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N/A build
So i'm buying a block after this year and plan on building the motor at a tortoises pace, I would like to have a beast street car with occasional track usage, never going to drag the car . I don't want to stroke the motor and I would like to keep the VVel heads. Would like some guidance. Here is what I'm thinking please feel free to correct me. Forged carrillo pistions (compression ratio??), arias or wiesco pistons, racing engine bearings, jun cams, and along with the other bolts ons, bigger fuel injectors and intake manifold and dry sump.
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Im sure you've seen 1slow370z's build, some good info there you can build off of. Unfortunatley I dont have any knowledge to share, but I wish you good luck :tup:
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N/A build eh? Well the number one question will be what are u building it for? track? Drag?(although ill doubt Drag)competition? ... w/e it is, it all has its own setup.
u need 2 convert to e85 setup with return fuel line and a pump that can has more flow for ur upgraded injectors, also setup 9:1 comp ratio and 4.5L internal setup an all. whole list cost lots. damn lots...raze rpm limit to 8.5 maybe 9k = 450hp????? |
why you dont check first how much you are going to spend upgrading your Z with a N/A setup VS installing a TT or SC setup... And how much whp do you want? my experience is that we always want more power on our cars hahha!! and in my case im just going to install some N/A parts like intakes, catback and maybe a tune.... when i finish that im going to start saving to go with a TT setup... just my 2 cents!
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imo, i'd ditch the vvel, go dry sump, and rev that b*tch to 9000
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I don't want to drag the car, I rather it have a set up for the track so I could take it out their every once in while. Far as power I know I'm going to have to rev the **** out of it to make power, I would like to have 400-425 whp on a NA set. I know the cost to attain that much power out of a NA would be a the same as going to F.I. route. Personally I love the way an all motor high revving engine speaks
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Any off the shelf piston is going to be too low of a compression for n/a power.Honestly youd probably be fine staying on stock pistons if your not looking into stroking the motor. And as stated before Id really get rid of vvel if your going that route. Do some hr heads and cams and then youll make power. Dry sump would be awesome but is really expensive, maybe look into the upgraded nismo pump it should handle higher rpms.
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i think the nismo pump will still have issues above 8300
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^^^ agreed. I would stay with stock piston, but if they let go at high revs. I'd be pissed to have to tear down the block again. When I go to build the motor I want to do it right the first time, instead of spending countless amount of money trying to take the cheaper route. Plus no one has any evidence on how high you can spin the stock internals, plus the durability at those rpms
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Subd
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I agree with that, then best bet is to look into some custom pistons maybe see if any of the companies will make you forged ones with oem compression or maybe a little higher.
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That engine is going to cost more than a FI setup. Mucho more if you want to get near 400whp. It's not worth it.
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To get 400rwhp, you WILL need higher compression and significantly enhanced cam lift and duration as well as a bottom end and oiling system that will remain safe at 8800 to 9000rpm. Once you raise the compression, you are going to seriously assess your fuel ... with e85 the obvious solution. JUN cams and retaining VVEL will not cut the mustard - you will get close, but not exceed 400rwhp. The other issue you will have is the ECU - the OEM ECU is not going to do the job. |
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Ditching the VVEL required you to ditch the stock ECU. You've got to run a standalone. That's the big hurdle for a lot of people. Standalones for this platform are not OBD compatible, meaning you end up with a car you can't get inspected.
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Isnt that a bit*h. Guess I'll be staying in Florida.
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VVEL cannot safely give you the lift/duration you need which is why you you need the HR heads. It may well be able to do it BUT the investment needed would be significant - easier to go HR head conversion, but that means non-OEM ECU which gives your all the local road/licensing/inspection authority problems.
All the Grand Am engines make 400whp and not one of them retained the VVEL. None of the choices are easy. |
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I was toying with the idea of running the JUN high comp pistons with my stillen supercharger build, I believe they are 12.3:1
although if you are wanting around 400rwhp or so, why not just go a VK56/LSx, either of those with basic breather mods will run that HP all day long as it'll almost be a standard setup, this is if you are going down the route of running a different ECU etc.. |
I have had long long long conversations with 1slow370... That dude knows his sh1t! I have also seen his car dyno'd and ridden in it.
Let me dispel one thing... Do not raise your compression! It will net you very LITTLE power and only hamper your ability to find gas outside of pumping your own barrel of 100+ octane. Things you should do for an easy 450+ whp: 4.2l or 4.3l stroker with Stock compression Pistons Forged rods Dry sump oiling system or a semi dry system if you want A/C Built heads with JUN 282 cams Replace the intake manifold (upper and lower) with one like 1slow370 Run 3" throttle bodies from an 09+ maxima (talk to 1slow370) and a 3" cold intake Run headers 3" exhaust or Tomei Tune by Jon @ Z1 Bam 450+whp This is the route I would go and may end up going with my new Nismo... |
Also make sure the oil passages in the crank are designed for higher rpms. I have seen the GTM ones in person and the method they used was the most direct at higher rpms.
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Yes, he could have easily hit 400whp. The only thing he didn't do was get into the heads. He had a stage 0 long block which meant he only had upgraded rods and Pistons...
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Damn wish he had more funds to complete the project.
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It's not that scary if you have a competent shop. That has been the number one issue with this mod. Most that are installing the cams are not installing them properly and are not following the service manual instructions... 1slow370z installed his himself...
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My main question with these cams, will they be ok with the stock manifold.
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not direct fit on the 370z, you need either an adaptor or a whole new intake manifold. couple years ago I did that adaptor and you can see how much bigger the maxima 09 TB is. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...5d&oe=5547BFF4 the oem intake manifold inlet are about 63-64mm and could be bored a bit bigger but there isnt much meat around and its in plastic. You will be require re-pin the driver plug for the TB. |
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I wouldnt go more than 65mm.... keep it mind, its plastic. I spend 10$ on the 2 adapter that I machined at work and a couple hours. The 370z as you know has 2 TB and they arent interchangeable. the plug arent pinned the same from both side. Like I said if I remember correctly its the driver side that need to be re-pinned like the passenger side. that was my secret mod at the time just before I blew the VVEL and then well it was put on hold. Never tried the setup. |
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Elmo have you checked the Z1Daytona TB? Been waiting for someone to make a review about it. Asked Z1 and the only answer was its top secret with an Lol at the end.
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Yes, its 62mm right? I want someone to make a intake manifold
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