nose pliers.] And all is good, saved $500+. It will never engage again. There is a chance I could have tried to fix it, but I never wanted to deal with this again.

The hardest part was opening it up. Just be careful not to ruin the board on the inside. [ aka, don't just go jabbing a screwdriver into it... you still need that board to be intact.]

Here are the pictures.

-The box.

http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...xGSTP5K-XL.jpg


-I removed the screw and what was like a spring loaded lock, not %100 sure what it did.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...JXLndpj-XL.jpg


-To get it open, it wasn't pretty... I just used a flat head screwdriver and worked it open.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...s4VjTfr-XL.jpg


-Bottom removed, there are 2 screws here. Need a T10 torx screwdriver or bit to remove them. Same goes for the screw that was on top.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...gMdPjkx-XL.jpg


-These are the "switches"
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...29jSZnG-XL.jpg


-Board removed, showing the switches.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...dVdC46j-XL.jpg


-Board removed from box, Arrow is showing the position that the locking bolt needs to be in to be all the way down.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...WtKgvZF-XL.jpg


-Again without the box.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...Sv99n3Z-XL.jpg


http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...jNkkC44-XL.jpg


Then the box empty, with the exception of the black plastic bits, which part of it is like a spring loaded lock.
http://www.parkerphotog.com/photos/i...MQPwHL9-XL.jpg


Hope this helps someone save some money.

Wow! Fantastic pics. Thanks for posting.

I got back from Afghanistan yesterday at 9am and this happened to me in a parking lot at 4pm stay there with the car until it could get towed to nissan at 9pm definitely ruined my day. Now I get to go the dealership and find out if they will cover it. My car is 29,xxx miles 2010 Nismo. They said my warranty is until Jan 31, 2013 so hopefully ill be good we'll see... So the problem is the steering lock unit? As OP stated steering wheel isn't locked but key light in dash is on and nothing happens at all. Replaced fob battery as well. Wish me luck

Under 36,000 miles should be covered in Warranty. I tried the battery thing also. No Luck. Mine happened yesterday at 45,000 miles. With dealer, somewhere around $900 installed.
However, with the steering wheel not locked, we were able to move the car and load it on a flat bed. How many of these before we go to Nissan and speak harshly?.
Also, thanks for your service.

Thanks you! Ya they just called me back and said it was the steering wheel lock and they would cover it under warranty. Of course they don't have the part so if they get it at 4 they may have it done otherwise maybe tomorrow... Atleast they're paying for it!