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So for those of you with coilovers...I cut holes for the ability to adjust. I then put rubber molding in to make it look semi factory. Just an idea for
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#1 (permalink) |
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Location: Charleston, SC
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So for those of you with coilovers...I cut holes for the ability to adjust. I then put rubber molding in to make it look semi factory. Just an idea for y'all. Oh and the Harness is attached to a welded plate so it is safe. Also have a metal slug in the brace so it will not collapse in a wreck. Just so I dont get flamed for being unsafe with my harness.
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#2 (permalink) |
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You know, I've never had coil overs on any my cars because of the stupid pot holes in the cities I've lived in.
Pardon me for my noobness but why would you want to have easy access? Is it to adjust the sensitivity of the coil-overs? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Yes. It is so I can make quick adjustments to the car. I did this for when I went to the tail of the dragon. I had to make several quick adjustments. I would have had to take the wheel off and unbolt the coil overs, pull them down and adjust. This made the process a lot easier. I know that most people will not want to cut into the car but for those that track this is a great idea.
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#4 (permalink) |
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I did the same, but only 1/2" holes. Similar to what Charles did for AXMEA?
![]() ![]() ![]() I have a template I can scan and email if anyone wants it.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I just went through my emails trying to find the template and it looks like I deleted it. You should reach out the Charles at powertrix he’s who I got the template from for my powertrix coil overs. Start small when making the holes so you can correct if needed, I started with 1/2 inch and then the other sides plug fit loose so I ended up with 5/8 each side. I think it came out pretty clean.
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#7 (permalink) |
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The measurement are:
2-3/4" from front of cover 2-1/2" from inside edge I just did mine and they were perfect. Only 3/8" holes.
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Better picture
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Better option, just get inverted shocks so the adjustment is down near where the shock connects to the wheel hub.
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you do risk breaking the tabs each time though...
on my G i use tokico d-specs and the rears are tucked away in the metal as well. for that car i didnt want to cut holes so each time i raised the car, pulled down the damper and turned the dial. ![]() |
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#15 (permalink) |
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I did the same thing and haven't looked back. I adjust mine quite frequent because of different roads and when my wife drives the car to school.
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