So far my (admittedly limited) experience with Auto-X is that you don't need to shift much. On the rare straight where you might top out the gear you're in, it's often simpler and more efficient to just bump the rev limiter for a second or two before you have to brake again anyways.

But in general, TongMan, you have to remember our auto has a manual shift option, and it's a pretty good and functional one. Unlike some of the poorly-implemented "manual mode" on some cars, ours really does give you good manual control and almost always stays in the selected gear until told otherwise (the exception is, it will auto-downshift for you if the revs drop way down close to idle in your current gear. But in any performance setting this is a non-issue, as you have no reason to let the revs get that low).

Well! I didn't mean to pull the chain of the MT6 folks nor was I trying to start a debate as to which tranny is better. So let me try this one more time.

I would like to know if it is economically possible to add a shift light to an AT7 (I know, I know it's Satan's Tranny but I've got one and I want to make the best of it). On those occasions when I'm feeling sporty I find it difficult, at best, to watch the tach and the road (especially in the corners) at the same time. A nice, bright, properly located shift light is, for me, the best way to determine your shift point when you are in a hurry. Accordingly I would be most appreciative of any assistance that anyone might be able to offer that would allow me to achieve that goal.

I did a quick search Summit racing and the shift lights that I saw seemed appropriate for single ignition coil engines not multi coil applications like the Z.

Actually it may be possible. maybe someone can come up with a chip to hijack the ECU. because I know in the 335i, you can get a JB4 chip and it allows you to hijack everything from gauges to turning signals. Example being.. your gas gauge turns into your boost gauge, turning signals will both light up(inside only) and act as a shift indicator and other neat little things..

I only know this because I know two friends who own a 335i. And thinking about selling my 7AT for one..

That's an interesting idea too bad we couldn't make the volt meter an oil pressure gauge!

I did find the Raptor Shift Light from raptorperformance.com which supposedly can be tied into a fuel injector wire as a trigger and then programmed for single cylinder operation. Might work.

I have a 2011 with the 7AT and it already has a shift light. Was it new for 2011? Or did it come with the Sport package.

My 2009 7AT w/ Sport doesn't have one. Can you set the shift light RPM via the the little left side display? Where does it light up at?

OK.... question here to the 7AT guys from a 6MT guy...

instead of worrying about having to up-shift manually and timing with the delay etc.... why not just let the auto trans upshift itself? they dont actually shift any faster in "manual" mode anyway do they? Will someone manually shifting the 370z 7AT actually run down the 1/4 any quicker than the guy just in plain auto mode? i would figure not, and probably slower because hes not going to be able to time it as well.

i mean really, what are you trying to do? no offense, i mean i can understand downshifting the auto manually while coming into a turn or something... but when trying to full throttle accelerate.. what advantage is there to shifting it yourself?

Where is the shift light located on a 2011 370z with 7AT?

It's a valid question for drag racing, I guess. But to be honest, if my primary concern was drag racing, I wouldn't have bought a 370 (or a V6 car in general heh). There are probably some fine points to be debated even for straight line acceleration on a standing 1/4. For example, if you got too much wheelspin in first gear in regular D-mode, it might shift to second too early instead of allowing you to play the throttle and get it hooked up before shifting. Of course if you burned all of first gear you're screwed anyways, so meh. Technically there are some minor differences in how fully our torque convertor locks up and at which RPMs (between D-mode and M-mode), but they're minor. Also the car won't pick the same shift point you would. You might raise your rev limiter and be shifting higher than it would choose, or if you have a particularly flat torque curve you might even be shifting back at 7K.

But mostly people who are doing anything serious in a 370Z aren't drag racing, so yeah, we do want to control both the down- and up- shift to keep the revs in the right range, which a full-auto can never do correctly without driver input.

Because 1st gear on the 7AT goes by so fast at full throttle (it's actually even lower geared than the 6MT's first gear, even after the different final drives are taken into account), I have used D-mode for the 1-2 shift from a standing start before. The idea is start in D, floor it, let it shift to 2nd for you, and then flip back over to the paddles to take over and continue driving (e.g. the starting line of an SCCA course).

You can really only do that reliably at a standing start though. Once you're into a course and shifting on your own, there's never really a good time when it would make sense to move back to D, even temporarily. If you did and you were at any less than full throttle, the car would take over with "regular commuter traffic" shifting rules and drop you into too high of a gear for whatever you're doing, and then it gets to be a pain in the *** to switch back and get it back to the gear you should be in.

wstar is correct. First and second fly by in the 7AT so a shift light would be a real aid.

To clarify I'm not talking about drag racing, I am talking about road, auto-x and track applications where the traffic and corners preclude staring at the tach to time your next shift.

Again, I'm not trying to pick a fight with the 6MT folks but it bears pointing out that the 7AT in the Z is not your father's Powerglide. The 7AT provides some interesting challenges and some interesting opportunities and I'm trying to make the most of what it has to offer. Why did I buy it? because it rev-matches better and shifts faster than I can and when the pinched nerve in my lower back is acting up operating a clutch becomes a real problem. So it is what it is.

For most AutoX, you won't need to shift. I've only ever run one course that required changing more than that 1-2 shift at the start.


For everything else, my thought would be to go by feel. I don't use the shift light in my 6mt. I know when I need to change gears, and I do it. It shouldn't take much practice to be at that point.

The light is right below where it says "RPM". I am not sure if it is adjustable.

So I finally found it listed in the owners manual...page 295.

Attachment 32609

On the manuals it is adjusted through the DIC pod on the left, I imagine it would be the same for the auto's that have this feature. It starts flashing a few hundred RPM before the set point and then goes solid. 1st gear goes by so fast in the auto that it might not be a useful indicator.

when im under full throttle in my AT, the trans shifts WAY faster in manual mode. My 7AT will go from 1st to 2nd faster than I could shift it was a manual. Barking the rear tires, under full throttle, in manual mode is not unusual. There is a slight, 1/2 second delay from the time I hit the paddle till the shift. Its the same at higher
gears on the highway, the upshifts are very quick in manual mode.

My brother in-law has an 05 Vette with paddle shifters. I drove it when he first got it. He explained the paddle shifters are more for holding it in gears around corners, not really for fast upshifts. The Z trans is different. He drove mine and couldnt believe how fast it changes gears in manual mode.

This isnt a manny vs. auto thread, but for you MT guys out there that havent driven the paddle shifters yet, I highly suggest you try them out. It may not be what you want for your own Z but I think you will be impressed with the 7AT performance.