7 Speed Auto Trans Fluid Change

jchammond

Yep; Genesis has it, on hot days it doesn't take long to get Trans. Temp up to ck degrees...I see optimal 104* with a range of 95-113* .. So if it's over 95 outside & your car is heat soaked/ you're practically there....I may be wrong/ but I thought I seen 2 different temperature sensors on genesis tool? But no problems with mine so far.


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BoneZ

<-------Very interested in rolling my own here if I can. I thought you HAD to take it to the dealer for some reason. It would be a great $$$ savings if I didn't.

jchammond

you can do it!

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BoneZ

So just like my manuals (remember this is my first auto) you are filled properly when it drains from the overflow hole?

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Tractionless

Thanks Joby (jchammond) for the laymans instructions and help via PM.

After performing the drain/fill procedure I just wanted to add a couple of notes.

1. When topping off let the car run so all of the fluid is not in the pan. I overfilled (while running), when the fluid stops pouring out of the fill plug between (100-113) pan temp. (I used a Harbor Freight Infrared Thermometer) and just begins to drip reinstall the fill plug.

2. I initially drained just 4 qts. so I added back 4 qts. during the flush and fill steps; however, for the final fill with the engine running at temp. (see above) the trans. wound up holding 5.5 qts. I therefore, recommend purchasing 4 gallons of fluid or 3 gallons plus a couple of extra qts. It's more price conscientious to just purchase the full 4 gallons though.

3. The OE drain plug crush washer is thin and after the 2nd flush and fill it looked to be leaking. I found HELP! (brand) pn# 66250 crush washer assortment contains a size that will screw onto the OE drain plug while holding it with pliers and turning the plug with the 19mm socket. Do this off of the car and make sure it's seated before installing the plug. The OE plug/washer assembly is a tight fit and the washer is actually stepped (first I've seen) to grab the threads so I wanted to make sure I had the correct contact to insure no leaks.

4. I couldn't find a crush washer for the OE fill plug and neither could the dealer. The reason the manual says to change the entire plug as the plug/washer are sold together as a unit. They're $3, so for peace of mind and for how many times you're going to be taking the fill plug in and out, I'd have one at the ready.

5. If you're going to use Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc. be sure to get the bottle that says "full synthetic" (in white) under the Dex/Merc. label on the front of the bottle 1/3 down. From what I found on Valvoline's website the "for 75,000 mile" designation in the same space is NOT Nissan Matic S compliant!!!

Felix 808

The problem with using an IR gun is that you are measuring surface temp, not fluid temp which can be 20-40 degs off. The best way to do it is to install a temp gauge. Then you can monitor the heat cycle of the fluid & know when you should be replacing it.

$.02

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BoneZ

I'd love to do this.

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Tractionless

It's safe to say the fluid in the pan is transferring heat to the outside surface that the IR is reading. I watched the temp. go up as the car heated up on ramps, sitting level. I'm much more comfortable in this method than the aforementioned "back of hand on the pan" for guesstimating temp.

After all is said and done the transmission is shifting much better most likely due to being 1.5 qts. low upon drain and the fluid having 6 yrs. and 76k miles on it. My next change will be in 25k miles.

jchammond

i used a Genisys on mine...but will be installing a temp gauge in the near future

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jchammond

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1455706970.537801.jpg
This is the fluid I used;
Meets Nissan/Infinity spec D,J,K & S


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CyFi6

Just wanted to show an alternate way to fill the 7AT trans which I found to be a lot easier and less messy. There is a metal cap over what would normally be a dipstick on the right side of the trans that you can use as a fill port.

I bought some 5/8OD nylon tube from Lowes and a funnel.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the cap in place and fit the tube into the opening from the engine bay. The 5/8OD tube is the perfect size.

Start the car up and move through the gears til you are at 104F temp on the transmission pan/fluid temp. Put it in park and leave the engine running. Remove the fill plug (make sure drain plug is installed) and place a catch pan under it. Add fluid through the funnel.

Once the trans is full it will start to come out of the fill plug and drain into the pan. At this point you can reinstall the fill plug and torque to 9 ft lbs.

Let the car cool and reinstall the "dipstick" cap.

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jchammond

You can actually put a dipstick in that hole; another form member has a setup.....seems like it’s “Tractionless” that put a kit together.
Or get a stubby dipstick tube & dipstick

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Tractionless

I cannot take ownership of the dipstick installation as it came from a Q forum and was then posted here by another member. I did the installation; however, with great success. Much easier checking the fluid level as well as refills through the dipstick tube that installs in lieu of the referenced OE plate.

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VR4NIN

Oil professional over 32 years. I insist on tranny fluid that's changed. 60k especially if even street raced. I'm just now reading some threads on the subject. I blended all types of oils for automotive and industrial as well. ATF has a super low pour point & is still subject to breakdown and obtaining oxidation, moisture, and other contaminates. Engine oil must be changed and I do mine every 5k miles regardless. Commented from my phone so hope this makes a bit of sense .
I seen many oils in the lab and rarely after high miles or run conditions do they meet specs for viscosity, color, and more. Preventative maintenance is a must for me. It would be nice to take a sample out of the transmission so I could take it to a lab for further analysis. See the before and after results.

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