Oil Temp Gauge issue
 

Hi, I have a 2016 370z Sport Tech. Last week went to jump in the car and drove off and realized the oil temp gauge was stuck below at 6 o'clock and the speedo was reading low- like really low going about 40mph and it read 15mph. went back to the house and jumped in my grocery getter and left for work. I took the car to Nissan (I have an extended warranty). The car currently has 27,000 mile on it. Got in it to take it to the dealership the next day and the speedo was now working, but the oil temp gauge was still in-op. At the dealership, I turned the car off in the bay and had to restart it and guess what- the oil temp gauge went back to normal at start up bouncing to top of gauge and then back to the temp it was running after driving it. The dealership said that the only codes were comm codes 1 for tranny comm. The other plain communication codes and could'nt find anything else and the gauge is now back to normal?? They checked the battery also and said battery was fine just not a good brand- cheapy. So, I drive home park it in the garage overnight and go out to start it and same thing- oil temp gauge not working and by the way the speedo had only the one incident and has been working fine. Go back to the dealership and once again I get there,shut the car off and restart it and oil gauge works. The tech thinks its the oil temp gauge going bad. Warranty will cover it, but I'm not sure I want the interior partially torn apart and my service advisor also suggested (he inferred the tech had the same opinion) to drive the car and see what happens since when I shut the car off and restart it"s fine. I was thinking of putting a good battery in it and go from there. Any thoughts of what might be going and recommendations for quality battery would be appreciated. Thanks

Remove the oil temp sensor from the block down by the oil filter. Wipe clean the end of it. Might be some junk on the end. Reinstall, and see what happens.

Most modern cars, including the 370Z, can act flaky if system voltage is low. Check voltage at several points with and without the engine running and after sitting overnight.

Thanks, will try that. Dealership also said maybe to disconnect the battery and touch neg and positive ends together to discharge the system- capacitive discharge , then hook up the battery and see if that helps. Not to sure, but that's something they can do because I don't feel like really messing up the electrical system. Or is this a normal trouble shooting procedure?? Looked at the Great pictures and wish list of your Z Rusty.

The capacitors will discharge if you unhook the pos/neg on the batt, pump the brakes a few times, and leave it disconnected overnight.

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Most ECU's need 10.5 volts to operate. If voltage drops below that, the ECU will shut down to save it's self. If the voltage drops close to that during starting. You may get some strange things happening. This may be one of them.

Thank you. :tiphat:

Thank you again. All of the input is greatly appreciated!!! I'm going to replace the battery with a good one- Red Top if you all think that would be a good choice, do the capacitive discharge and remove/check the oil sensor and go from there. Any other thoughts/knowledge/ideas are always appreciated.
Thank You!!!

Stay away from Optima. They been having quality issues since they got sold.

Here's the battery to get.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...000%7CL3*15597

I need a new battery myself. My 2013 is still on the factory battery.

Thanks.

I still have the oem battery. It's 9 yrs old. :rofl2:

No, no, no. Shorting the cables can cause too much current inside the ECM, BCM, TCM, etc, when the capacitors discharge through a dead short. Can probably get away with it 100 times before it bites you in the *** - but why take a chance?

This is the way to do it - it discharges the capacitors through a load (the brake lamps) not a dead short. It only takes stepping on the brake pedal for a few seconds, you don't have to let it sit overnight. Pos or neg post - doesn't have to be both.

:iagree:

Hey, you all are unbelievable. I really appreciate the advice. I absolutely love my Z and don't want anything that I can prevent happening to her. I am able to replace engines, clutches, brakes, distributor's, water pumps, alternators, etc but the electrical/computer components on cars now is quite a bit more in depth then it used to be. Again, Thank you!! Replacing battery in the morning and will do as you guys suggested and see if it fixes the problem.

Hi, just wanted to update on status of oil temp gauge. I did the suggestions
you all posted. Replaced the battery, brake pedal discharge, etc. Let car sit overnight and it still did not work. Called dealership and told them to order the gauge cluster with an appointment the following week when the part came in. Well, guess what happened next? Went out to drive the car and the gauge worked. Popped right up and went to its normal position when cold. Registered temp when car warmed up to operating temp. It has now been operating as it should. Hopefully it keeps working. Any thoughts?