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Hazard Switch Wiring Diagram

Originally Posted by synolimit Ok please don't make fun! My light test stopped working so I made this haha and I don't have a volt meter. Here's what I found

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Old 11-10-2013, 09:48 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Ok please don't make fun! My light test stopped working so I made this haha and I don't have a volt meter. Here's what I found out...I put one nail to a ground source and the other nail touched all the harness wires for both buttons...
Not the best solution but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Hazards...
Orange wire- does nothing ever (possible ground since it connects to the thick black one on the main harness)
Green wire- with the car on or off, when my light tester touches the green wire the hazards turn on like they should (a circuit is being completed using the light buld)
Black wire- does nothing ever (possible ground)
Light blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)
Orange & Black = ground. One of those will be the switched side of the switch. In this case, that wire will be grounded, too. With a meter, you could measure resistance to ground and verify. To tell which one is the switch, you need an ohmmeter or continuity checker.
Green. That will be the wire from the BCM.
Lt Blue = illumination. If the light is normally on with the dash lights (I haven't noticed mine), then I think you got that one right, too. It would be nice to be able to check the voltage as the dash lights are adjusted to confirm this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Synco
Green w/ white stripe- nothing ever (possible ground)
Dark blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)
Black w/ red stripe- with the car on the tester light lights up
Black w/ yellow stripe- does nothing ever (possible ground)
Grn/Wht & Blk/Yel = ground. See above.
Drk Blue. Same as Lt Blue above.
Blk/Red. Should be coming from the BCM but I haven't look at the schematic so it may be Ign.

A cheap multimeter from the auto parts store (or WalMart, or Radio Shack, or ...) will be good enough for what you are doing and they can be found for $5-20.
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