So the dealer is going to apply the EPP (External paint protection?) and Interior paint protection for my 370z. The vehicle is brand new and I have plans to strip
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01-09-2010, 02:15 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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EPP. Claybar first?
So the dealer is going to apply the EPP (External paint protection?) and Interior paint protection for my 370z. The vehicle is brand new and I have plans to strip wash w/detergent, claybar, and wax. Should I do this prior to them doing the EPP?
Has anyone had this done? Any positive/negative views? I know people think it's snake oil but it is the warranty that I'm after here; not particularly the "protection."
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01-09-2010, 02:35 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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for the shop to properly apply any sort of SpeedShield (Clear Bra) the wax needs to be stripped. ideally they will strip the wax, wash it a couple times, bar it, then apply the shield. i've spoken with some highly recommended shops in the area here and that is the way they prefer to do it.
these are local here, but the info is good. spent some time talking to both of the owners on the phone and in person at a show. Speed Shield | Paint Protection Film | Dallas, Texas frisco mobile car detail company, frisco detail company, plano mobile car wash, plano mobile detail company, mobile detail company in dallas, mobile detail comany in southlake, southlake mobile detail company, coppel mobile detail company, lewisville
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01-09-2010, 04:05 PM | #3 (permalink) | |
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01-09-2010, 04:07 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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01-09-2010, 04:38 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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oh, never heard of that...
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01-10-2010, 11:48 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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that paint protection stuff is bunk. did it cost you anything? it basically is nothing more than a sealant on the exterior and an interior cleaner with teflon in it for the interior. this stuff can be bought at a local store and done by yourself.
if you MUST have it done, i'd clay the car first to remove the glue from the plastic the manufacturer puts over the car and to remove rail dust, those tiny tiny little rust balls that seem like a mf'er to get off. you dont want a sealant over the glue and rust. and the chances of the dealer caring as much as you do is slim to none. i'd do it yourself.
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01-12-2010, 11:02 AM | #9 (permalink) | |
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01-12-2010, 11:22 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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just make sure you wash it correctly not trying to scratch paint with wash mits etc... and blot dry ussing waffle weave towels to avaoid any possible swirling and scratching of the new paint. clay bar the vehicle. stop, then have the dealer do the paint protection. you do not want a substance on the surface before any semi-permanant product is to be aplied as it will not cure and protect to its full ability. when you wash the car, use a good shampoo like CG citrus wash, and do a less of a dolution in order for it to take off any and all possible oils, waxes, etc...
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01-12-2010, 05:33 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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well in that case.... our paint sucks so any warranty coverage for free is great!
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01-15-2010, 09:14 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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I posted a while back about this Paint Guard crap the dealer offers for $800. They gave it to me free accidentally but I declined to have it applied. It's a garbage automatic application, similar to a tiny auto carwash. They spray the junk on everything (paint, windows, plastic, etc). It's hard to believe it's anything special if the application process is so crude.
If you do choose to do it, definitely clay your car. I had some water spots on the hood that I clay bar'd and it's amazing how well the clay works. The hood was as smooth as a baby's......cheek after the bar'ing.
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01-16-2010, 05:56 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Thanks guys. I dawn washed, dawn washed, clayed, turtle cleaner waxed, and then kit waxed. They're going to apply the EPP over top of it this week. I'm tempted to take it through the brushless car wash immediately afterwards :-)
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