okay, I'll admit it. I'm lost.
I see a schematic illustrating an installed switch in the glove compartment.
How much does the switch cost, and more to the point, what does it take to install it? :confused:

Edit: Sunday, 9/19/10
I went to the 2010 Owners manual, and on page 3-19 FOR THE ROADSTER
it describes a "Trunk Release Power Cancel Switch".
"When you have to leave the vehicle with a valet
and want to keep your belongings safe in the
glove box and the trunk, push this switch to OFF
and lock the glove box with the mechanical key.
Then leave the vehicle and the Intelligent Key
with the valet and keep the mechanical key with
you."
Is this maybe not what we thought it was?

It's only $27 bucks. I may just give it a shot.

is it pre wired? ... if so, why not just get a momentary switch (normally open) from radioshack for like $5 and install it in your glove box? much cheaper and quicker.

I think the issue is the type of switch. Someone on here mentioned the BCM needs diode switches or else the signals in the BCM crosstalk and you activate more than one thing at a time.

The diode is nice but isn't strictly required if the component has it's own input.

So your choice is run wire the length of the car and hook it in parallel to the existing switch or run it back to the BCM.

For me the best place to remotely open the hatch is on the key fob. It is when I am carrying stuff to my car I suddenly remember, "Oh yeah, it's this stupid car again."
I would use the unused convertible switch placement for the hard wired switch.

+1

Is there a way to tie a switch/button to the button thats already there?

I'd want one too actually. I've had this issue before.

Who is first I will take the challenge. (^_^)

The basic issue is the BCM has a shared multiplexed input scheme for the hatch button, the turn signal, the headlight switches, etc. So the diode prevents the system from becoming confused when multiple switches are closed.

I am thinking that you find the input into the actuator that opens the trunk see the power input that takes than run that to the new switch and power to the switch from the wire in the trunk that goes to the actuator.

Hence the "if" it has it's own input. If it is part of a logic matrix like the headlight switches then the diodes would be required. I was the one that told Travis to add them for his headlight switches ;)

This may not be the most elegant solution but it is definitely the easiest. Remove your rear trunk paneling. Throw a multimeter on those wires as you hit the button and see whether it grounds or hooks to positive to release. Then just run the necessary one (ground or +12V) from a switch up front to the wire out back.

Thank you all for your help. CBRich
"This may not be the most elegant solution but it is definitely the easiest. Remove your rear trunk paneling. Throw a multimeter on those wires as you hit the button and see whether it grounds or hooks to positive to release. Then just run the necessary one (ground or +12V) from a switch up front to the wire out back"

This is basicall what I wanted to do. The simpliset thing without messing with the BMC