Daytime Running lights issue
 

As the title says, I have encountered a problem.

over the weekend, I made the switch from the 2016 bumper to the 2016 nismo bumper. Part of this conversion included changing from the stock daytime running lights (DRL) to the Carbonsignal nismo DRL.

while removing the stock bumper, I cut the wiring to the stock DRL. after the swap, The new DRL (5 LED per side, individually wired, wired all five ground/power together separately to form two larger wires.) were wired to the stock ground/power wires. both drivers and passenger side were cut and wired identically.

The battery was not disconnected when the wires were cut (first passenger, then drivers) but was disconnected after.

after reconnecting the battery, firing the car back up (and admiring the new bumper) I took the parking brake off only to see.... ONLY THE DRIVER SIDE DRL ARE ILLUMINATED. (though it looks fantastic.


does anyone know what could be causing this issue? as I mentioned, both sides were wired identically.

Also, is there only ONE fuse in the IPDM responsible for BOTH running lights? or do the drivers side and passenger side have individual fuses?

if there are two fuses.. I may have simply blown one

Questions, I seem to be having trouble with these carbonsignal LEDs. Specifically which wires did you connect to? Did you splice into the existing DRL harness?

When I try this there doesn't seem to be enough voltage to run power the LEDs. I do not have a multimeter on hand at the moment and was hoping you could help she'd some light. Thanks.

Since you installed LEDs, first thing I'd check is polarity on the side that isn't working.

Wiring diagrams, fuse locations, &c are in the FSM (link in my sig).

I cut the wires that ran to the stock DRL, and spliced the wires from the CS LED into the wire from the stock DRL. I am by no means an electrician...clearly.

I've realized there is only one fuse for the DRL, which must not be blown since the drivers side is functioning correctly. How would I check the polarity? What I thought would be a simple install has exploded into a much larger project

A voltmeter/VOM/multimeter will do the job - you should be able to find one for $15-25 at most auto parts stores, hardware stores, Radio Shack, Walmart, &c.

Put the voltmeter on the power wires going to the working light, taking notice of which meter leads is connected to which wire. With lights turned on check if measurement is + or -. Now move to the non-functioning light, connect meter leads to matching wires. If polarity is not the same, swap wires where they are spliced to wiring harness.

If this were a much older car, without all the computers and other electronics, your could just swap the wires and see if the light started working. Not a good idea with modern cars.

Thanks SouthArk, I'll give that a shot on my next day off. Frustrating to say the least.

just head back from my auto elec 3 of the leds are not lighting up so i have to buy some replacements and the rocketbunny kit is on backorder.......

Do you have image of the wiring you've done? If leds are series circuit connection then probably one of the leds connected in reverse. Check to see if positive and negative to each led is correct.
Did you try to test with OEM DRLS?

update on my end.

Auto elec testing them all individually 1 LED is shorting out which means when its connect to any other ones it shorts them aswell because the wire gets hot. 2 LEDS do nothing at all.

I am buying another 20 of them from a local supplier seeing they are cheap. Im sure i can get 10 good ones out of 30 hahah

Same problem with me sort of.. T tapped some halos to my DRL wires because I want them to be on during the day and off at night. Halos didn't power up, tested with volt light and it Lit up when I touched it with the light. And now my DRLs don't work lolol

fuse.....? I ended up wiring my new leds to the spare slot in the IPDM in the engine bay. Put a toggle switch in between the seat warmer buttons

Not quite sure where the fuse is. In the ipdm? I read a post about DRL relay but I have the base and I didn't see the blue relay

I noticed that voltage does not immediately get applied to the DRL harnesses. I had to release my e-brake and put it into gear before the voltage was applied. FYI. I did not know this before. I had an inkling but wasn't sure until I got my hands on a DMM.