....as long as it wasn't like the black car above where the owner thought the paint looked just fine as well ;)

Yeah, there is a little more to it than that. If you are trying to remove medium to heavy swirling you will definitely need more than a polishing pad. Cutting, polishing and finishing pads are needed to achieve the best results. Knowing the right pad and polish combo, the right pressure with the right speed with the right technique, this is what is needed to achieve superior results. You also have to consider the type of paint being worked on, as they are all different, and the right amount of polish for the pad as well as how long to work the polish. Polishes with diminishing abrasives differ from polishes with non-diminishing abrasives. Not working the polish just right will leave the finish in a less than desirable state. Also a polish or compound that works well on paint "A" may not work as well on paint "B". Just a few of the things I've learned over the years.

Here is a better picture of the before/after side by side of the G35 and the car after a road trip and a few days of driving around (eg no wash/wax yet).....

If youre interested in learning more about proper paint care I suggest you join these forums:

Detailing Classes - Sign Up Here - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

They offer "mobile" classes, but for the most part they're only offered in California and the more 'popular' regions. If they happen to have one in your area I suggest you attend. Everyone here has a new car so it's the perfect time to learn.

I took classes when I bought my first new car (06 Si), and she's one of the best maintained Si's in So Cal - although my opinion is probably a bit biased. :) Meguiars offers a ton of learning resources which is why I stick with them, but Mothers products are also very competitive, as is 3M with their 303 protectant etc. Spend some time and check out your options!

buffing causes swirl marks..

No. Look at the photo's above, do you see any swirl marks in the black G35 I polished. Now an inexperienced person will more than likely cause swirling from polishing incorrectly.

Buffing CAN cause swirl marks, but most of the time it's either intentional or because you're doing it wrong. Always make sure you have a clean buffing pad. NEVER use a pad after you drop it on the floor or let it come in contact with anything soiled with any sort of grit. Make sure you're using the right pad for the right application, and make sure you're using the correct compounds.

There are alot of detail shops that offer buffing as a service that have "technicians" :rolleyes: that have no clue how to buff. Before employing anyone I would ask to see their credentials or ask them questions that can determine if they have a clue or not.

If I start doing this, I have a 97 Ford Ranger to test on, then a 2005 Civic to get more experience with, then a 2006 motorcycle I can easily screw up if I don't know what I'm doing by then....

Before hitting the Z...

That's an "if i start DIY detailing..."

I'm 100x more picky about details than anyone I know. I have an eye for finding flaws, usually. My wife does graphic art, and sees things right away that I don't too...so we're both pretty hard with regards to what perfection really is to us...versus someone else.

I found a detailer here in town that has done cars that make the 370z amount to a pile of pocket fuzz and change by comparison. I figure if the owners of those cars were happy with the results...then I can bank on him doing a good job on mine.

I totally agree. Also, using a clay bar after washing the car will remove allot of debris from the paint. By removing this additional dirt, and always using clean pads (as mentioned above) I get pretty good results with my Porter Cable. My detail procedure is as follows:
1) wash (with dawn)
2) clay bar
3) wash again (new water soap)
4) polish (somtimes I use a cleaner first)
5) glaze (optional, but good for balck)
6) wax

Well, this thread just convinced me to hire the detailer that I mentioned earlier...

$275, inside and out, claybar, 2-stage polish, 9mo sealer, conditioner/stainguard interior...wheel/tire dress, etc...

Maybe it's a bit pricy, maybe not. For $275, if she looks as good as she should have the day I bought her, then it will be worth it.

Hmm... be careful - that's awefully cheap... make sure they aren't using a glaze that fills the scratches in - after a few washes it will look like you put swirl marks back into your car but you just washe out the glaze. I also suspect the 9 month sealer is good if you never wash your car but once you start washing almost any sealer will start to come off. That's fine - just make sure you seal your car with a good wax - carnuba or synthetic (I think most would agree on a synthetic for a daily driver - carnuba for a constantly detailed vehicle).

Oh and just because someone works on really expensive cars doesn't mean the care about the longevity of their work - see the glaze info above...

Maybe...

But, this is the guy's site:

Auto Haven Mobile Detail, LLC

Check his photo gallery.


So...$275 is cheap?

Buffing does not cause swirl marks. Its the dirt and dust that gets cought in the buffer do to lack of attention of where you put the pads, that causes the swirl marks.

Same thing if you are wet sanding with a bucket of water. A piece of dirt or something gets int he water, on the sand paper, and your wet sanding. As you move the paper that dirt is stuck between and is being pushed around the paint.

Professionals never put their buffers on the ground. GOOD professionals I mean.
:icon14:

Yes, very wise grasshopper.