How to disconnect the Bosch modulator?
 

Not sure if this is the right place to post it but...

I'm getting more aggressive with drifting now and would like to see how the car acts without the ABLS engaging that people have been mentioning about. From what I understand, it's a cable that can be disconnected right in front of the e-brake handle. When I popped off the cup holder, there seems to be some plastics in the way so I'm not really sure where I'm supposed to be pulling. If anyone could just give me some incite and/or circle the area where I'm supposed to pull from, it'll be appreciated. Thanks



Picture was taken from the passenger side:

I'm also wondering about this. Any Feed Back?

The easiest way to get to it is to take your whole middle console out. Two screws at the back behind your seats on either side of the console, and then two screws in the dash just In front of your stick, IRCC. You can see the Bosch box plainly after that, and see what cable you need to pull where.


Sent from my iPhizzle using magic and new fangled science stuff

is it a plug that can be disconnected?

So, i disconnected the wheel speed sensor on the Right Rear Wheel (easiest to get too)

I'm assuming it disabled all of the stability controls since all the indicator lights were illuminated on the gauge cluster.

Took the car to a drift event yesterday, all i could say is the car was a world of difference.

When i get a chance i'll try to compare what i did vs. disconnecting the Bosch Sensor.

I would like to here more on this.

Subbed:tup:

omg yes please do

i dunno bout u guys but all the sliding around has thrown off my rear right camber. it looks like it's increased by 1.5-2 degrees camber

It's always a possibility for alignments to change, Hitting uneven areas can do it especially while drifting. Getting it on alignment rack to see what's really going on

I disconnecte the cable tonight and it disables vdc and that slip control since those things light up on the cluster. ABS still works though which is good. The car's electronics doesn't interfere when sliding now. Car finally has a sense of old school rawness without I all the gizmos getting in the way. I'll test out of a standing/rolling burnout is also possible

How did you make out with your standing burnout ???
Did it work ?
I'm looking for the best/easiest way of 'warming' the tires up at the dragstrip.

Also - Do the Brake Lights still work with the Bosch Box disconnected in this fashion ?

Thanks,

Bob

IIRC, pulling the brake light fuse is all that is required. Several threads on this site that discuss it.

Yes. The yaw sensor is not in the brake light circuit.

Unfortunately it doesn't take care of the standing burnout issue. You still need to disconnect the brake lamp fuse. Very annoying.
The brake lights still work with the Bosch disconnected

Thanks ... Have been using the search feature and have located these threads and have stumbled on some tantalizing pieces of info that I am now digging deeper in to.
I like things simple and easy.

So far:

Up Rev pre-tune that deals with the ABLS issue for drag racing ... have contacted Up Rev and they have requested the P/N of my computer...promising...

Bosch Modulator and it's functions/effects

'Stop Lamp' fuse (at least that is what my car has it labeled as)

Drag Radials and associated wheels ... limits - pro's and con's

GTM traction control

Making progress ... will continue to use the Search button till it breaks...

Nothin' beats hands on knowledge tho' from those who have done it.

So far have gotten my time down to 12.4 @ 116 (on cold tires) as a result of tapping in to the knowledge base here..

Would like to get in to the 11's

Bob