Not sure why but when I swapped over to my wife's computer I was able to run it. Now, I'm just trying to figure out how to configure the controls along with the button frequency range...; I was really thinking this would be much simpler than it is lol.

Cyber, would you happen to have any of the programming video links you mentioned previously?

Awesome! Yeah I struggled to figure it out at first. After I understood the interface however it was fairly easy. Playing with the screw adjustments to get all the buttons working took some time as well.

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I just came here to ask you about how you went about your Y cable usb setup and noticed that I didn't answer your question. Sorry about that, I think I read and replied from the notification shade on my phone and must have missed it. Hopefully you got it all figured out by now but if not here's the videos I used to sort of get an idea of what to do. The videos are both from the same channel which has tons of setup videos for different devices so watching them gave me better context despite not being the best tutorials.

https://youtu.be/JtzPmfz6J4o
https://youtu.be/V50JKljC5LQ

Under the "button" tab you then go to the A sub-tab and hit auto detect and then push all the buttons and hit auto detect again to stop the detection process. So long as all the buttons show up on the bar (not all on top of each other or so spread out that some aren't read) you're good. Otherwise make an adjustment on the screw and try again. Then repeat for channel B. Assigning the keyboard presses was fairly straightforward.

I also plan to pick up an AXXESS AX-NIS32BT to jump some pins on the bluetooth module harness to give access (no pun intended) to the bluetooth steering wheel controls.

No, I could never get it to recognize the steering wheel controls so I figured I'd just have one of the local audio shops handle it whenever I had some time to drop the car off.

As for the Y, which part are you referencing, my power, my audio, or just how I have everything setup? I can take some pictures and make a diagram of my setup later this evening.

I was interested in your power setup that allows you to charge the tablet from an outlet at home. I'm having an issue about once a week where half the battery drains overnight and it would be nice not to take the tablet out to charge.

Would it be helpful if I took some pictures of my joycon exr wiring?

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Sure, that'd be great. I tried ordering a new Metra harness that had the steering wheel wires pre-sorted/separated, but I could never get them to register with the Joycon once I had the program running on the laptop and everything wired in the car.

I ended up falling asleep early last night but I'll make sure to get it for you once I get off this afternoon.

My wires were a bit cluttered since I haven't cleaned everything up from the Joycon "install" (if you could even call it that); so I ended up making a diagram that should break it down.

https://i.imgur.com/Nzfcrpnh.jpg

So basically, coming out of the Metra harness it goes as such:
1. Metra > JTRON power adapter

2. JTRON > USB extension (needed a male/male)
* Only one of the JTRON outlets are used

3. USB extension > [Male input] USB to Male/Female Micro USB splitter
a) Female is used for wall power input
b) Male is used for vehicle power [Acc/On]

4. Male Micro USB to Lava OTG hub (#TL-002)
a) Power < Micro USB [Male]
b) Tablet > Galaxy Tab A (I used 5-pin OTG cables from the tablet to the Lava hub)
c) USB > DAC > 3.5mm to RCA cable > Crossover


Input (under driver's side knee pad)

https://i.imgur.com/3I0fqixl.jpg


Powered from wall with vehicle off

https://i.imgur.com/uYxL9kLl.jpg

Thanks, that makes sense. I'm thinking about replicating it but hooking up that y to the usb port in the console using another harness. Have you tried that?

I'll probably have everything out tomorrow to take pictures of the joycon because I just found out that I have to self isolate for 14 days because a coworker had symptoms. Also I forgot to hook up my ac controls a few days ago when I was messing around with things, haha.

Until then here's a picture I found on my phone that has most of the information I think you'd need. My car has the bose system and no navigation. Pin 6 and 16 went to channel A and B respectively although it shouldn't matter. I grounded the joycon ground wires for channels A and B as well as pin 15 from the Metra harness to the same bolt I used for the mk1 electronics.

Let me know if there's something more specific you want a picture of for when I have it out tomorrow. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a97401bd4d.jpg

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My car didn't come with a USB outlet so it wasn't an option. I added one in place of the center blanks, but it's only wired to vehicle power so it wouldn't make a difference lol.

Thanks for the diagram, I'll check it out again this weekend.

I also just ordered one of these, does not look like an off the shelf install. I did find a hopefully simple solution for reverse camera.
Easycap is a ~10 dollar video to usb device. The app looks a bit dates but hopefully wont be an issue.
Depending on the sound quality from the 3.5mm I might try and usb or bluetooth option.

BTW what paint did you use?

Let me save you some time: The sound quality from the 3.5 is garbage, even with an external crossover and amp (think worse than OEM).

Paint was Rustoleum (either satin or flat), but if you just ordered the newer Brainiac plastics come with the black ABS plastic look from the factory.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...colid=&coliid=

Thinking this may be better, it's still an 3.5 to what will be a splitter.

TaoTronics Bluetooth Car Kit, Bluetooth Receiver, Bluetooth 4.2 Hands-Free Audio Adapter

Today I finally got around to implementing a usb y setup similar to yours. I was able to make it work with my factory usb port so I was pretty happy about that. Now I just need to figure out whats draining my tablet overnight on occasion.

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I have the V1 kit installed and am having the same power issue as people in this thread have explained. I want to do the Y charge cable as multiple people have done here, however I have the Brainiac all-in-1 electronics box instead of stand alone parts. How would I go attaching a Y cable to the Brainiac electronics box outputs and what cable should I order?

Thank you,
Nick

Sorry, didn't see this before but I know with the Lava hub, you had to open it up and snip one of the connections so that the accessories wouldn't continue to draw power from the tablet once the car was off. There's a video on Workshop 12's blog that shows how to do it (if you're using that device).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noyLO9bN0H8

No clue really, I'm not sure how it's wired inside of the box. You may be able to simply add a male to female USB-A extension to one of the open USB outlets and just plug it directly into the wall how we do, but that's really a question for the guys at Workshop 12... unless you just want to experiment (that's pretty much what I did :rofl2: ).