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The role and necessity of dual action polishers

So I've long been a nut about waxing my cars. I've always done it by hand, but the work of it when I got married and added my wife's car

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Old 11-25-2009, 08:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default The role and necessity of dual action polishers

So I've long been a nut about waxing my cars. I've always done it by hand, but the work of it when I got married and added my wife's car to the mix became too much. I tried a $30 B&D buffer which removes wax a bit faster than hand, but I don't think it does much for quality. I'm now considering a Porter Cable, but I'm wondering what the real role of these polishers is.

From what I've read, the PC is more for polishing than waxing. Polishing seems to be a somewhat rare event...perhaps twice a year to remove swirls or to take care of scuffed areas in the clear coat/paint. I have some minor clearcoat scuffs that I want to fix, but I don't know if a PC is really necessary. Any thoughts on the added benefit of having a PC or other applications (for my Z) to make the purchase worthwhile?
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Old 11-25-2009, 10:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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IMO nothing beats hand waxing. But a PC could deff help apply wax pretty fast. I dont know if its meant to use for waxing but theres no harm in using the soft polish attatchment for wax instead.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I think using a dual action rotary for wax is fine. You just need to use a specific pad with no cut for wax and sealants. I believe its a red pad you want.

Also, there are varying degrees of polish and pad cuts. Its perfectly fine to pair a mild polish with a pad with little to no cut to remove minor blemishes like swirl marks. Definitely check out properautocare.com! That site has some nice instructions and explainations.
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Old 11-26-2009, 12:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LiquidZ View Post
I think using a dual action rotary for wax is fine. You just need to use a specific pad with no cut for wax and sealants. I believe its a red pad you want.

Also, there are varying degrees of polish and pad cuts. Its perfectly fine to pair a mild polish with a pad with little to no cut to remove minor blemishes like swirl marks. Definitely check out properautocare.com! That site has some nice instructions and explainations.
Not that I have experience with this (car paint polishing), but I know that it's WAY better to start with teh least aggressive option first. Otherwise, you're just making more work foryourself getting out what the higher-grade stuff does.

As for using a DA to apply wax - sure bet. Huge time and effort saver. Just make sure things are clean, clean, clean, and check the pads often so you don't cause more problems. Follow the same method as you do with polishing, 2'x2' areas, then clean the pad and put more stuff on. You'll use less too and can apply it VERY thin and very evenly - less waste and less effort to remove it...

While I don't have a DA yet, I will. Will it be a Porter Cable? Dunno.
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by spearfish25 View Post
So I've long been a nut about waxing my cars. I've always done it by hand, but the work of it when I got married and added my wife's car to the mix became too much. I tried a $30 B&D buffer which removes wax a bit faster than hand, but I don't think it does much for quality. I'm now considering a Porter Cable, but I'm wondering what the real role of these polishers is.

From what I've read, the PC is more for polishing than waxing. Polishing seems to be a somewhat rare event...perhaps twice a year to remove swirls or to take care of scuffed areas in the clear coat/paint. I have some minor clearcoat scuffs that I want to fix, but I don't know if a PC is really necessary. Any thoughts on the added benefit of having a PC or other applications (for my Z) to make the purchase worthwhile?

I have one and it's a good product. Because it's random orbital, you can't burn the finish. "If" your car sees any outside action, they are great for polishing out hard water and acid rain spots. My car unfortunately sits outside all day while I am at work, so rain will sit on the finish and bake in the summer. Twice a year I use a very mild polish to "freshen up" the clear coat and remove any spots. I then do a coat of Meguires NXT, which I apply and remove by hand. If your car is garaged all the time, you might not use one very often, if at all. I like mine however, quality product.

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Old 11-26-2009, 01:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kannibul View Post
Not that I have experience with this (car paint polishing), but I know that it's WAY better to start with teh least aggressive option first. Otherwise, you're just making more work foryourself getting out what the higher-grade stuff does.

As for using a DA to apply wax - sure bet. Huge time and effort saver. Just make sure things are clean, clean, clean, and check the pads often so you don't cause more problems. Follow the same method as you do with polishing, 2'x2' areas, then clean the pad and put more stuff on. You'll use less too and can apply it VERY thin and very evenly - less waste and less effort to remove it...

While I don't have a DA yet, I will. Will it be a Porter Cable? Dunno.
You are absolutely correct. Always start out with the least aggressive option first because that might be enough.
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a few areas with minor clear coat scuffs that I'm going to try taking off by hand first. I was stupid and left my rear hatch open, resting against a padded wire conduit that runs above my car in the garage (condo). I was re-torquing wheel lugs and the slight shifting of the car back and forth scuffed the clear where it was touching the conduit. I was pissed, but I think a little elbow grease should do the trick. Otherwise, PC will be ordered next week Thanks for the input everyone.
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Old 11-26-2009, 03:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spearfish25 View Post
I have a few areas with minor clear coat scuffs that I'm going to try taking off by hand first. I was stupid and left my rear hatch open, resting against a padded wire conduit that runs above my car in the garage (condo). I was re-torquing wheel lugs and the slight shifting of the car back and forth scuffed the clear where it was touching the conduit. I was pissed, but I think a little elbow grease should do the trick. Otherwise, PC will be ordered next week Thanks for the input everyone.
A random orbit is a good tool, and the Porter Cable is highly recommended by those that do a lot of detailing. It's not really for the weekly waxing, but more for the seasonal polishing to bring everything back. You should be able to handle the scuffs with a good product to deal with that, either by hand or machine. My favorite, that I've kept a bottle of on the shelf for 30+ years is 3M Finesse-it II. Not cheap, but able to work magic on minor blems.. Once a year for me with a random orbit.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-f...l-p-11292.aspx

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Old 11-26-2009, 03:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modshack View Post
A random orbit is a good tool, and the Porter Cable is highly recommended by those that do a lot of detailing. It's not really for the weekly waxing, but more for the seasonal polishing to bring everything back. You should be able to handle the scuffs with a good product to deal with that, either by hand or machine. My favorite, that I've kept a bottle of on the shelf for 30+ years is 3M Perfect-it II. Not cheap, but able to work magic on minor blems.. Once a year for me with a random orbit.
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Old 11-26-2009, 03:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm going to try Meguiars M105 followed by M205 next spring. I have been hearing a lot of great stuff about it. I'll also be using the Porter Cable 7424xp.
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i use random orbitals for polishing. for waxing i usually do it by hand unless it's a fresh new coat and i want to burnish the carnauba into the paint.

if it's just a re-app of wax, i do it by hand.

and a lot of people think detailers use the 'buffer' to remove wax. not really the case. i usually remove wax by hand.
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