cown, i'll trust that you're right... but for me, i'll go with the 925 - only a few pounds more and offsets the 4 pounds of 0-gauge cable you will use.
frost, here are some mounting options... scroll down this link
Odyssey Dry Cell battery PC925T PC 925T

ya id prolly end up going with the 925 also

i have an optima in my track car and that sucker is heavy
i have it mounted on its side right behind the passenger seat

before it was mounted
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...7/IMG_6817.jpg

Couple of thoughts re: PC680 or similar like Braille....These aren't the "recommended" battery for almost any car. It doesn't have enough cold cranking amps, it's amp-hr rating is too low, and it doesn't last long with parasitic loads such as when you leave your car just sitting there for long periods of time (a couple weeks will drain it) but it IS enough to get by, but just.

That said, it works great, starts the car, runs the car, weighs very little, and is easy to mount almost anywhere. I just don't use it in the winter, rather during track season, and in warm weather, it's just fine.

As far as mounting, you can buy aluminum brackets (enclosed box) made specifically for this battery that makes installation convenient. I would NOT want anything mounted anywhere in the passenger area just strapped down. You certainly don't want it becoming a projectile in case of accident. Even at 15lbs it would be a missile.

The whole point of this PC680 battery is to loose maximum weight, not just move similar to normal battery weight somewhere else. Losing vehicle weight is a battle of accrual. A lb here, ounces there, etc., and this is a major win...because 20lb is hard to come by in this game.

You absolutely need some kind of tie down to secure the battery. You can't just have it sliding around the back. They do make custom tie downs for the PC680 and most other similar batteries.

^i didnt mean no tie down, sorry lapsed my mind.
yes you will need a tie down, i just ment you dont need a box or any sort of containment

In road racing I think that losing weight, and moving weight are just as important as one another. Losing the maximum amount of weight is the ideal situation, but a lot of times, that doesn't work out in production based cars. Most of the weight you are going to be able to easily remove will be off the rear of the car. Eventually the weight difference front & rear will hurt handling more than the weight savings helps it. Moving weight to the places where you need it most while having as little effect on handling as possible can be more beneficial in some situations.

Thread Revival, what else are we getting rid of?

as i mentioned in the track thread, got rid of washer fluid reservoir...

and oh by the way, also removed all oil from the car ! :( don't recommend that for anyone else !

what are the trade-offs with removing the low speed bumper ? i've heard some say that it doesn't matter b/c it is only good for <10mph, others say don't touch it because it is integral to the crumple zone and front impact protection dynamics

BUT... It would be fine if the car is driven every other day?? I do not plan on having any fancy audio equipment either...just the stock stuff.

Absolutely, I leave mine in spring to fall during track days weather. The only time it will discharge is if you leave it a couple weeks because of the parasitic loads (ECU, etc). So I just put it on a trickle charge (One of those $15 battery minders) if I'm on vacation or the like.

If you are referring to the aluminum beam behind the bumper it will change the behaviour of the crumple zone. Same as taking the spare tire out.

I wouldn't do that...

Finally installed my Odyssey PC680 battery :).

Keeping it in the stock location for now.

http://www.doubledownmotorsports.com/370zpc680.jpg

I like it a lot!!!

WOW it's dinky! I want one. How much do they cost?