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Oh snap, Carbon fiber rear hatch dampners...

So are we going to have Hood Damper V2.0 coming out soon Ryan? With everything working properly?

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Old 05-07-2010, 03:57 PM   #241 (permalink)
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So are we going to have Hood Damper V2.0 coming out soon Ryan? With everything working properly?
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:00 PM   #242 (permalink)
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I'm still on the fence.
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:01 PM   #243 (permalink)
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wasssssssssabi- ouch! your thumb and your damper kit ball joints...


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Originally Posted by Vegitto-kun View Post
Well yeah all fine and dandy but you would be left with a drilled and cut engine bay

you will be left with useless set of balls... well, quite literally (ball joints).


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Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
Mcmaster's is super fast with anything you might need!

yes, they were SUPER quick. i need to checkout their site in more detail when i have time. soooo many cool things i want to get and just stock up.
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:25 PM   #244 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waaaasabi View Post
Alright here's the install/review for the CF rear dampeners!


Packaging. The instructions were... uhhhh. Yeah, not really instructive, but honestly, it's a dampeners swap, not an engine drop.


Stock dampener. The bottom joint seemed to fit just fine so I didn't want to mess with the brackets and whatnot.

Be careful removing the stock dampeners; they're a real bitch the first time around.

(The picture is after I cleaned it all up; it wouldn't stop bleeding for the longest)

I was able to put on the bottom joint and slip on the locking mechanism, but the top CF cup joint wouldn't lock into the stock ball joint. So I took off the stock ball (a bitch, as well), but the supplied ball joint didn't fit


As you can see there's a major size difference between the screws of the ball joints.

So right now I'm kinda stuck. I tried perhaps using the supplied bracket and screwing it down with the stock joint screw, but I couldn't position the bracket in any way that would fit. I think Ryan may have sent me a front set by accident, but in any case I have to write a paper for Monday, so I can't mess around with the dampener till next week.
should have used a flat head to take the stock pins out!

okay you need to install the top one first. run the damper along the hood when installing, makes it easier. then bring damper down towards the bottom ball joint. took us like 1 min on each damper

also the ball joints are the same. just takes a little force to push it on. try useing a rubber malet to pop it in.

btw, you have weird looking pants

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Old 05-07-2010, 04:29 PM   #245 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RCZ View Post
So are we going to have Hood Damper V2.0 coming out soon Ryan? With everything working properly?
Well, if you guys really want to drill out they hole then yes i can provide this bracket. is this what everyone wants.

I could run a lower price also if you guys want to buy the bracket seprate.

Let me know what you guys want and you shall have!
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:55 PM   #246 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ryan_west06 View Post
should have used a flat head to take the stock pins out!

okay you need to install the top one first. run the damper along the hood when installing, makes it easier. then bring damper down towards the bottom ball joint. took us like 1 min on each damper

also the ball joints are the same. just takes a little force to push it on. try useing a rubber malet to pop it in.

btw, you have weird looking pants
Aha! I think another problem was that the cup joints were angled differently, thus I had to unscrew it quite a bit to get it to fit. But I finally got it to fit; thanks Ryan. Will update with pics on Monday. Also, why throw in all those other miscellaneous parts if they're not needed? It just throws people off haha.

Hey the ripped up jeans are cool (at least in my mind)! I'm bringing back style from the late 80s/early 90s.
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:17 PM   #247 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waaaasabi View Post
Aha! I think another problem was that the cup joints were angled differently, thus I had to unscrew it quite a bit to get it to fit. But I finally got it to fit; thanks Ryan. Will update with pics on Monday. Also, why throw in all those other miscellaneous parts if they're not needed? It just throws people off haha.

Hey the ripped up jeans are cool (at least in my mind)! I'm bringing back style from the late 80s/early 90s.

haha... on the jeans.

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Old 05-07-2010, 06:45 PM   #248 (permalink)
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Can someone sell me one of their stock rear hatch ball joints??
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:46 PM   #249 (permalink)
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Also, can we use the rear trunk hatch dampeners for full cf trunk hatches? If so I will take a set!
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:56 PM   #250 (permalink)
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Hey Marco, PM sent!
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Old 05-07-2010, 08:19 PM   #251 (permalink)
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Modshack- I got one side done and testing. It's great!

Did you use a spacer by any chance to raise the ball joint side a few mm on the tower? I ask because the damper housing is barely but surely rubbing the battery cover.

(Also dremeled out a little cutout for the shaft on the cradle part of the battery cover surround aft of the big foam cradle)
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Old 05-07-2010, 08:33 PM   #252 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
Modshack- I got one side done and testing. It's great!

Did you use a spacer by any chance to raise the ball joint side a few mm on the tower? I ask because the damper housing is barely but surely rubbing the battery cover.

(Also dremeled out a little cutout for the shaft on the cradle part of the battery cover surround aft of the big foam cradle)
Sounds like you got it figured out! I did dremel that plastic lip aft of the foam, and also cut a slit in the foam for the shaft to drop into without compressing it...

I didn't raise the ball (no evidence of rubbing the Bat. cover on mine) but found it necessary to unscrew the shaft, Put the little retainer clip in place with the end on the ball, then rescrew the shaft and pop it into the hood ball. Didn't use a clp there as it doesn't seem necessary and it makes it easier to snap the Cylinder off if necessary..You could always put a few washers under the triangle plate to raise if necessary....

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Old 05-07-2010, 08:48 PM   #253 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
Sounds like you got it figured out! I did dremel that plastic lip aft of the foam, and also cut a slit in the foam for the shaft to drop into without compressing it...

I didn't raise the ball (no evidence of rubbing the Bat. cover on mine) but found it necessary to unscrew the shaft, Put the little retainer clip in place with the end on the ball, then rescrew the shaft and pop it into the hood ball. Didn't use a clp there as it doesn't seem necessary and it makes it easier to snap the Cylinder off if necessary..You could always put a few washers under the triangle plate to raise if necessary....

Hey Mod, Will this set up get in the way of the removal of the battery in the event of a Battery failure? kinda hard to tell from the angle of the pic
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Old 05-07-2010, 08:49 PM   #254 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
Sounds like you got it figured out! I did dremel that plastic lip aft of the foam, and also cut a slit in the foam for the shaft to drop into without compressing it...

I didn't raise the ball (no evidence of rubbing the Bat. cover on mine) but found it necessary to unscrew the shaft, Put the little retainer clip in place with the end on the ball, then rescrew the shaft and pop it into the hood ball. Didn't use a clp there as it doesn't seem necessary and it makes it easier to snap the Cylinder off if necessary..You could always put a few washers under the triangle plate to raise if necessary....

Thanks again for the guidance modshack! I'm going to raise the ball joint side like 1-2mm after dinner and it should clear it on mine. the hood closes completely stock not even a hint of bulging.
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Old 05-07-2010, 08:58 PM   #255 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Triple's View Post
Hey Mod, Will this set up get in the way of the removal of the battery in the event of a Battery failure? kinda hard to tell from the angle of the pic
Trip......It may take an extra minute or 2 to snap off the cylinder. Seems you need to remove both the battery cover and it's plastic base to get good battery removal access...No biggy.
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