Since it's a sticky, I guess I can ask: Since the jacks are placed center, isn't there a reasonable amount of worry involved with tipping the car over to a
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05-16-2012, 01:26 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Since it's a sticky, I guess I can ask:
Since the jacks are placed center, isn't there a reasonable amount of worry involved with tipping the car over to a side?
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05-16-2012, 06:57 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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I would be wary of that - I would be concerned of side to side weight bias. To be safe, and with access to only one long reach low profile jack, I jack up the front half height, drop it on two jackstands, then jack the rear full height, drop on two more jack stands. Then, I return to the front and jack to final full height.
Better to be safe than sorry when just jacking up the under engine mount and the diff.
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05-27-2012, 12:03 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Ryno ramps
Its easy to drive on the Ryno ramps without removing the front air dam. just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood 9" wide about 2 to 3' long. Stick a 2x4 block under the ply and set them a short way up the ramp. Bada Bing, drive right up your ryno's.
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08-09-2012, 04:39 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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At the risk of having to rejoin with a new username for asking such a dumb question, how do you get a jack to the front jack point?
It is a long way from the front of the car to the jack point such that the jack is not even close to getting there, and it is also a long way from either side of the car. My excuse for knowing nothing about working on cars is that I am coming from motorcycles, where pretty much everything is always within reach. 1. Do I need an extra long reach jack? 2. Should I drive up on ramps then get the whole jack under there (the handle might still be a problem, though, as its travel would be severely limited)? 3. If I turn the steering wheel to the lock, can I get in behind a tire and reach that front jack point from the side? Thanks. |
08-09-2012, 05:09 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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That is an excellent question and not stupid at all!
I either drive up on some blocks of wood, or onto wood then some ramps. From there u should be able to reach the dimple (I was able to with a cheapo harbor freight 1.5 ton). Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2 |
01-03-2013, 10:27 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the info, I just got a jack and stands for christmas, and had my car up to paint my calipers.
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03-09-2013, 11:22 AM | #38 (permalink) |
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I just put on the evo-r side blades.I used 2x10's to get the front up a couple inches so I could install them.My problem now is that the dealership says they can't get my car on any lift they have(even the GTR lift)so i'm going to make my own ramps from 2x12's.....and change my oil myself....thinking about carbon fiber rockers but i'm thinking they will be too low also....Car has been lowered also by the way.
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12-31-2013, 04:27 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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I bought one of these unibody adapters for my floor jack and it works great for jacking up my Z.
Rob Floor Jack Adapter For Late Model Cars |
12-31-2013, 04:41 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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I have been looking for something like this so the pinch weld fits in between the adapter so its lifted correctly. But is there one that does not have that stud sticking out so it goes into your jack and is flat to fit any jack?
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12-31-2013, 08:55 PM | #43 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Rob |
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01-03-2014, 01:03 AM | #45 (permalink) |
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Hey thanks for taking the time to give feedback and post some pics. The jack I have does not have that option. It’s a Torin aluminum racing jack. The so called bowl itself does not just come out. From the looks of it the bowl itself is secured in by a stud that is pressed in. The jack looks like so. Torin Aluminum Race Jack with Single Piston Pump — 1 1/2-Ton, Model# T815005L | Rapid Lift Race Jacks| Northern Tool + Equipment
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