Yay! Trackspec!

Hotrodz · 02-06-2018, 02:41 PM

I just took a hard look at the pictures on the site and they are of a Nismo. The side skirts are a dead give away.

KngScottieV · 02-06-2018, 03:34 PM

I got blasted by some rocks when a guy went off track and flipped them out to me, ended up with a bunch of chips and a broken windshield. I might need to pick this up before I repaint my hood...

Wonka2581 · 02-06-2018, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KngScottieV

I got blasted by some rocks when a guy went off track and flipped them out to me, ended up with a bunch of chips and a broken windshield. I might need to pick this up before I repaint my hood...

Damn dude that sucks, I use trackarmour!! It’s the best stuff not pricy and protects your paint.. here’s a link

https://www.trackarmour.com

Krylon · 02-25-2018, 09:04 PM

Disclaimer: This isnt a how-to, just providing some info that might help others.

Tools:

Harbor Freight 4" corded angle grinder [HF #60373]
SAS adjustable Face Shield [HF #46526]
Safety Glasses
Dust mask
Diablo 4"x .040" (1mm) Metal Cut Off Wheel [Home Depot #247559]
Blue painters tape
Moving blankets [HF]
Plastic
Exacto knife
2 testosterone filled sacs

Tool Notes:

Cut Off Wheel - I purchased 2 but you'll only need 1.

Safety - I used a face shield and safety glasses. I used a dust mask and some ear plugs too. Make sure you re-adjust the angle grinder shield to best protect you.

Exacto knife - Used to cut and peel off the template guide lines. I spent a good amount of time doing this.

Prep Notes:

Blankets/Plastic - You'll want to cover the entire engine bay and from the top the windshield forward. The aluminum dust gets everywhere.

Masking - I taped off a huge swath of each side for the side vents. Only on the top, I did not mask the underside of the hood.

Cutting Notes:

General - Let the tool do the work. Dont push to vigoursly trying to cut through faster. For each straight edge I made some back and forth motions, slowly and carefully, across the entire length to start a groove/cut line. I then plunged about 1/4 of the way from a corner, backed into the corner then proceeded the rest of the length.

Corners - The corners are a bit tough. Just keep an eye on your cut line and dont overshoot. Most of the corners turned out ok but 2 of them I had to take a longer look at to do them properly.

Finishing notes:

I vacuumed all the dust up from the enginer bay and all around. I used a dremel with a cylindrcal sanding disc to smooth out the edges. Although this was good I am going to get a small file as I need to smooth our the space between the ribs that were cut. I will also paint anything cut and let it dry before finishing the install.

I spent about 2 weeks agonizing over using different angle grinders or a jigsaw. I went with the angle grinder because of the many videos I watched and it was noted it was more likely faster.

Hotrodz · 02-25-2018, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krylon

Disclaimer: This isnt a how-to, just providing some info that might help others.

Tools:

Harbor Freight 4" corded angle grinder [HF #60373]
SAS adjustable Face Shield [HF #46526]
Safety Glasses
Dust mask
Diablo 4"x .040" (1mm) Metal Cut Off Wheel [Home Depot #247559]
Blue painters tape
Moving blankets [HF]
Plastic
Exacto knife
2 testosterone filled sacs

Tool Notes:

Cut Off Wheel - I purchased 2 but you'll only need 1.

Safety - I used a face shield and safety glasses. I used a dust mask and some ear plugs too. Make sure you re-adjust the angle grinder shield to best protect you.

Exacto knife - Used to cut and peel off the template guide lines. I spent a good amount of time doing this.

Prep Notes:

Blankets/Plastic - You'll want to cover the entire engine bay and from the top the windshield forward. The aluminum dust gets everywhere.

Masking - I taped off a huge swath of each side for the side vents. Only on the top, I did not mask the underside of the hood.

Cutting Notes:

General - Let the tool do the work. Dont push to vigoursly trying to cut through faster. For each straight edge I made some back and forth motions, slowly and carefully, across the entire length to start a groove/cut line. I then plunged about 1/4 of the way from a corner, backed into the corner then proceeded the rest of the length.

Corners - The corners are a bit tough. Just keep an eye on your cut line and dont overshoot. Most of the corners turned out ok but 2 of them I had to take a longer look at to do them properly.

Finishing notes:

I vacuumed all the dust up from the enginer bay and all around. I used a dremel with a cylindrcal sanding disc to smooth out the edges. Although this was good I am going to get a small file as I need to smooth our the space between the ribs that were cut. I will also paint anything cut and let it dry before finishing the install.

I spent about 2 weeks agonizing over using different angle grinders or a jigsaw. I went with the angle grinder because of the many videos I watched and it was noted it was more likely faster.

Nice job!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

redondoaveb · 02-25-2018, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Nice job!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Rusty · 02-25-2018, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Nice job!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Baronsmokes · 03-24-2018, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krylon

Disclaimer: This isnt a how-to, just providing some info that might help others.

Tools:

Harbor Freight 4" corded angle grinder [HF #60373]
SAS adjustable Face Shield [HF #46526]
Safety Glasses
Dust mask
Diablo 4"x .040" (1mm) Metal Cut Off Wheel [Home Depot #247559]
Blue painters tape
Moving blankets [HF]
Plastic
Exacto knife
2 testosterone filled sacs

Tool Notes:

Cut Off Wheel - I purchased 2 but you'll only need 1.

Safety - I used a face shield and safety glasses. I used a dust mask and some ear plugs too. Make sure you re-adjust the angle grinder shield to best protect you.

Exacto knife - Used to cut and peel off the template guide lines. I spent a good amount of time doing this.

Prep Notes:

Blankets/Plastic - You'll want to cover the entire engine bay and from the top the windshield forward. The aluminum dust gets everywhere.

Masking - I taped off a huge swath of each side for the side vents. Only on the top, I did not mask the underside of the hood.

Cutting Notes:

General - Let the tool do the work. Dont push to vigoursly trying to cut through faster. For each straight edge I made some back and forth motions, slowly and carefully, across the entire length to start a groove/cut line. I then plunged about 1/4 of the way from a corner, backed into the corner then proceeded the rest of the length.

Corners - The corners are a bit tough. Just keep an eye on your cut line and dont overshoot. Most of the corners turned out ok but 2 of them I had to take a longer look at to do them properly.

Finishing notes:

I vacuumed all the dust up from the enginer bay and all around. I used a dremel with a cylindrcal sanding disc to smooth out the edges. Although this was good I am going to get a small file as I need to smooth our the space between the ribs that were cut. I will also paint anything cut and let it dry before finishing the install.

I spent about 2 weeks agonizing over using different angle grinders or a jigsaw. I went with the angle grinder because of the many videos I watched and it was noted it was more likely faster.

Nice Job
Looks great.
Cut holes in my Cf hood for low profile hood pins.
Nerve wracking.You can not screw up.

Rusty · 03-25-2018, 10:32 PM

Side vents installed.

Krylon · 03-01-2018, 11:48 PM

Some new notes and observations:

On my Z, a 2009, the outer most edges of the vents where the rivets must go are inside of a underhood rib. It'll be difficult to hold a washer in between the rib and the hood skin unless you cut the rib back some or cut some access holes. I chose to make holes and a use a special tool but I believe cutting it back or cutting an access section may be easier.

What I ended up doing was marking where the middle 2 rivet holes would be by using a long piece of painters tape. The outer corner rivet holes were marked by drilling straight down. You may be able to do this for the middle holes as well. I drilled small holes, 1/8", from the underside. I then took a step drill bit and drilled a larger hole. Be careful because you dont want to go through the top of the hood, I only stepped through 3 or 4. I worked up to a 1/2 inch hole using regular drill bits. I then used a 1/4" ratchet extension with a rivet taped on the end and used it to hold the backer washer in place while I used the rivet gun. The needle nose pliers I used were too thick to open up enough to hold the washer in place. Some tape was left behind but no one will see it.

Additional template notes - On the template there are 4 squares in each corner and these represent the corner rivets. You need to keep these spots marked on the car as it'll help your square up the vent placement. Luckily I center punched these holes from the template and had them marked.

Riveting - I did this by myself but if you can get someone to assist that would definitely make this part easier. There is a note in the instructions that mention you should tape around the rivets to prevent the rivet gun from jumping and making a mark. Absolutely do this.

Krylon · 03-01-2018, 11:50 PM

Here it is finished up:

Rusty · 03-24-2018, 11:23 PM

Installed the center section.

Rusty · 03-24-2018, 11:26 PM

More pic's of center section.

Still have to do the side vents.

ihiryu · 04-27-2018, 12:42 PM

I know this is a super late reply, but I installed mine, and after a few weeks of off/on rain here in TX, I killed one of my plugs. Now what happened was, water leaked down on cylinder 2, and it went past the coil boot insulator, and did have some build up. So I threw on a very minute bead of silicone to help seal it up. But just wanted to give you guys a heads up. My Z is my semi daily driver (I have another car, but prefer to drive the z, I'm sure you guys understand lol), and does NOT get parked in a garage.

Rusty · 04-27-2018, 10:06 PM

Mine is out in the rain right now. Have eastwest's Z parked in my garage for the night.

02-06-2018, 02:41 PM	#1 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	I just took a hard look at the pictures on the site and they are of a Nismo. The side skirts are a dead give away. Wonka2581 likes this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

02-06-2018, 03:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
KngScottieV Base Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Utah Age: 40 Posts: 155 Drives: 13 370z MagmaRed M6S Rep Power: 23	I got blasted by some rocks when a guy went off track and flipped them out to me, ended up with a bunch of chips and a broken windshield. I might need to pick this up before I repaint my hood... Wonka2581 likes this. __________________ 2013 Nissan 370z Magma Red Base w/Sport package 6speed. AAM intakes (S-line for now, still needs tuned), Berk HFC's, ARK DT-S cat-back, CJM baffled oil pan, and FI 34 row oil cooler.

02-25-2018, 09:04 PM	#4 (permalink)
Krylon Base Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Virginia Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 20	TrackSpec Phase I Disclaimer: This isnt a how-to, just providing some info that might help others. Tools: Harbor Freight 4" corded angle grinder [HF #60373] SAS adjustable Face Shield [HF #46526] Safety Glasses Dust mask Diablo 4"x .040" (1mm) Metal Cut Off Wheel [Home Depot #247559] Blue painters tape Moving blankets [HF] Plastic Exacto knife 2 testosterone filled sacs Tool Notes: Cut Off Wheel - I purchased 2 but you'll only need 1. Safety - I used a face shield and safety glasses. I used a dust mask and some ear plugs too. Make sure you re-adjust the angle grinder shield to best protect you. Exacto knife - Used to cut and peel off the template guide lines. I spent a good amount of time doing this. Prep Notes: Blankets/Plastic - You'll want to cover the entire engine bay and from the top the windshield forward. The aluminum dust gets everywhere. Masking - I taped off a huge swath of each side for the side vents. Only on the top, I did not mask the underside of the hood. Cutting Notes: General - Let the tool do the work. Dont push to vigoursly trying to cut through faster. For each straight edge I made some back and forth motions, slowly and carefully, across the entire length to start a groove/cut line. I then plunged about 1/4 of the way from a corner, backed into the corner then proceeded the rest of the length. Corners - The corners are a bit tough. Just keep an eye on your cut line and dont overshoot. Most of the corners turned out ok but 2 of them I had to take a longer look at to do them properly. Finishing notes: I vacuumed all the dust up from the enginer bay and all around. I used a dremel with a cylindrcal sanding disc to smooth out the edges. Although this was good I am going to get a small file as I need to smooth our the space between the ribs that were cut. I will also paint anything cut and let it dry before finishing the install. I spent about 2 weeks agonizing over using different angle grinders or a jigsaw. I went with the angle grinder because of the many videos I watched and it was noted it was more likely faster. Rusty, Hotrodz, Jayhovah and 6 others like this. Last edited by Krylon; 02-25-2018 at 09:08 PM. Reason: pic sizes

03-01-2018, 11:48 PM	#10 (permalink)
Krylon Base Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Virginia Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 20	Additional Notes Some new notes and observations: On my Z, a 2009, the outer most edges of the vents where the rivets must go are inside of a underhood rib. It'll be difficult to hold a washer in between the rib and the hood skin unless you cut the rib back some or cut some access holes. I chose to make holes and a use a special tool but I believe cutting it back or cutting an access section may be easier. What I ended up doing was marking where the middle 2 rivet holes would be by using a long piece of painters tape. The outer corner rivet holes were marked by drilling straight down. You may be able to do this for the middle holes as well. I drilled small holes, 1/8", from the underside. I then took a step drill bit and drilled a larger hole. Be careful because you dont want to go through the top of the hood, I only stepped through 3 or 4. I worked up to a 1/2 inch hole using regular drill bits. I then used a 1/4" ratchet extension with a rivet taped on the end and used it to hold the backer washer in place while I used the rivet gun. The needle nose pliers I used were too thick to open up enough to hold the washer in place. Some tape was left behind but no one will see it. Additional template notes - On the template there are 4 squares in each corner and these represent the corner rivets. You need to keep these spots marked on the car as it'll help your square up the vent placement. Luckily I center punched these holes from the template and had them marked. Riveting - I did this by myself but if you can get someone to assist that would definitely make this part easier. There is a note in the instructions that mention you should tape around the rivets to prevent the rivet gun from jumping and making a mark. Absolutely do this. Felix 808 and KapitalZ like this.

03-01-2018, 11:50 PM	#11 (permalink)
Krylon Base Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Virginia Posts: 153 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 20	Finished Project Here it is finished up: Rusty, Ghostvette, Baronsmokes and 1 others like this.

04-27-2018, 12:42 PM	#14 (permalink)
ihiryu Base Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: TX Posts: 141 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z 6MT Rep Power: 34	I know this is a super late reply, but I installed mine, and after a few weeks of off/on rain here in TX, I killed one of my plugs. Now what happened was, water leaked down on cylinder 2, and it went past the coil boot insulator, and did have some build up. So I threw on a very minute bead of silicone to help seal it up. But just wanted to give you guys a heads up. My Z is my semi daily driver (I have another car, but prefer to drive the z, I'm sure you guys understand lol), and does NOT get parked in a garage. Rusty likes this.

04-27-2018, 10:06 PM	#15 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,322 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Mine is out in the rain right now. Have eastwest's Z parked in my garage for the night. Quicksilvers likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html