When you measure all the wires, one is constant (12v), and the other is only constant (12v) when you hit the brakes? I don't know how the EVO-R light works,
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07-28-2015, 10:11 AM | #16 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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When you measure all the wires, one is constant (12v), and the other is only constant (12v) when you hit the brakes? I don't know how the EVO-R light works, but if it does the flashing internally, then something is wrong with it.
It's 12v, so you can wire up +/- to battery terminal. Based on my assumptions the 3rd wire is "switched," so momentarily connect it to the + terminal. If it doesn't flash, then the internal flashing circuit isn't working.
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07-29-2015, 11:30 AM | #19 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Take the module out of the circuit. If fog light straightens out, double-check your wiring*. If wiring is correct, then module is bad. See also DIGItonium's test procedure above. *Edit: Best to have someone else do this. One tends to get tunnel vision after a while.
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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma Last edited by SouthArk370Z; 07-29-2015 at 11:34 AM. |
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07-30-2015, 12:14 AM | #21 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Just my simplistic assumption:
The constant 12V (ignition) feeds the LED driver or transistor (FET). The base/gate is pulled down to ground so it can stay off. The timer chip gets power from the brake wire and normally starts pulsing immediately. The output of the timer chip feeds into the base/gate of the transistor, possibly pulling it high (12V) to turn it on driving the LEDs.
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Last edited by DIGItonium; 07-30-2015 at 12:19 AM. |
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