Found that a hockey puck with a groove cut into the middle works just fine on other cars I have worked on...no need to spend on that if you don't want to.

I have read that myself. But I would like the actual tool. If anybody knows where to obtain. Thanks

If you have a floor jack the bowl it came with should lift right out and the adapter fits right in.

Rob

Here are some photos:

1. Stock floor jack

2. Floor jack with bowl removed

3. Floor jack with adapter

Hey thanks for taking the time to give feedback and post some pics. The jack I have does not have that option. It’s a Torin aluminum racing jack. The so called bowl itself does not just come out. From the looks of it the bowl itself is secured in by a stud that is pressed in. The jack looks like so. Torin Aluminum Race Jack with Single Piston Pump — 1 1/2-Ton, Model# T815005L | Rapid Lift Race Jacks| Northern Tool + Equipment

Great sticky, so just to confirm if I may. I can purchase a hocky puck and cut a slit in the middle, place this on the side front jack point raise car slightly then use another jack to raise the front via the cross member?

I bought 4 hockey pucks (this is Minnesota - they even sell hockey pucks in the grocery store). I cut a slot in them slightly off center using a radial arm saw deep enough so that it slips over the notched flange but bottoms out on the rail. I bought four neodymium magnets off Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) drilled four 1/2 inch holes, and glued them in there so that the pucks would stay put. Works great for me (got the magnet idea from this site somewhere). I did this not only so that I could jack it at home, but so that the thing would go on a typical 4-point lift without damage.

I use a hockey puck with a slit cut in one side for the pinch rails. I flip the puck over when I use the garage jack points.

If I'm putting the car on four jack stands, I drive one front tire onto a 2x6 laid flat. This allows me enough clearance to reach the front garage jack point (minor rubbing on the plastic chin spoiler for the first few pumps of the jack handle). I put two jack stands on their lowest height at the front before moving to the rear. I use the differential jack point to easily jack up the rear. I put the jack stands at my working height before moving back to the front to raise those stands to level the car. After a couple of years, I can do this in <10 min if I try. Note that I have an essentially stock sports package. YMMV.

For example, I recently did an oil change for a fellow forum member and ran into several issues with my methods. She has a front lip (EVO-R), and the 2x6 was not sufficient height to clear the lip with my jack when reaching for the front cross member. Also, she has aftermarket exhaust (FI TDX) which restricted access to the differential jack point. I might have been able to reach it by stacking two hockey pucks on the jack, but I only had the one. I had to use the pinch rails to jack up each side individually.

With the rail do you mean the point where the two notches are? If so I agree. But when I looked behind that area ( the rail with two notches ) it was very narrow for the jackstand to rest on.

Stolen from another forum.
I have not seen these lift points used before?

http://seology.com/350z/2014-07-28_13-15-04.jpeg

http://seology.com/350z/2014-07-07_12-13-36.jpeg


http://seology.com/350z/2014-07-07_12-10-08.jpeg

Nice

Did it this way yesterday.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/de2ery9y.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/qadanu6e.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/6e6aramu.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/3e4ejyha.jpg

I just bought a floor jack and two pairs of jack stands to do my transmission and gear oil.
For the jack stands it says that I need to bend in the little metal tabs? I dont see that done in any of these pictures... Is it safe to leave the tabs alone? because then how will I unbend them to lower back down?

Also, is it safe in general to have the car lifted on 4 jack stands while I do my work?

and for the rear, the floor jack goes directly onto the differential? it wont break or bend anything important?

The tabs you're referring to are just a retaining tab to keep the jack stand shaft permanently in the stand after you initially assemble the 2 pieces together. That tab should only be bent inward enough to prevent the sliding porting of the jack stand from coming back out and falling out of the base. It also prevents you from accidentally over-extending the jack stand to an unsafe point where it would break sideways if you lowered your car onto it with the shaft almost completely out of the stand with no sidewall of the stand touching the shaft for lateral strength.

is your contact point the subframe, and also are the side jacks on the black plastic? I am yet to jack the car, ive been ramping it all this time

Also guys, if you don't have hockey pucks or something of that nature to go on your jack...don't worry. It won't hurt the pinch welds/rails once you start jacking your car up.

You'll notice there is a small nipple in the center, under the engine. That's the spot you're looking for. I always leave my jack there as a fail-safe

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9c6f4b18.jpg

Is that a 370Z? I think those are essentially the same lift points used in a photo earlier in this thread. I used the photo below.

In the attached pic, I marked the nipple zfaulter is referring to with a red circle. As he notes, that's the sweet spot. As for the jacks, it looks like he is also using subframe. I have marked these locations with a blue box in the pic. I have used these when I've worked on other people's cars with aftermarket side skirts that got in the way of my normal pinch rail jack stand location.

It may bend some though. The lift that Austin Z Clinic uses has bent mine just a bit. No big deal :tup:

I have magnetic multi-purpose jack pads. One side is magnetic and the other side has a slit. I use the magnetic side to quickly and precisely attach the pad onto the car/engine frame. The slit side is used for the seam-weld jackpoint, is not magnetic, but it secures it to the jack.

I even use them as magnetic trays to hold nuts, bolts, etc. when working on the car. To store them, I attach them to the jack --- this made me not lose my pads as often. :)

Attachment 98676David. I use the stock front lift point to raise car via trolly jack and jack puck. And also the subframe to rest the car on via the jack stands. I just took some pics and highleted area for you to see clearer. Attachment 98676Attachment 98676Attachment 98676

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EDIT .

Basically the last image JARBLUE posted is what I use. The blue area is where I use for the jackstand and the red circle area is what I use the trolly jack to raise vehicle.

Basically the last image JARBLUE posted is what I use. The blue area is where I use for the jackstand and the red circle area is what I use the trolly jack to raise vehicle

I'll leave this here for future reference.

Nissan 370Z Forum - Stino's Album: Floor Jack and 370Z Jack Stand Placement

Those are nice. Where did you get them? Do you have a link?

Try this. :)


Jack Pads - Magnetized - 6speedonline.com Forums

Working on cars have been my passion for decades. I invented/made the magnetic pads as the result of many hours working on sports cars and bikes. :)

They're easy to make. All you need is some hockey pucks, a radial arm saw or something to cut the slot, and some neodymium magnets off Amazon. Drill a 1/2 inch hole and use some epoxy to secure the magnets.

:) touché. Yes, pretty easy to make.

Sometimes it's easier to pay someone else to do it (depending on their price) :tiphat:

I just use the nice soft street hockey pucks. I think I posted a pick here or elsewhere.

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How about the one you used on top of your jack stands?
Where you got them?

I have some covers like that for my jack stands. I picked them up at Harbor Freight a week or two after I bought jack stands from the same. Dirt cheap :tup:

The ones on top of jack stands where bought from harbor freight. I don't really rate it too well as the edges of the jack stand broke through the rubber.

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Cool I'll go there today. Weird i bought my stands over there and they never offered it to me.:tup:

Stupid tapa talk. ...

They are sold separately. I still use an old rag in between that and the car body.

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Same here. I didn't even know about them until I saw them on sale in a email I received a few days after purchasing the jack stands.

FWIW, I have several sets of jack stands, and the covers only fit the Pittsburgh brand ones I bought from HF.

Yeah, they're ok but not great. For a couple of bucks, I guess you get what you pay for. Mine haven't broken through yet, but they are pretty deformed from use. If they punch through, I will consider just ditching them, but for the price, I don't mind replacing them every so often when they need it.

Oh yes. The last paragraph. Hence why covers don't fit well on my Walmart jack stands and punched through.

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And actually, most people don't have the tools, machines, jigs, etc to make decent units.

Ps,
Epoxy would not last after many bending, flexing and use of the pad. Don't ask me how I know. Hahaha

Question regarding using jack stands on the side rails. On previous cars, I've never used jack stand covers/pads. I would have the side rails sitting directly on the metal jack stands.

Would this work ok for the Z? I'm thinking of getting some covers just in case, but wanted to see how many people just go without them and if they have any issues with the rails bending?

The pinch rails will bend if you put weight directly on them. I've seen this from cars that get lifted by mechanics that don't care. Most jack stand supports have a Y shape to them. I just center the pinch rail in the Y so its not resting on anything. The weight rests on the Y supports on either side of the pinch rail.