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2018 Trunk Release

Has anyone figured out whether its possible to retrofit the new 2018 cabin trunk release switch without the BCM module messing things up. I notice Z1 Motorsports are stocking it

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Old 08-29-2018, 05:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2018 Trunk Release

Has anyone figured out whether its possible to retrofit the new 2018 cabin trunk release switch without the BCM module messing things up.

I notice Z1 Motorsports are stocking it which perhaps indicates it is possible.
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Old 08-29-2018, 06:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It should only require putting the new switch in parallel with the existing switch. But I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams, so I could be wrong.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow $48 for a switch! Here are some cheaper ones that would work for less then $10, had them bookmarked for a future project.

https://www.wiringproducts.com/full-...ocker-switches
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Old 08-29-2018, 11:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Lol....buys expensive car and then complains about a $50 switch. Buy used ones off eBay for less.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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mlsully and DeliriousClam - you both are awesome. Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-04-2018, 06:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Question for those that have installed the trunk release using an OEM switch: the switch and pigtail I received has four wires coming from it (black, black/grey, blue, purple). Since mlsully said that it's a negative pulse switch, I'm assuming I'll be using the two black wires to complete the circuit (please correct me if I'm wrong). If that's the case, which of the remaining blue and purple wires would be used for illumination and what is the extra wire used for, if anything? My pigtail came from a Nissan Murano, if that matters.



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Old 06-15-2019, 08:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthStyle View Post
Question for those that have installed the trunk release using an OEM switch: the switch and pigtail I received has four wires coming from it (black, black/grey, blue, purple). Since mlsully said that it's a negative pulse switch, I'm assuming I'll be using the two black wires to complete the circuit (please correct me if I'm wrong). If that's the case, which of the remaining blue and purple wires would be used for illumination and what is the extra wire used for, if anything? My pigtail came from a Nissan Murano, if that matters.



I’m giving this install a try this weekend on my ‘13.

- do the blue and purple wires from your harness tap into the same blue and purple wires at the bcm?

- did you split into the wires at the bcm and run under the carpets to the center console? Or did you find a way to identify the wires to splice closer to the actual switch?
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Old 06-28-2019, 01:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bmstitt View Post
I’m giving this install a try this weekend on my ‘13.

- do the blue and purple wires from your harness tap into the same blue and purple wires at the bcm?

- did you split into the wires at the bcm and run under the carpets to the center console? Or did you find a way to identify the wires to splice closer to the actual switch?
You only connect one wire to the gray wire in the BCM. The other wire goes to ground. For the illumination pair of wires, use a test light to see which wire goes positive from one the harness plugs under the cup holder that's normally used for the heated seats. Connect the positive wire there and the other to ground.
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You are doing great work, but sorry, I do not see the point of this mod. One still has to walk to the hatch and lift it. What difference does it make if you press a button inside or outside?

I am not trying to be negative or diminish your work in any way. Just trying to understand.

Maybe if I was explained what the advantage was, I would do this mod too.
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Old 09-06-2018, 08:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You are doing great work, but sorry, I do not see the point of this mod. One still has to walk to the hatch and lift it.
Keep a long pole to push open the hatch from the inside. Assuming you can't just accelerate to close the hatch (like you can with the passenger door), tie a string to the hatch so you can pull it closed from the inside as well
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I’ve used it many times where I pop my hatch when I pull up to a friend’s house for them to throw **** in the back of the car. It’s easier than trying to explain where the outside button is. Yes, for the most part it is redundant, but it’s a quick $20 mod and fill up the blank button slots.
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I’ve used it many times where I pop my hatch when I pull up to a friend’s house for them to throw **** in the back of the car. It’s easier than trying to explain where the outside button is. Yes, for the most part it is redundant, but it’s a quick $20 mod and fill up the blank button slots.
Pretty much the same... and it gets rid of the last blank in my center console so that's just an extra plus.
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mlsully View Post
I’ve used it many times where I pop my hatch when I pull up to a friend’s house for them to throw **** in the back of the car. It’s easier than trying to explain where the outside button is. Yes, for the most part it is redundant, but it’s a quick $20 mod and fill up the blank button slots.
Same here, everyone I know initially doesn't know where the external trunk release is situated so its easier for me to use an interior switch and saves me getting out of the car to open it for them.

2018+ Z's come with the switch anyway...

To conclude this thread today I ran the last wire to the BCM so everything works. It is indeed on the passenger side on a RHD - REP given to mlsully & DeleriousClam.

I can now open the trunk whether the ignition is on or off.

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Old 09-04-2018, 09:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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No way anybody but me touches my car (other then dealership staff i guess).
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Old 09-05-2018, 08:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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No way anybody but me touches my car (other then dealership staff guess).
Well then this probably isn't for you.
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