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Oh snap, Carbon fiber rear hatch dampners...

Maybe the dampers are too large then for this particular application?

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Old 05-05-2010, 11:20 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Maybe the dampers are too large then for this particular application?
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:26 PM   #167 (permalink)
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to large meaning the diameter of the strut? any thinner it most likely wont hold the hood up.

but Kenchan figured it out! and our Z has no buldge
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:41 PM   #168 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_west06 View Post
We tried running it straight and there seems to be no way it will work! it pushed so hard the hood almost wouldnt close!
Ryan...Do you happen to know the spring pressure of those cylinders? They seem to be available in 10 lb force increments....

Not sure how moving the fender side ball an inch to the right/left would affect that much given the very slight change in angularity..
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:14 AM   #169 (permalink)
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I will need to check tomorrow. but i dont think it will affect it at all.

off the top of my head i know its about 80+ lb pressure.
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:52 AM   #170 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_west06 View Post
~FRONTS AND REARS NOW FOR SALE~


check these out guys. Real carbon fiber hatch dampners....
Before:

After:



you can find these on the link below:
Carbon Fiber Hood Damper Kit - hood dampeners made from Carbon fiber. fits Mazda, Honda,Subaru,Mini cooper, G35 Nissan 350Z,Mitsubishi Evo, Gallardo and more

Found a coupon code also= 370z

Also Nismo valve stem caps here: Carbon Fiber Valve stem caps-Nismo 100% real carbon fiber valve stem caps

Ryan

all didnt clean the hatch area before taking the pictures
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:56 AM   #171 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_west06 View Post
to large meaning the diameter of the strut? any thinner it most likely wont hold the hood up.
I meant in terms of diameter. But it could also be the spring rate or perhaps both the diameter and the spring rate. For example a smaller diameter strut with the same or a lesser spring rate might work just as well if it's mounting points were more in a straight line. A smaller diameter strut would also have less likelihood of rubbing. I see Modshack has already asked about the spring rates of your struts.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:16 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Zpirate- the diameter is 19.6mm for ryan's. this is over the CF part of the housing.

The NRG i have on my G is smaller but only marginally... like 18.0mm. the car needs more like 10mm additional clearance for the dampers if it was not to rub the battery cover surround piece... there is just no room.

the structure of the 370Z is completely different from your 350Z and my G35C... there's really not much room in there~.

Last edited by kenchan; 05-06-2010 at 12:55 PM. Reason: decimal fixed...
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:19 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
Ryan...Do you happen to know the spring pressure of those cylinders? They seem to be available in 10 lb force increments....

Not sure how moving the fender side ball an inch to the right/left would affect that much given the very slight change in angularity..
i dont think it's going to change all that much as far as the force... and honestly speaking, these are retail $99... so manufacturing cost is $25 for the pair...that's like less than $10 each for the dampers themselves. i dont expect them to be extremely accurate as far as spring pressure consistency.

cant wait to see how you clear the battery cover side.
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Old 05-06-2010, 11:23 AM   #174 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
Zpirate- the diameter is 196mm for ryan's. this is over the CF part of the housing.
19.6mm (.77")...Correct. Readily available cylinders from my source are 19.1 (.75") without the CF, so little difference there. Spring rate is really not an issue here as Ryan's do the job (I was curious more than anything), but the struts I've found can be spec'd from 20 to 130 lbs in 10 lb. increments so there seems to be some precision in the manufacture of these..
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:54 PM   #175 (permalink)
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yah, my decimal point is in the wrong area...
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:55 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Status update on mine:
We got them on during lunch but took them off. Issues:
~Bulge in the center of the hood
~Touching the Password JDM pieces (so it will touch the stock pieces)

We might need to break in the pieces a bit, but not enough time at work to do much testing.
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:22 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theDreamer View Post
Status update on mine:
We got them on during lunch but took them off. Issues:
~Bulge in the center of the hood
~Touching the Password JDM pieces (so it will touch the stock pieces)

We might need to break in the pieces a bit, but not enough time at work to do much testing.
Bulge in center. how is that even possible
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:25 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_west06 View Post
Bulge in center. how is that even possible
We are not 100% sure yet, we have no rubber, no battery/fluid covers, nothing is touching the unit itself.
We wonder if since we only opened/close the hood maybe 15-20 times it may not have settled or if the unit is pushing on the hood at the rear and the weakest point is bending (which is the center).
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:29 PM   #179 (permalink)
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I wonder if its hitting the fender piece that kenchan bent down a little. We didnt even bend our fender piece down and we have no bulge... :/
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:37 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_west06 View Post
I wonder if its hitting the fender piece that kenchan bent down a little. We didnt even bend our fender piece down and we have no bulge... :/
We did not mess with the fender piece, bit hot and I still had to grab lunch so we just called it after 15 minutes.
An idea to try out in your shop, is to build a bracket that pushes the ball join that sits in the engine bay over so the whole unit is in more of a straight line, might not change anything but will be better for pressure points on both the hood & unit.
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