Sunline body kit

EastBayZ

thanks for the input. i like the origional sunline kit. heard about minor fitment issues with the shine auto kit, some memors required molding to have nice fit. so i know sunline is a tad more expensive than the replicas, but for me thats what i am aiming for. if anyone knows a vendor ( i have seen a few already) that the would vouch for, please let me know.

EastBayZ

bullit do you sell the kit?

Jamaica

he is not a vendor on this forum.


call shine auto project. They have specials for thanksgiving.

cooltoy

Yes he does.

happytheman

Actually, with regards to the fitment, it's my understanding that the Shine kit fits better than the original.

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--Brantly--

docaam

If you buying CF lip then shineauto fitmet is little off very little for few and too much for few.

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Old 370Z SOLD but not forgotten
370Z 40th, G37s, S30 RBZ, Hakosuka Skyline

axmea?

I did not understand what you just said. Just the first part.

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docaam

Was typing from a phone let me rephrase it. If you are buying a carbon fiber lip then shine auto lip has small gaps which for you might be nothing. But for me it was something so that why I moulded it. In other case if lip is FRP then you should be ok as there is some flexibiility to push the lip and remove the gap

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Old 370Z SOLD but not forgotten
370Z 40th, G37s, S30 RBZ, Hakosuka Skyline

EastBayZ

got ya. thanks. frp sounds good. hey does anyone know which screws / clips go where on the bumper and undersplash guards(s) now that its been several weeks since I removed them? lol

axmea?

You should have at least 5 mounting points. One on each side of the fenders and three spread out evenly on the front.

I have mine set this way. Starting from drivers side to the passengers side. Screws and mounting points at 9 o'clock, 10:30, 12 (center point), 1:30 and 3 o'clock. I use bolts on the front three and screws on the fenders with retainer clips. Also, if you can swing it, mount 1/16 inch steel plates on the lowest points so that when your car bottoms out or scrapes on dips, you have metal plates that protect your frp or carbon -- especially the carbon.

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EastBayZ

thanks for the tip axmea?. Did you install yourself or did you have a reptable body shop do it? Yours is sunline? It looks great btw. will you go for the sideskirts and rear as well? Did your kit include the hardware?

I live in san jose ca but there is a great autobody i heard about in sac town, may go out there for a few days and have them preform the work.

axmea?

^^^ Hey. Thanks bro. It is a replica, had it painted, and installed it myself. I just bought it thinking it will be temporary until I decide what I want to do. The kit came with brackets and self tapping screws. I used the screws and bought retainers from Home Depot and used them on the fenders. I also bought nuts and bolts with the brackets to hold the lip. The brackets were surprisingly well built stainless steel. It is very solid and holds pretty well. If you decide to go with this, pm me it is a pretty straightforward installation. FRP will fit better than carbon fiber because it flexes, unless you get the Sunline from Japan which will run about $1600 (carbon fiber) for the entire kit - lip, skirt, and the spats ($1200 for FRP). I say go with a replica from Shine or Aerojacket. Fitment is just as good and you really hard to tell the difference. Warning: If you buy the kit from ebay, you will be able to tell the difference. If you're handy, just DIY especially for this kit. Save the labor cost for another mod. I like this style kit. Looks aggressive. Mine does not look complete because it is missing the skirts and spats. The front is not tied to the rest. Still looking around on what I set up I like.

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EastBayZ

so yours is the rep from shine? as you did it yourself, any gaps or have you heard of any other users that needed to "mold" on the fitment? I aint trippin about saving a lil money of course, but on this car i only want the best. if you cant tell the difference 1 bit, then sunline might not be my way to go.

what about the fitment of the replica sideskirts and rear skirts?

neveucd

You've also got Seibon that sells a Carbon Fiber replica through just about anyone, in addition to Aerojacket and Shine Auto. I have Seibon front, and Aerojacket sides and rear spats. All fit fairly well with minimal gaps.

I had to secure the front on w/ bolts, nuts and locktite, instead of self tapping screws; because I had one fall off on the highway and shatter into a thousand pieces. No issues now.

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GTM Stg. 2 TT||F.I. CF 18" Res. CBE||GTM 3" Downpipe ||Injen Cold Water Intakes||UpRev||Work Gnosis GS2||Hankook||Tein Monoflex||Hawk||Seibon||Aero Jacket||

axmea?

Not from shine. I did it myself, gaps are minor and really depends on strong taping. Save your money, get one from FRP from ShineAutoProject. I cannot speak to the skirts and rear spats. I don't have it. Most pics you see have no visible issues. I don't get the molding idea. You need a little flex because of scraping issues. It has to move a little in my opinion and that is why good taping and sound mounting practices help keep the lip and bumper in good shape. If you mold it, you either crack it a the seams or move the entire bumper when you hit or scrap. To me, there should be a little "give" when the lip hits pavement. My lip is under 4 inches from the ground, scrapes often, and stays intact. If I molded it, I know it would crack at the seams or move the bumper at it's mounting points. Use good tape and an adhesive agent from 3m.

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