Anyone know what type of bolt this is?

JZNx

Hey guys, I’m trying to replace my safety clutch switch and I thought I was going to be able to use normal adjustable wrench but it’s not really working… anyone know what type of bolt/nut this is and what tool would I need to unscrew this thing? It is in an awkward position so it might just be me lol. But let me know please!



Thanks Guys!

gbhrps

JZNx,

I think you'll find that what you're trying to turn is compressed or welded to the bracket and is not designed to turn. The nut you should be trying to turn is the lock nut on the underside (in your photo) of the bracket next to the switch its self.

I could be wrong, because its been years since I've been under there, but you may need to use a very thin wrench on the lock nut.

Good Luck!

Gene

-ZS-Carpenter

There should be a jam nut on the back side. Unplug the switch, losen the jam nut then unscrew the switch from the pedal assembly.

Don't use an adjustable wrench. Get a set of combination wrenches so you don't bugger things up.

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JZNx

Any advice on unplugging the switch? It’s in a really awkward spot and I can’t really see the back of it. I tried unplugging but no luck so far…

SeeThruHead

in your picture it looks like there is a white retention tab that should be pressed in, possible on both sides. before the white portion slides out. at that point the black "socket" should be able to be threaded off... not sure just going by the picture

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-ZS-Carpenter

They are a pain in the azz is about all I can tell you. I have big fingers so I have to use a pick or small screw driver to push the clip in.

I have to take the seat out to get under the dash. It's only 4 bolts and a couple plugs to give yourself a lot more room.

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JARblue

Listen to this man

I've done like 8 clutch pedal installations over the years. Some things have gotten easier, but those damn switches always put up a fight

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JARblue

Nope! The white plastic is actually part of the switch. Pretty sure the exposed white you see on the side is Nissan's best attempt to keep you contorting yourself under the dash as long as possible so you give up and take it to the dealer

In the OP's photo, the tab is going to be on the top of the switch (not on the sides with the exposed white part) that is opposite the blue part of the connector. It is just a single tab - I usually try to wrap the loom around a finger to help pull the connector out while pushing the tab with another finger.

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JZNx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPbd2JQT0sI

If you watch this video I have the exact same setup except that my bolt looks like its bit welded or something. And the other bolt that underneath the factory bolt is the bolt that actually comes with the switch to adjust the length so that clutch peddle can hit the switch properly.

So in my mind, I thought this would be a simple process. Take out the nut, put in the new switch and start the car. But I just can't take out the stupid nut. So I just wanted to see if my switch was faulty so I was going to unplug the oem switch and put put in the new switch and see if the car starts if I'm manually press the switch and try to start the car... but now I cant even do that. I'm unable to unplug the switch lol. If I take it to a shop, how would they do it differently?

At this point, I'm about to take it into the shop tomorrow. But let me know if anyone has any other advice.

And thank you everyone for your advises!

JARblue

You need to unplug the switch, and the set nut on the backside of the mounting bracket (opposite from the welded net in your photo) needs to be loosened slightly as well. It may be a bit of a pain, but both of these things have to happen in order to unscrew the switch.

It's easier in that video because the guy doesn't have that welded nut on the mounting bracket anymore. If there is enough slack in the wiring you might be able to unscrew the switch once the set nut is loosened. The shop is just going to find a guy small enough to get in there and unplug the switch - they won't have an issue getting it unplugged.

Also note when I referred to the blue portion of the connector earlier (tab on the opposite side of the blue) I was referring to the light blue portion of the connector. I forgot the other side was a darker blue. The tab is on the darker blue side.

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JZNx

Hey, thank you for the thorough update! I tried again and still no luck. Even if the dealership is able to unplug the switch, they'll still have to unbolt the welded looking bolt in order to replace them. You can remove the nut underneath but there still wont be enough space to take out the switch without actually taking out the welded looking nut.

JARblue

Once the connector is unplugged there will be room.

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JZNx

Not sure if anyone's interested in an update but here's an update.

I ended up taking it into a nearby Nissan service center at this point to see what the root cause of all this is. I took it in, and spoke to my guy and told him about how I already bought a new safety clutch switch and I just need to have it installed. He pulled one of the tech and the dude literally swapped it out in the parking lot... LOL AT THIS POINT I ALMOST **** MY PANTS... HE DID IT SO EASILY LMAO...

However, that wasn't the issue. And at this point, they had to run diagnostics to figure out what's really wrong with the car. Well the issue wasn't as simple. First off, apparently, my battery was only at 8V... which was bit shocking but had that replaced.

However the car still wouldn't start. At this point he calls me back and states that my engine is dead... I WAS LIKE WTF? lol And then few minutes later he video calls me with his tech to show me whats going on. And the the issue was that something was messed up with my pulley or jammed or something... As in he could not rotate the pulley at all, it was like stuck. He had a wrench and he literally could not turn it at all (it was like jammed or stuck). However he was able to rotate the pulley counter clockwise but not clockwise. And few minutes later he states that they were able to get the car started but they're not able to figure out the root cause. Tech was talking about how I have an aftermarket clutch and something could have went wrong. And I do, and not only that I have stage3 clutch along with a z1 csc elimination kit installed as well.

So at this point my car is up and running and they think what really happened is something (as in broken parts or nuts/bolts) broke off and got stuck inside the engine not allowing the engine to crack at all. Due to my parts being aftermarkets, they couldn't do much. It was either that or put everything back to oem LOL (which would cost insanely a lot). So at this point, the tech states that the car starts but doesn't know when or if this will happen again lol. Tech states that everything was running fine but the engine just wouldn't crank due to something being stuck or jammed.

Here's what I think happened... The night that my car stopped turning on, I was driving and had my 2nd gear to about 5-6k rpm and while pressing the clutch, I did hear an odd noise almost as if something snapped or broke off. And after that the car would not start. That was the reason why I thought the root cause was switch at first. But I think something from my clutch or csc elimination kit broke off and jammed somewhere...

So what I'm going to do is go to the guys that installed my clutch and csc elimination kit and see if anything looks out of the ordinary and go from there...

I hope this information is useful to someone and hope that nothing like this ever happens to anyone!

If anyone has any insight or questions, please feel free to reply

JZNx

Hey Guys!

Here's another update! Not that it matters but hey, why not? lol

This morning, I drove my z to the shop that installed my stage3 clutch along with CSC Elimination Kit. Upon arrival, my guy had one of the guy test drive the car. And immediately he stalled the car and was struggling because the clutch was sensitive. And I forgot to mention that the guy from Nissan service was also telling me the same thing, how he stalled my car multiple times and that the clutch is extremely sensitive and that it shouldn't be that sensitive. So after the drive, they wanted to bleed the fluids and go from there. However, after bleeding the fluids, they couldn't get the pressure back on the clutch. As in at this point, when you press the clutch peddle, it just drops and doesn't pop back up. Instead, you would manually have to pull it with your feet.

At this point, he states that it's either master or slave cylinder. We were able to find a local distributor that had a master cylinder, so we replaced the master cylinder. However even after that, issue was not fixed. At this point, we're waiting on the parts for the slave cylinder. It should arrive Thursday so I'll post another update.

Here's some thoughts: Now I'm wondering why did I even installed the z1 csc elimination kit? And now I'm wondering, was my slave was to go out? Did I just get lucky and got there at the right time before my car actually breaks down? Or did I get unlucky? In a way, I feel like if I just drove the car, nothing would of happened lol. Not sure what to make of it.

Here's my concern. Let's say that replacing the slave cylinder fixes the clutch and now my clutch is good to go. However, I still havent got to the bottom of the original issue. Why was the engine not cranking? If you're in my shoe, would you have them drop the tranny to further see if there are any in depth issues? Labor on dropping tranny alone is $350.

-ZS-Carpenter

If you pay to have the trans pulled bite the bullet, toss the Z1 kit in the trash and order a CMAK. The Z1 kit the problem. It is an overly complicated kit that is extremely easy to fvck up the installation.

While they are looking at it make sure they check all the connections on the starter and inspect the wiring. The starter has to come out to get the trans out. That's where I would start looking for the starting issue.

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