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Originally Posted by Spooler That engine is going to cost more than a FI setup. Mucho more if you want to get near 400whp. It's not worth it. The block

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Old 12-22-2014, 03:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spooler View Post
That engine is going to cost more than a FI setup. Mucho more if you want to get near 400whp. It's not worth it.
The block im purchasing is only 350 bucks, so that a cheap start to rebuilding the motor. I don't have a horsepower ego, yes lot of cars will be faster than me in the straight I don't care. Im building the car the way I want, that's whats most important
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Elmo370z View Post
The block im purchasing is only 350 bucks, so that a cheap start to rebuilding the motor. I don't have a horsepower ego, yes lot of cars will be faster than me in the straight I don't care. Im building the car the way I want, that's whats most important
Talk to Clark Steppler at Jim Wolf Technology, he has all the specifications for your build at his finger tips, assuming you go down the VVEL excluded route.

To get 400rwhp, you WILL need higher compression and significantly enhanced cam lift and duration as well as a bottom end and oiling system that will remain safe at 8800 to 9000rpm.

Once you raise the compression, you are going to seriously assess your fuel ... with e85 the obvious solution.

JUN cams and retaining VVEL will not cut the mustard - you will get close, but not exceed 400rwhp.

The other issue you will have is the ECU - the OEM ECU is not going to do the job.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The other issue you will have is the ECU - the OEM ECU is not going to do the job.
That is big money right there. I need one for my 1975 280zt. That is in the 3-5000 dollar range depending on what you get. Not including install, tuning, etc.
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:23 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BGTV8 View Post
Talk to Clark Steppler at Jim Wolf Technology, he has all the specifications for your build at his finger tips, assuming you go down the VVEL excluded route.

To get 400rwhp, you WILL need higher compression and significantly enhanced cam lift and duration as well as a bottom end and oiling system that will remain safe at 8800 to 9000rpm.

Once you raise the compression, you are going to seriously assess your fuel ... with e85 the obvious solution.

JUN cams and retaining VVEL will not cut the mustard - you will get close, but not exceed 400rwhp.

The other issue you will have is the ECU - the OEM ECU is not going to do the job.
I eventually plan on purchasing a dry sump to cover the oiling problem. I've been debating on the Hr head conversion or just sticking it out the VVEl heads. I just want to know what is the big difference in the Hr Heads Vs the VVel heads as far reaching the mythical 400 whp. Lack of research? too much of a pain in the *** to deal with? Hr easier to work wit? VVel just plain out to complicated?
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:27 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Ditching the VVEL required you to ditch the stock ECU. You've got to run a standalone. That's the big hurdle for a lot of people. Standalones for this platform are not OBD compatible, meaning you end up with a car you can't get inspected.
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:15 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Isnt that a bit*h. Guess I'll be staying in Florida.
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Old 12-24-2014, 04:24 AM   #22 (permalink)
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VVEL cannot safely give you the lift/duration you need which is why you you need the HR heads. It may well be able to do it BUT the investment needed would be significant - easier to go HR head conversion, but that means non-OEM ECU which gives your all the local road/licensing/inspection authority problems.

All the Grand Am engines make 400whp and not one of them retained the VVEL.

None of the choices are easy.
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:15 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Ditching the VVEL required you to ditch the stock ECU. You've got to run a standalone. That's the big hurdle for a lot of people. Standalones for this platform are not OBD compatible, meaning you end up with a car you can't get inspected.
actually you still need the VHR ECU but it will be in parallel with an HR ECU unless, like you said to go with a standalone.
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:38 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I was toying with the idea of running the JUN high comp pistons with my stillen supercharger build, I believe they are 12.3:1

although if you are wanting around 400rwhp or so, why not just go a VK56/LSx, either of those with basic breather mods will run that HP all day long as it'll almost be a standard setup, this is if you are going down the route of running a different ECU etc..
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Old 12-24-2014, 05:18 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I have had long long long conversations with 1slow370... That dude knows his sh1t! I have also seen his car dyno'd and ridden in it.

Let me dispel one thing... Do not raise your compression! It will net you very LITTLE power and only hamper your ability to find gas outside of pumping your own barrel of 100+ octane.

Things you should do for an easy 450+ whp:
4.2l or 4.3l stroker with
Stock compression Pistons
Forged rods
Dry sump oiling system or a semi dry system if you want A/C
Built heads with JUN 282 cams
Replace the intake manifold (upper and lower) with one like 1slow370
Run 3" throttle bodies from an 09+ maxima (talk to 1slow370) and a 3" cold intake
Run headers
3" exhaust or Tomei

Tune by Jon @ Z1

Bam 450+whp

This is the route I would go and may end up going with my new Nismo...
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Old 12-24-2014, 05:21 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Also make sure the oil passages in the crank are designed for higher rpms. I have seen the GTM ones in person and the method they used was the most direct at higher rpms.
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:15 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mikey1600 View Post
I was toying with the idea of running the JUN high comp pistons with my stillen supercharger build, I believe they are 12.3:1

although if you are wanting around 400rwhp or so, why not just go a VK56/LSx, either of those with basic breather mods will run that HP all day long as it'll almost be a standard setup, this is if you are going down the route of running a different ECU etc..
I don't want to deal with all the headache with swapping motors, plus I want to do with the original motor.
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:17 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bullitt5897 View Post
I have had long long long conversations with 1slow370... That dude knows his sh1t! I have also seen his car dyno'd and ridden in it.

Let me dispel one thing... Do not raise your compression! It will net you very LITTLE power and only hamper your ability to find gas outside of pumping your own barrel of 100+ octane.

Things you should do for an easy 450+ whp:
4.2l or 4.3l stroker with
Stock compression Pistons
Forged rods
Dry sump oiling system or a semi dry system if you want A/C
Built heads with JUN 282 cams
Replace the intake manifold (upper and lower) with one like 1slow370
Run 3" throttle bodies from an 09+ maxima (talk to 1slow370) and a 3" cold intake
Run headers
3" exhaust or Tomei

Tune by Jon @ Z1

Bam 450+whp

This is the route I would go and may end up going with my new Nismo...
What do you think he could of gotten out of that motor? think he could of made 400 whp reliable?
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Yes, he could have easily hit 400whp. The only thing he didn't do was get into the heads. He had a stage 0 long block which meant he only had upgraded rods and Pistons...
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:47 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Damn wish he had more funds to complete the project.
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